Fayes 2 Watts Link... Setup?

[AutoXRacer]

Fays 2 Watts Link... Setup?

Are any of you guys experts on the Fays Watts Link?

I had mine setup, but got some rear axle work done and now my Watts Link is all whacked!!

I have to basically start over and reset it.

What is the best technique to properly set it up?
What is the easiest/best way to center the rear axle?

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am super frustrated with this work. I had to walk away last night as I was ready to burn the car... LOL

Thanks!!

 

[Vorshlag-Fair]

It might help your online searches if you spelled the company name correctly.

http://www.fays2.net/fays2_watts_link_22_.html

There is tech and a phone number on that page for the manufacturer. They should be able to help.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Yeah, I've read the installation guide several times. I was hoping that someone with first hand experience had a better way...simpler steps to setting it up.

Its already installed on the car, I just need to reset it.

 

[Roadracer350]

You could always sell it and get a Whiteline unit. Easier install and easier to set up!

 

[AutoXRacer]

You could always sell it and get a Whiteline unit. Easier install and easier to set up!

How so? I know, everyone is jumping on that one!!

 

[Whiskey11]

Yeah, I've read the installation guide several times. I was hoping that someone with first hand experience had a better way...simpler steps to setting it up.

Its already installed on the car, I just need to reset it.

Do you have an angle finder?

First thing I do is back the car up onto ramps. The guide says to install it with a drive on lift but to be honest it doesn't really matter how much weight is on it just that the weight is equally distributed side to side. From there I set the angle of the arms using an angle finder. I set the pivot bolt to the center position then set the arms level. Tighten the bolts for the axle clamps and the center pivot bolt. Check the arm lengths by adjusting the "pre load" on one of the arms by loosening the jam nuts, rotate the arm until it rotates freely then tighten the jam nuts on that arm.

Once done with that, drive the car off the ramp and check the side to side location of the axle. To adjust, move the axle clamps the opposite direction the axle needs to go. If you need the axle to go to the passenger side, move the clamps to the driver side about HALF the distance you need to move the axle to the passenger side. Repeat as necessary to center the axle.

Double check angles. Once you've done that and all is good with the angles you can move the pivot bolt pretty much anywhere on the Watts link and the arms will remain in the correct orientation to allow the unit to work without bind.

Bonus: Have someone close to your weight sit in the driver's seat to remove any change in angle associated with driver weight.

 

[Roadracer350]

How so? I know, everyone is jumping on that one!!

I'm just messing with you bro. Personally I look at both of them and see that the Whiteline is TONS easier to install and set up but the Fays unit has a little more adjustable as far as roll center is concerned. Most people isn't going to care or notice unless you are all out racing. I personally went with the Whiteline unit because of the ease of installation and ease of adjustability. Of course this is just my opinion..

 

[AutoXRacer]

I like easy bolt-on and forget...

 

[Kobie]

Do you have an angle finder?

First thing I do is back the car up onto ramps. The guide says to install it with a drive on lift but to be honest it doesn't really matter how much weight is on it just that the weight is equally distributed side to side. From there I set the angle of the arms using an angle finder. I set the pivot bolt to the center position then set the arms level. Tighten the bolts for the axle clamps and the center pivot bolt. Check the arm lengths by adjusting the "pre load" on one of the arms by loosening the jam nuts, rotate the arm until it rotates freely then tighten the jam nuts on that arm.

Once done with that, drive the car off the ramp and check the side to side location of the axle. To adjust, move the axle clamps the opposite direction the axle needs to go. If you need the axle to go to the passenger side, move the clamps to the driver side about HALF the distance you need to move the axle to the passenger side. Repeat as necessary to center the axle.

Double check angles. Once you've done that and all is good with the angles you can move the pivot bolt pretty much anywhere on the Watts link and the arms will remain in the correct orientation to allow the unit to work without bind.

Bonus: Have someone close to your weight sit in the driver's seat to remove any change in angle associated with driver weight.

My understanding is that if you move the pivot up or down you would need to rotate the axle clamps to maintain the level of the horizontal bars for bind free operation.

 

[Norm Peterson]

The bars do not have to be horizontal at the car's static ride height, though they should be horizontal at some point within the rear suspension's range of ride height. Preferably near the middle of that range of ride height.

What the Watts link setting is really about is for the two arms to have equal and opposite slopes. Both being horizontal is a unique case of this, and one that's perhaps easier to measure.


Norm

 

[AutoXRacer]

I am seriously considering going back to a panhard bar setup... sigh

I have had the hardest time taking the watts link apart to reset the rods to equal length. My latest issue has been removing the pivot bolt that goes through the frame and propeller. I have tried breaker bars and torque guns with no success.

Not sure what the hell the shop did to this bolt. sigh
Tonight, I will be cutting the damn thing off. uh...

Thanks for all the help guys. I think the setup is not so bad and most of my frustration with the watts link has been the removal to set everything back to nominal.

If I want a very neutral/balanced rear, do you recommend the lowest setting on the 3-hole frame? I'd been reading a few posts where many users prefer the lowest setting saying it is very neutral.

 

[Roadracer350]

I solved your problem for you.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KDT916

 

[AutoXRacer]

Yeah, tell me about it. This kit came out a few months after I bought my Fays... sigh

I already spent close to $50K rebuilding my car... I am done spending anymore.
I know, I know, whats another $1K...??? lol

Seriously, I'm burnt out wrenching and I can't bleed anymore money.

That Whiteline setup would have been ideal.

If I can't get the Fays kit restored (by removing the pivot bolt) I am seriously just going with a BMR Panhard bar setup...then revisit this whole watts link at a later date.

I just want to drive my damn car... lol

 

[Roadracer350]

Try some Aerokroil to get the bolt to loosen up or PB Blaster. That may help

 

[Norm Peterson]

If it was red-locktited, heat. Don't think I'd guarantee full bolt strength afterward, though.


Norm

 

[AutoXRacer]

I emailed Jim to send me a full set of bolts and o-rings. lol

I haven't tried heat though... Hmm.
I have had it soaking in PB for two days now.

 

[Roadracer350]

Do you have one of those little propane torches? I would try to break it loose again but if it don't then torch it off and replace it.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Unfortunately, I don't have that repertoire of tools.

It will be either the cut-off wheel or dremel with cut-off wheels.
I have a feeling none of it will work considering how beefy that bolt is. lol

 

[Roadracer350]

Unfortunately, I don't have that repertoire of tools.

It will be either the cut-off wheel or dremel with cut-off wheels.
I have a feeling none of it will work considering how beefy that bolt is. lol

I doubt the Dremel wheels will stand up to the task. Those torches are like 20-30 bucks at Lowes or Home Depot. You may be able to get them at Wally World. If you have access to an electric or air impact that will work also.

 

[Vorshlag-Fair]

If it was red-locktited, heat. Don't think I'd guarantee full bolt strength afterward, though.

Norm

To break the bond of a chemical bonding agent like Loctite all you need is this:

$20 at Home Depot...