fun hard day at the track

[pieperz06]

there are a few legitimate questions in here also


well after my last hpde and 3 hrs on the track in the heat of south Texas i broke some thing besides by tires and breaks.

my fuel gauge in the car will only read full plus about 1/16 of an inch past full i used a lot of gas and it was the first time i had used my tires for more than 3 laps. and on the way home it would skip from half a tank to empty then back to half a tank then i filled it drove 3 hrs home and it still said it was full. any ideas on what to do.

the other thing is that i am thinking about getting a new set of tires since i blew threw the ones i had. but.....my question is what did you guys dislike about the r888's and how do you think a 295 r888 would compare to a 275 R6 as far as grip and life goes. (make note i mean LIFE of the tire...im looking for a good laping tire that will last more than one event and be better than a true street tire) im addicted to stickey tires and only took my street tires out to learn the track and then i just had to put them on it is to much fun with them. i was using a tire that was very similar to a R6 so that is why i was wondering how it would compare because it was a 275

other thing is i was having a lot of problems with a fast sweeper and i kept getting lots of under-steer or i wasn't carrying enough speed do you think it was more of driver error. i was feeling really good on every other corner so im thinking it was me more than the car.

also want to say thanks to Sam strano his sway-bar made all the difference i had so much bite on turn in's it was unbelievable.

this was also my first event with my new seats and that also made a big difference with not being tired after the event and the car felt much lighter.

one thing this got me thinking tho is if i wanted to mount a cool suit cooler and relocate my battery would the best place for both of them be in the trunk or would it make since to put the cooler in the car behind the passenger seat and the battery in the trunk.

also at what point is it a bad thing that you have to little weight taken out of the front of the car (aka lots of weight out of the back)

thanks and sorry for how scattered this sounds

im also sighed up for my first nasa event and the guy that does a lot of TT's with them says i will have no problem getting to that point in one weekend so im pretty pumped about that

also what do yall use for lap timeing and video recording

one more thing....i been wanting to get tow hooks put on my car but i don't know that is some thing i would want to do my self any ideas on what kind of shop may do that

 

[Philostang]

Wow...so cool to see someone so manic after a track event.

So here's a few equally random responses:

1. I've had similar fuel gauge weirdness, but mine always returned to normal after the 5th or 6th time I started the car.

2. I too considered relocating the battery (want to offset the extra weight of an aftermarket hood). A wise man (*cough*DAVE*cough*) beckoned I just consider the real savings/advantage. Sure, you move 35 lbs to the back...and then add a chunk back in 15' of 2 ga wire, have to safely route it, add cut off switch (keep in mind you need an external cut-off switch running a trunk mount batt. to pass tech for some organizations). Definitely do-able, make no mistake. Or you can install a Braille lightweight battery and save 20 lbs right there, no extra wiring, no additional install trouble. In the end, for me at least, I think I'll just drop the weight up front and dispense with the rest.

3. As far as reducing too much weight up front on our cars...

4. From what I've heard, the current R-comp longevity king is Nitto NT01.

5. Video: Hero Cam HD

6. Data: MaxQData Quantum (when the f'n thing works right)

Have fun at the NASA event!

Best,
-j

 

[ct07gt]

I am sure you will get information from people a lot more experienced than me, but if you are looking for a track tire, avoid the R888. It has a reputation for getting greasy when used on a heavy car or when overdriven, and they do not recover well from getting overheated. The RA1 is supposed to be a better tire, but if you are looking for a long lasting R compound I have heard the BF Goodrich R1 is a good choice. The Nitto NT01 will have less grip but is also known for a relatively long lifespan. Unfortunately you have spoiled yourself by starting on something comparable to the R6, hard to go back to something with less grip.

 

[TheKurgan]

I am sure you will get information from people a lot more experienced than me, but if you are looking for a track tire, avoid the R888. It has a reputation for getting greasy when used on a heavy car or when overdriven, and they do not recover well from getting overheated. The RA1 is supposed to be a better tire, but if you are looking for a long lasting R compound I have heard the BF Goodrich R1 is a good choice. The Nitto NT01 will have less grip but is also known for a relatively long lifespan. Unfortunately you have spoiled yourself by starting on something comparable to the R6, hard to go back to something with less grip.

