Flywheel Torque

[Red-Candy-Metallic]

I know this topic has been discussed in the 4.6 tech forum, but I didn't find anything specific to the 2011-2014 Mustang GT. I have been looking around quite a bit and pretty much all of the documentation that I can find states that the flywheel bolt torque on the Coyote is 177 lb-in and then an additional 60 degrees of rotation. I even saw this in the Ford Aluminator documentation. LMR has an installation video that references that same value. I am having so much trouble wrapping my head around that, because that's the same as the water pump bolts, which are much smaller and are attaching to aluminum, not forged steel. I know the factory bolts are "Torque to Yield" (TTY) one time use, but still, 177 lb-in is about 15 lb-ft. I believe the pressure plate bolts are torqued around 46 lb-ft and then 60 degrees additional rotation. Has anyone actually done a flywheel and clutch using Ford hardware and torques specs?

My plan is to use a Ford Performance Steel Flywheel and Exedy Stage 1 clutch kit, both SFI 1.1 certified. I was going to buy new flywheel bolts and a pressure plate bolt/dowl kit from Ford, but I am now considering Arp hardware. If you use the Arp brand flywheel bolts (I assume they are higher tensile), they specify 70 lb-ft, which sounds much more appropriate.

 

[JC SSP]

Get the ARP and be done with the bolt issue. Just my .02 cents.

 

[Red-Candy-Metallic]

Get the ARP and be done with the bolt issue. Just my .02 cents.

Thanks for the sage advice!

 

[delroy]

Maybe there's a way to determine how much the 60 degrees "extra" adds to the 15 ft-lbs. (?)
Maybe somebody can answer that. If you have not already done so, I would watch Eric O. at SMA on youtube. He has a video of a clutch installation which is very good. I have done dozens of clutches myself, but I found his videos very interesting. He also has one on rebuilding a rear end which is also very good. He's possibly the best automotive channel on youtube.

 

[Red-Candy-Metallic]

Maybe there's a way to determine how much the 60 degrees "extra" adds to the 15 ft-lbs. (?)
Maybe somebody can answer that. If you have not already done so, I would watch Eric O. at SMA on youtube. He has a video of a clutch installation which is very good. I have done dozens of clutches myself, but I found his videos very interesting. He also has one on rebuilding a rear end which is also very good. He's possibly the best automotive channel on youtube.

Thanks, Delroy!

 

[diambo4life]

Maybe there's a way to determine how much the 60 degrees "extra" adds to the 15 ft-lbs. (?)
Maybe somebody can answer that. If you have not already done so, I would watch Eric O. at SMA on youtube. He has a video of a clutch installation which is very good. I have done dozens of clutches myself, but I found his videos very interesting. He also has one on rebuilding a rear end which is also very good. He's possibly the best automotive channel on youtube.

Yes, there's a way. By using an angle torque wrench. I have one. However, it depends on your technique and whether a lubricant is used to produce repeatable consistent results. I just use ARPs in my car.

 

[Red-Candy-Metallic]

I did end up using the Arp flywheel and pressure plate bolts with the ARP assembly lube and blue Loctite. I did some online research and evidently "torque to yield" (TTY) hardware proports to have some benefits over traditional tightening methods. However, the hardware is "one time" use and should be replaced anytime it is removed after being torqued. The tightening process, while not rocket science, is particular. Evidently, there are a number of tools/gauges that support TTY fastening.