Getting frustrated with my short times.

[thump_rrr]

When I first installed the blower I was at 10lbs of boost riding on 26x11.5-17" M/T E.T.Streets on factory rims.
My 60' times generally ran between 1.58 and 1.63 dpending on the condition of the track.

I then switched to a set of Weld XP 15x9 rims and a set of M/T E.T. Street Radials in 275/50-15" which netted me a best 60' of 1.52.
The problem with this setup was that I was running out of gear around the 1000' mark once I increased the boost to 12psi. The reason I didn't go back to the radials was that I could only get around 65 runs out of a set while I can get at least 2 times as many on the bias ply.

Last year I switched to a 28" M/T E.T. Drag which is when my problems started. By switching to the 28" tires I began to rub the fenders unless the rear shocks were set to full firm. My 60' times were all over the place and on a good day with perfect track prep I could only manage a best 60' of 1.64.

This spring I purchased a set of 15x10 Bogarts with the proper offset so that I could once again soften up my rear suspension for better weight transfer. I also installed the BMR Swaybar relocation brackets to clear the Bogarts and I switched from a set of BMR LCA Relocation Brackets to a set of Steeda ones for more adjustability. My 60' times are still all over the place with a one time best of 1.68 and are usually in the 1.77 range.

My suspension setup has not changed except for the relo brackets.
Can a set of tires get too old?
Should I be looking for something else?
The pinion angle is set at -2º

 

[Blazing Saddles]

Most 60' time inconsistancy can be directly attributed to the sidewall stiffness. As a slick gets older it's usually the sidewall that wears out first. The tire will distort like hell. The reason your 60's dropped when you went from a bias ply ET Street to a ET Street Radial tire was because there was less distortion in the tire.

Heavy cars like ours (over 3000lbs) like a stiffer sidewall. The ET Drag slicks have 2 different sidewall stiffnesses. An S at the end of the part number denotes the slick as a stiff sidewall. If part number of your slicks does not have the S at the end that could very well be your problem.

 

[PNR Welding]

Go with the Hoosier Quick time pro. Bias ply and DOT. Far better tire than a MT ET street.

 

[MLC40]

When I first installed the blower I was at 10lbs of boost riding on 26x11.5-17" M/T E.T.Streets on factory rims.
My 60' times generally ran between 1.58 and 1.63 dpending on the condition of the track.

I then switched to a set of Weld XP 15x9 rims and a set of M/T E.T. Street Radials in 275/50-15" which netted me a best 60' of 1.52.
The problem with this setup was that I was running out of gear around the 1000' mark once I increased the boost to 12psi. The reason I didn't go back to the radials was that I could only get around 65 runs out of a set while I can get at least 2 times as many on the bias ply.

Last year I switched to a 28" M/T E.T. Drag which is when my problems started. By switching to the 28" tires I began to rub the fenders unless the rear shocks were set to full firm. My 60' times were all over the place and on a good day with perfect track prep I could only manage a best 60' of 1.64.

This spring I purchased a set of 15x10 Bogarts with the proper offset so that I could once again soften up my rear suspension for better weight transfer. I also installed the BMR Swaybar relocation brackets to clear the Bogarts and I switched from a set of BMR LCA Relocation Brackets to a set of Steeda ones for more adjustability. My 60' times are still all over the place with a one time best of 1.68 and are usually in the 1.77 range.

My suspension setup has not changed except for the relo brackets.
Can a set of tires get too old?
Should I be looking for something else?
The pinion angle is set at -2º

I know it does not help your problem, but what spring are you running?

 

[thump_rrr]

Go with the Hoosier Quick time pro. Bias ply and DOT. Far better tire than a MT ET street.

I was thinking of going with the 325/50 15" M/T E.T. Street Radial since I don't run skinnies in the front.
The car feels much more stable with radials at all 4 corners.

I know it does not help your problem, but what spring are you running?

I'm running the Steeda Sport Springs.

My setup isn't ideal for drag racing but it has proven itself in the past which is why I'm kicking myself in the head.

