Take one Triangle Speed Shop (TSS) 3V/GT500 Oil Pump Assembly with Billet Gears and add a Billet Backing Plate from a 2013 SVT Oil Pump and you have the ultimate 3V pump.
Firstly, I credit Paul, “One Eyed Willy” for the pioneer research on the SVT Oil Pump. Thanks Paul!
Originally 3V oil pump failures were attributed to the gears, as a solution many builds have gone with TSS or MMR billet replacement gears. I purchased a Triangle Speed Shop (TSS) pump with Billet Gears for my build. However, for the 2013 5.8L SVT motors Ford came out with an Oil Pump # DR3Z-6600-A that has a Billet Backing Plate. The Billet Backing Plate weighs in at just less than 12 oz. while the OEM cast plate is a little over 3 oz. (Paul thanks for the measurements!) Obviously the billet backing plate will flex significantly less than a light weight cast plate. Was flex in the OEM cast backing plate the reason the gears grenade? Maybe, but going with both billet gears and a billet backing plate in a built motor is relatively cheap insurance.
This DYI takes you through the simple process of replacing the cast backing plate with a billet backing plate.
Parts:
1. TSS 3V/GT500 Oil Pump Assembly with Billet Gears
2. 2013 Shelby SVT Oil Pump, part number DR3Z-6600-A
Tools and Supplies:
1. T30 Bit
2. 3/8” Ratchet
3. 3/8” Torque Wrench (that measures in in-lbs)
4. High Strength Red Thread Locker
5. Refreshments of you choice
Build:
1. Oil pumps before modification, 2013 SVT Pump on the top and TSS Pump on the bottom – from the back with covers on:
2. Using a T30 Bit and 3/8” Ratchet remove the 8 screws securing the backing plate on both pumps. Billet backing plate from SVT pump on the left and cast backing plate from TSS pump on the right – covers off:
3. TSS Billet Gears exposed. Carefully remove any residue of Thread Locker from the threads and the cap screws:
4. Apply High Strength Thread Locker to the 8 cap screws, place the billet backing plate on the TSS pump, install the screws and tighten to 89 in-lbs with a T30 Bit in a crisscross pattern from the center out.
5. Viola you now have the ultimate 3V oil pump for you build:
Firstly, I credit Paul, “One Eyed Willy” for the pioneer research on the SVT Oil Pump. Thanks Paul!
Originally 3V oil pump failures were attributed to the gears, as a solution many builds have gone with TSS or MMR billet replacement gears. I purchased a Triangle Speed Shop (TSS) pump with Billet Gears for my build. However, for the 2013 5.8L SVT motors Ford came out with an Oil Pump # DR3Z-6600-A that has a Billet Backing Plate. The Billet Backing Plate weighs in at just less than 12 oz. while the OEM cast plate is a little over 3 oz. (Paul thanks for the measurements!) Obviously the billet backing plate will flex significantly less than a light weight cast plate. Was flex in the OEM cast backing plate the reason the gears grenade? Maybe, but going with both billet gears and a billet backing plate in a built motor is relatively cheap insurance.
This DYI takes you through the simple process of replacing the cast backing plate with a billet backing plate.
Parts:
1. TSS 3V/GT500 Oil Pump Assembly with Billet Gears
2. 2013 Shelby SVT Oil Pump, part number DR3Z-6600-A
Tools and Supplies:
1. T30 Bit
2. 3/8” Ratchet
3. 3/8” Torque Wrench (that measures in in-lbs)
4. High Strength Red Thread Locker
5. Refreshments of you choice
Build:
1. Oil pumps before modification, 2013 SVT Pump on the top and TSS Pump on the bottom – from the back with covers on:
2. Using a T30 Bit and 3/8” Ratchet remove the 8 screws securing the backing plate on both pumps. Billet backing plate from SVT pump on the left and cast backing plate from TSS pump on the right – covers off:
3. TSS Billet Gears exposed. Carefully remove any residue of Thread Locker from the threads and the cap screws:
4. Apply High Strength Thread Locker to the 8 cap screws, place the billet backing plate on the TSS pump, install the screws and tighten to 89 in-lbs with a T30 Bit in a crisscross pattern from the center out.
5. Viola you now have the ultimate 3V oil pump for you build: