FINALLY!!!
- Thread starter Hawgman
- Start date
I am going to go with the Spec clutch.
Did your warranty cover it?
Good to hear. Where in Texas are you?
Nice numbers, Hawg. I wonder what your 0-60 mph time is on the street.
A couple more questions:
A couple more questions:
- Is your motor built, or are you running stock internals?
- Why does everyone refer to the Saleen SC an "the old fart's" SC...isn't it a twin screw type like the Whipple? If anything, the Roush Roots-type would be the "old fashioned" version...
East of you.. Plano area.
On the street? No idea. I normally don't heat the tires and lower the pressure on the street
- Stock motor. Been running basically this same power for well over a year. Had the SC for over 2 years now.
- It's mostly an inside joke/friendly rivalry among internet friends. Kenne Bell Vs. Saleen thing. Basically, the Saleen is a 2.3L blower. When it came out all everyone heard was how the KB was going to be superior. Yet KB has had to increase their displacement twice before getting the same power with the same PSI.
Holy F'n shit----I have read through all 3 of Hawgmans threads and I may be experiencing the same problem.
Problem is getting progressively worse. Start up the car, car will idle smooth, but then after a minute or so, the a/f will go to 16 then 17, then off the scale for a few seconds, then pop back to 14-15 at idle. Drive around in stop and go traffic and at totally random times, same thing, will accelerate lightly and the a/f will go off the scale lean for a few seconds, then pop back to 13-14 and I accelerate normally. I already replaced the o2 sensors and checked for vacum leaks. Unlike Docs problem, mine will also do that at WOT, a/f will go to 11.X, then go all the way lean 17+ and I will have to lift. After lifting, it will continue to read off the scale lean for a few seconds, then pop back to 14-15 a/f. At a steady cruise its fine. Based on the other threads I read, I may need a new PCM.
Doc, this sounds like the problem you had, right??
Problem is getting progressively worse. Start up the car, car will idle smooth, but then after a minute or so, the a/f will go to 16 then 17, then off the scale for a few seconds, then pop back to 14-15 at idle. Drive around in stop and go traffic and at totally random times, same thing, will accelerate lightly and the a/f will go off the scale lean for a few seconds, then pop back to 13-14 and I accelerate normally. I already replaced the o2 sensors and checked for vacum leaks. Unlike Docs problem, mine will also do that at WOT, a/f will go to 11.X, then go all the way lean 17+ and I will have to lift. After lifting, it will continue to read off the scale lean for a few seconds, then pop back to 14-15 a/f. At a steady cruise its fine. Based on the other threads I read, I may need a new PCM.
Doc, this sounds like the problem you had, right??
i am having the same problem. i have been chaseing it down with my tuner for a year, i may try a new computer also
Yeah, just like it covered when the Saleen setup lunched my alternator!
I'm getting old, I didn't spot this one!
Mike
Holy F'n shit----I have read through all 3 of Hawgmans threads and I may be experiencing the same problem.
Problem is getting progressively worse. Start up the car, car will idle smooth, but then after a minute or so, the a/f will go to 16 then 17, then off the scale for a few seconds, then pop back to 14-15 at idle. Drive around in stop and go traffic and at totally random times, same thing, will accelerate lightly and the a/f will go off the scale lean for a few seconds, then pop back to 13-14 and I accelerate normally. I already replaced the o2 sensors and checked for vacum leaks. Unlike Docs problem, mine will also do that at WOT, a/f will go to 11.X, then go all the way lean 17+ and I will have to lift. After lifting, it will continue to read off the scale lean for a few seconds, then pop back to 14-15 a/f. At a steady cruise its fine. Based on the other threads I read, I may need a new PCM.
Doc, this sounds like the problem you had, right??
Unfortunately this sound quite a bit like the problem I was having. See if you can get an open loop version of your tune. If so, try that and see if the problem quits (or at least dramatically decreases). Might help in the diagnosis.
I do have one word of advice. Don't screw around with aftermarket companies that offer you a rebuild on your PCM. Just bite the bullet and order a replacement from a dealer. KC over at TMS can probably give you a close to cost deal on one if ya ask. They will order it with the VIN from your car and it will be just as your was from the factory. Only thing that the dealer will need to do is flash the PATS.
If you and 05mustang_kb_charged both have the same issue, these two will make #5 and #6 I have heard of (including mine) that has had this problem. Adam had an issue with one that was doing the same thing also.
Not sure if it makes any difference or not, but the only cars I know of that have seen something like this were supercharged cars. Then again, I doubt if a NA guy would know since most don't run a wideband on a NA car.
Not to jinx anything... but mine has sort of been doing it again. Not nearly to the extreme it was doing it, but I have noticed over the last couple of weeks that it has been leaning out when I let off the gas. If I push the clutch in it doesn't do it. But if I just let off and coast in gear it does. And the length of time it does it depends on how hard I was in the throttle before I let off. The harder I was in it, the longer it leans out when I let off.
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Leaning out when you let off sounds pretty normal - particularly with the way the tune is setup on these things. The fuel really pulls back when you let off the gas. Using the engine to "brake" rather than just letting it idle down will increase this situation.
You can tune that out to a degree, but its generally not a big deal.
I agree. And am pretty used to seeing it do that. Just the last couple of weeks it has been lore than what i was used to seeing. Enough more that I noticed it..... if that makes sense. Probably just gun shy. Delt with that issue for so long that now any little twitch in the a/f I notice.
I hear you - after you blow an expensive part, you hear every rattle and moan of the new one...
I remember the first engine I built myself (after blowing the prior one), I swore I could hear each piston ring grinding up and down the cylinder bores
After a while when it didn't blow up, I relaxed...
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About friggin' time...
I wonder if it is because they have them in the engine compartment next to the radiator and exhaust manifold?
All that heat may be causing premature failures.
I don't know why they don't put the computer inside the car where the environment isn't as harsh??
Mike
All that heat may be causing premature failures.
I don't know why they don't put the computer inside the car where the environment isn't as harsh??
Mike
My guess is some assembly process and/or the wiring length came down to 2 cents in the engine compartment or 3 cents in the pass compartment...
You _should_ be able to get "industrial" parts that can take that sort of heat without issue, but with the numbers of cars we are talking about it is not surprising to see an early revision failing with this frequency...
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