I agree I have seen the R888 only takes about 1 event and it is heat-cycled bad. I've run the BFG R1 at 2 events so far and there is no visible sign of wear. The depth indicators still look like they did when I bought them brand new(visible check). Also the R1's are already shaved so no need to do anything but put them on and race.

I even drag raced, did burn outs on them at Tulsa a couple weekends ago. Love em so far.

 

[pieperz06]

2. I too considered relocating the battery (want to offset the extra weight of an aftermarket hood). A wise man (*cough*DAVE*cough*) beckoned I just consider the real savings/advantage. Sure, you move 35 lbs to the back...and then add a chunk back in 15' of 2 ga wire, have to safely route it, add cut off switch (keep in mind you need an external cut-off switch running a trunk mount batt. to pass tech for some organizations). Definitely do-able, make no mistake. Or you can install a Braille lightweight battery and save 20 lbs right there, no extra wiring, no additional install trouble. In the end, for me at least, I think I'll just drop the weight up front and dispense with the rest.

3. As far as reducing too much weight up front on our cars...

i was thinking of that but i dont want to spend alot of money on a battery and then have it die on me because i DD the car. i was under the impression it would be harder for it to crank over and it would not last as long. but i may be wrong im not sure.

and i was talking about taken to much weight out of the rear.

good info to know about the r888 and i have a feeling im going to end up with the r6 in a 295

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Since you're in Texas, not up in the snow belt, I would bet that a Braille or Oddysy battery would work out for you... Much smaller, much lighter, good cranking power, but a little short on reserve for cold weather. Cold cuts battery efficiency dramatically, and if you're close to the margin, the temp drop may be enough to result in a no-crank. Given where you're from (35*F is frickin' cold, right? HA! Try 35*F below...), I don't think you'll have issues.

As for lightening the rear, yeah, I think that it's possible to skew the weight balance too far forward, and wind up with all the issues that the Fox and SN95 platforms had with 58% front distribution. I'm seriously all about weight savings, but I think it needs to be approached in a balanced format. These cars are 51%-ish right from the factory. Drop a little more up front, and it makes for happy times. THEN drop a little more, front AND rear, and you are golden...

The word on the R888 is that heavier cars do not respond well to them. Miatas and Spec944s seem to do well on them, but not the AI and CMC cars. This is, of course, compared to the Toyo RA-1, and the word on them is: "They suck. But, they suck forever." I get a dozen heat cycles out of a set of 275/35-18 R6 tires, but I see AI guys getting half a SEASON out of a set of RA-1's. They Toyo RA-1, and I guess the Nitto NT-01, are kind of like "Baby's first R-comps," if you follow. They have nowhere NEAR the grip that the top-tier tires do, like the BFG R1, Hoosier R6/A6, or Hankook C90/C91, but they will wear considerably longer. If I didn't win tires on occasion, I wouldn't be able to afford to keep running Hoosiers, but they are the gold-standard R-compound.

Camera: JVC 1080 camcorder (memory card type)

Data: Traqmate

I think that once you run with NASA, you'll be hooked. From what I hear, the Texas boys know how to throw a PARTY at the track!

 

[pieperz06]

which Braille battery would i want

 

[bigmachano]

what track did you go to? i'm getting excited to get back home!!!

 

[Philostang]

I'm looking at two batteries from Braille (compare to stock batt. weight of 37 lbs).
I'm considering one of these:
- B14115: $154 (shipped from Summit) 11.5 lbs
- B2015: $164 (shipped from Summit) 15 lbs

I'm leaning towards the later. You only take a 3.5 lbs hit over it's smaller brother, but you get a good deal more cranking power (forget the exact figs). Either way you get 22-25 lbs of weight off the car.

Also, I feel your concern about DD use. I'm out of that game now, but I still think about such things. My thought was actually that my real interest in this is as a performance mod (driving, not starting), so I might just swap out the battery at the track or the night before to run it on track only. I still have the OEM battery, so why not use it for DD use? Do I really care about it off track? (Hint: My answer is "no.")

Best,
-j

 

[Stangmeister9]

Pieper, the one thing that you failed to state to the drivers who have experience with the R888's is that Cameron (track name)is very very hard on tires. its an old airport that is 95% concrete and grooved at that for traction when planes land. Cameron works great with a 200 tread tire and awesome with non-dot tires but it eats them form snack. unless your are planning only hhr or nasa events in texas then allow then to post, but i just not sure how many of them are driving on concrete tracks.