I spent quite a bit of time to make the Steeda rear swaybar fit together with the Bogarts and the LCA Relocation brackets and I'm not only no further ahead but actually further back than when I was running a 275/40 17 on stock rims.

 

[GI Joe]

When I first installed the blower I was at 10lbs of boost riding on 26x11.5-17" M/T E.T.Streets on factory rims.
My 60' times generally ran between 1.58 and 1.63 dpending on the condition of the track.

I then switched to a set of Weld XP 15x9 rims and a set of M/T E.T. Street Radials in 275/50-15" which netted me a best 60' of 1.52.
The problem with this setup was that I was running out of gear around the 1000' mark once I increased the boost to 12psi. The reason I didn't go back to the radials was that I could only get around 65 runs out of a set while I can get at least 2 times as many on the bias ply.

Last year I switched to a 28" M/T E.T. Drag which is when my problems started. By switching to the 28" tires I began to rub the fenders unless the rear shocks were set to full firm. My 60' times were all over the place and on a good day with perfect track prep I could only manage a best 60' of 1.64.

This spring I purchased a set of 15x10 Bogarts with the proper offset so that I could once again soften up my rear suspension for better weight transfer. I also installed the BMR Swaybar relocation brackets to clear the Bogarts and I switched from a set of BMR LCA Relocation Brackets to a set of Steeda ones for more adjustability. My 60' times are still all over the place with a one time best of 1.68 and are usually in the 1.77 range.

My suspension setup has not changed except for the relo brackets.
Can a set of tires get too old?
Should I be looking for something else?
The pinion angle is set at -2º

Do you have a video?

 

[thump_rrr]

Do you have a video?

Unfortunately not.

 

[fin1]

Unfortunately not.

Get one. It's a big help in seeing what the car is doing.

 

[Enitalp]

Unfortunately not.

Next time you go to the track PM me i can take video.

And you could do the same for me, my car act very strange too with my new setup.

 

[thump_rrr]

Next time you go to the track PM me i can take video.

And you could do the same for me, my car act very strange too with my new setup.

Thanks Christian,
That would be a great help.
What have you changed on your car?

 

[Enitalp]

Thanks Christian,
That would be a great help.
What have you changed on your car?

Rear QA1
Front QA1 + CoilOver.
BMR K-Member
BMR A-Arm
Meziere H2O
JBA Long Tube Header + H Pipe (went back to stock Catback because of the noise)
One Piece Aluminium DriveShaft + BMR Safety loop
Detroit TrueTrac + Ford Racing Cover

Went to Napi two times. In resume 12.80 12.81 12.84 12.80 12.83 the two days. Max MPH 108, Lowest 105. I have a very consistant slow car ;p

 

[SloSVO]

anyway you can borrow a set of the ET streets?

 

[thump_rrr]

anyway you can borrow a set of the ET streets?

Yes I have a friend with a set of 275/40 17" E.T. Street Radials.
I will be trying them out soon.

 

[US-1]

Can a set of tires get too old?

Yup.

Should I be looking for something else?

Well......since you mentioned it..............

Most 60' time inconsistancy can be directly attributed to the sidewall stiffness. As a slick gets older it's usually the sidewall that wears out first. The tire will distort like hell. The reason your 60's dropped when you went from a bias ply ET Street to a ET Street Radial tire was because there was less distortion in the tire.

Heavy cars like ours (over 3000lbs) like a stiffer sidewall. The ET Drag slicks have 2 different sidewall stiffnesses. An S at the end of the part number denotes the slick as a stiff sidewall. If part number of your slicks does not have the S at the end that could very well be your problem.

TA DA!!!

How old are the tires anyway? An old tire is a problem tire. They will never hook the same way twice. Even if you think the tires have "plenty of runs left in 'em"....once the 60's start getting screwy you know the tire is dead. Toss it. Since you run a standard radial tire in the front you are on the right path with the radial tire in the rear. The extra stiffness, as mentioned above, should help stabilize the initial hook thereby giving you more consistent 60's.