Good Mig Welder?

Mike Mckay

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Flusher, I have the Lincoln Tig 200 machine, which I'm teaching myself to tig 3/16 Aluminum. Old hands, eyes, and the shakes makes it a real challenge. Started stick in the mid 60's and have welded off and on since then. Stick weld alum years ago and figured tig weld alum would be fun. Also learning to mig alum with a Lincoln spool gun. Hoping to replace manufacturing Galv 3/16 steel tube parts, with alum tube, but need to prototype parts first.
 

Tony Conti

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Are you sure that you should purchase this equipment without having a certificate that you have completed welding courses?

If you're talking to me then yes I should still purchase this at some point. I've taken two welding courses and I've also welded a full roll cage into a s10 along with making custom brackets and what not for other little shit. So I think I know what I'm doing.
 

Midlife Crises

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I first learned to gas weld. Then moved to stick. I can’t imagine not being able to stick weld. There are so many alloys and conditions available to work with. Being familiar with gas welding makes TIG easier to pick up and I have had very good results with aluminum and thin steel. TIG can be extremely precise. I have always had trouble seeing the puddle with MIG and for me it just never feels right. Fast and easy for sure. Like others have stated, Miller or Lincoln. 220 volt will give you a good stable arc and 150 to 200 amp AC/DC so you can weld and braze all metals.
Ha, 50 years ago when I began learning to stick weld I turned a 10” piece of 2” angle iron into a 10” piece of 2” bar stock.
 

pass1over

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I got a 110V Hobart unit w/ gas for my initial purchase. My wife bought it for my birthday for me. It was good enough to do sheet metal and most stuff I needed to do on my car. Even welded some thicker stuff than it was recommended for, but it's still there and holding strong!

Recently got a Millermatic 252, dual gas setup, 220V, and the spool gun. I haven't tried anything with aluminum yet, but that things badass, it can melt some serious steel. I am very very happy with it.
 

RED09GT

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I got a 110V Hobart unit w/ gas for my initial purchase. My wife bought it for my birthday for me. It was good enough to do sheet metal and most stuff I needed to do on my car. Even welded some thicker stuff than it was recommended for, but it's still there and holding strong!

Recently got a Millermatic 252, dual gas setup, 220V, and the spool gun. I haven't tried anything with aluminum yet, but that things badass, it can melt some serious steel. I am very very happy with it.
I had a Hobart handler 140 and it served me well. I had a CO2 tank with it and I did some custom exhausts and welded in torque box reinforcements on a fox body.
I learned to weld reading a book branded by west coast choppers and let's face it, it is not rocket science.
 

Juice

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Welding is an art. lol I have seen pros make great welds with low end welders. And we have all seen booger welds. ;)
 

RED09GT

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Are you sure that you should purchase this equipment without having a certificate that you have completed welding courses? After all, without it, you will not be able to provide services, receiving money for it. Therefore, you should definitely deal with this issue if you want to provide professional assistance. You will need $500 for a complete setup, including safety equipment. But if you want to do this just for yourself on the territory of your home, then you don't have to. Think about it and make the right decision for yourself.
What gave you the impression that he is looking to go into the welding business?
 

sajesak

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OP,

If you want to kick it up a knotch, I would say definitely go for the 220 volt machine IF you think you will always have a 220VAC outlet where you will need it. It totally blows when you don't have power and can't use your machine.

Even with the 110VAC units, you can weld anything you would do at home, it just comes down to technique.

As Racer47 stated, you can resell it. In fact, i searched a little on OfferUp. For example, the first machine shop I worked in had a Lincoln SP100. The owner bought that for ~$600 and people are still asking about that. That was a great machine for the price. I burned on it for >8hrs per day for over two years and it still worked great ten years later.

If I was going to do just car stuff, I would seriously consider a TIG. Anything you make will be way more bitchen with an ARC welder for sale. The Miller EconoTIG that Midlife Crisis has is another good (old) machine. If you do step up to a TIG, make sure that you get one with AC capability, so you can weld aluminum. You can always add a wire feed to a TIG.

Stick welding has no place on a car!

Flux core is tractor mechanic $#!+.
Next week end I will install the following gusset reinforce on both axle.

- ORE C-Gusset
- JKS Rear Trackbar brace + front MiniSkids
- Rock Krawler Weld On Front Trackbar Gusset Kit

A talented welder with years experience in shipyard will come home and do the job but he never seen an axle before so he try to collect some information about the job that will be done using a portable arc-welder.

Could you please suggest the best type of stick and required diameters for welding on axles ?

Thanking in advance for any information!
 

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