 

[TheKurgan]

I'm looking at two batteries from Braille (compare to stock batt. weight of 37 lbs).
I'm considering one of these:
- B14115: $154 (shipped from Summit) 11.5 lbs
- B2015: $164 (shipped from Summit) 15 lbs

I'm leaning towards the later. You only take a 3.5 lbs hit over it's smaller brother, but you get a good deal more cranking power (forget the exact figs). Either way you get 22-25 lbs of weight off the car.

Also, I feel your concern about DD use. I'm out of that game now, but I still think about such things. My thought was actually that my real interest in this is as a performance mod (driving, not starting), so I might just swap out the battery at the track or the night before to run it on track only. I still have the OEM battery, so why not use it for DD use? Do I really care about it off track? (Hint: My answer is "no.")

Best,
-j

Go with the lighter one then just carry a jump box if you need the extra cranking power.

 

[Vapour Trails]

According to the "how much does it weigh" thread, the OEM battery is 31 pounds, so at most you will save 20 lbs with a swap to the lightest battery available (reducing the weight by a massive 0.57%). IMO not a great value for $150.

There just doesn't seem to be anyway to save significant weight from the front end, without spending a lot of money in the process.

This sounds strange but the greatest impact would likely be had from having the driver go on a diet.

 

[pieperz06]

According to the "how much does it weigh" thread, the OEM battery is 31 pounds, so at most you will save 20 lbs with a swap to the lightest battery available (reducing the weight by a massive 0.57%). IMO not a great value for $150.

There just doesn't seem to be anyway to save significant weight from the front end, without spending a lot of money in the process.

This sounds strange but the greatest impact would likely be had from having the driver go on a diet.

lol im already skin and bones i weigh 150 pounds and im like 6' tall

and yah i was thinking the same thing for the battery that is y i was thinking it would help more to distribute the weight

 

[pieperz06]

Pieper, the one thing that you failed to state to the drivers who have experience with the R888's is that Cameron (track name)is very very hard on tires. its an old airport that is 95% concrete and grooved at that for traction when planes land. Cameron works great with a 200 tread tire and awesome with non-dot tires but it eats them form snack. unless your are planning only hhr or nasa events in texas then allow then to post, but i just not sure how many of them are driving on concrete tracks.

yah i didn't think of that but i think it is going to be a combo of the two.

i dont have an opinion one way or another yet on the r888's but the f360 runs them at CC and i seemed to be faster but im not sure which driver it was

 

[Stangmeister9]

that f360 has about 3 events under him and a car that is better balanced out of the box, so he should be getting faster. he must have had a hard time when he was given the fatal "passing flag" when he would refuse to let me by. we will see when i mount those Hoosiers for the Sept event. going to be a good one!

 

[pieperz06]

that f360 has about 3 events under him and a car that is better balanced out of the box, so he should be getting faster. he must have had a hard time when he was given the fatal "passing flag" when he would refuse to let me by. we will see when i mount those Hoosiers for the Sept event. going to be a good one!

o you decided to got the r6's not the continental's

 

[Stangmeister9]

asked for the conti's, not in stock. so they sent me the hossiers no complaints. will try my hardest to go to the july event. just depend on what this damn hurrican (alex)does to my house. even if i make the july event will still be on street tires. so ill take my ass beaten (from u)like a man.

 

[pieperz06]

asked for the conti's, not in stock. so they sent me the hossiers no complaints. will try my hardest to go to the july event. just depend on what this damn hurrican (alex)does to my house. even if i make the july event will still be on street tires. so ill take my ass beaten (from u)like a man.

it will be ok im going to get a harder compound so in sept you will be beating my ass

 

[Bizzyb0nes]

My fuel gauge did that when new, it wont throgh a CEL but if you pull codes..I bet it tells you one of your sending units have a code. The cars have 2 sending units since the tank straddles the driveshaft, the computer avg's the 2 and puts it on your gauge. My threw a code for the passenger side one, it got replaced, same problem...low and behold it was the other sending unit with the problem.

 

[pieperz06]

so am i going to hurt any thing by not fixing it