Department Of Boost GT550-S197 Stage II.5 Supercharger/Custom Intercooler System Kit For 2011-2014 Coyote Mustangs (Pictured with optional composite heat barrier) >>>>Before You Go Any Further<<<< Read Our Tech Article On Coyote Boosting Basics Linky:>>>>http://www.departmentofboost.com/vbull/showthread.php?681-Coyote-Boosting-Basics-The-Facts-gt-gt-Tech-lt-lt&p=6472#post6472 Make 500-650 Rear Wheel Horsepower Using The Supplied Stock 2007-2012 GT500 Blower You Can Make 500-850 Rear Wheel Horsepower Upgrading To A Stock 2013+2014 GT500 Blower In The Future You Can Make 550-1400 Rear Wheel Horsepower Upgrading To A Big Aftermarket GT500 Blower In The Future The coolest running positive displacement supercharger system available. Which means you get more of your power, more of the time. 550hp with this kit is more HP than any other kit making 550hp Using the Department Of Boost GT550-S197 Supercharger Kit You Can Make “All The Power” For Far Less Money! Packaged Without Ancillary Intercooler System Components So You Can Customize Your Combination And in the future it is fully upgradeable To REDICULIOUS Horsepower levels! (Pictured with optional composite heat barrier) Features and Specifications: -Complete installation can be done for as little as $3900 -Biggest/best flowing/ best cooling intercooler in the industry…..PERIOD! -Optional composite insulator available for EVEN LOWER intake air temps -Tested and proven -Best horsepower/ dollar ratio of any modification available for the Coyote -Uses OEM GT500 Roots Improved or TVS blower for cool running and bulletproof reliability -Or can be used with BIG screw blowers for insane levels of power -OEM drivability -Complete installation instructions available -Optional boost levels -Uses mostly OEM parts for unrivaled reliability and parts availability -As easy or easier to install than the other blower kits available for the 2011-2014 Mustang GT -NO fabrication necessary -Billet construction -O-ring sealing. No messy sealants/RTV’s -Easy intercooler fitting/port access Intake Air Temperatures: If you are new to forced induction you probably don’t understand the overwhelming factor that is intake air temperatures (IAT’s). This is a very complex subject, because this is an advertisement page and not a tech article we will keep it to the basics. When air is compressed (that’s what forced induction is), it heats up. Hot air is bad for two reasons. One, hot air is not as dense as cold air so hot air makes less power. Two, hot air is more likely to cause detonation (knock) and engine damage. To prevent this engine damage the cars computer (ECU) monitors the IAT’s and as they go up the ECU pulls back ignition timing to keep it safe. The problem is that less timing equals less power. So when you have higher IAT’s than you want you are losing power because the air is not as dense and losing power because the ECU is pulling ignition timing. How much power do you lose you ask? A LOT is the answer. On your normal average 80deg day driving around on the street it is more common than not for a 550hp car to be down 80-100hp. Yes, 80-100HP! IAT’s are the dirty little secret of the forced induction industry. Almost all blower/turbo manufacturers package their systems with the bare minimum. And that bare minimum means that most of the time you are driving your car you are not making the power it did on the dyno. Keeping IAT’s down on the dyno is easy. Keeping IAT’s down when you are driving your car around isn’t. It costs a lot of time and a lot of money to solve the IAT problem. And frankly until now no one has done it. This manifold represents the first time the IAT problem has been attacked head on by anyone. We have designed a manifold/intercooler package that is capable of removing up to four times the heat of ANY positive displacement manifold/intercooler offered by any other manufacturer. Bottom line. When using our package if you pull up next to another Coyote Mustang with the same dyno numbers as you, yours will be faster. The Stage II.5 Manifold/Supercharger/Custom Intercooler Kit Includes: -Billet aluminum intake manifold with integral intercooler -Billet aluminum idler pulley bracket -Billet aluminum idler pulley spacers -Billet aluminum fuel rail spacers -Billet aluminum quick change snout pulley and hub -Blower bypass relocation kit -Fasteners required to install the manifold and supercharger -New/Take off OEM M122 GT500 supercharger and elbow -New/Take off OEM GT500 throttle body -New/Take off OEM GT500 cold air intake/air filer/MAF housing (Pictured with optional composite heat barrier) Optional Composite Heat Barrier: We offer an industry only option. Our composite heat barrier. Our composite heat barrier is part of the manifold (that part of the manifold is aluminum if the option is not taken). The manifold bolts directly to the cylinder heads. Cylinder heads are HOT. 200-235deg. Aluminum is a fantastic conductor of heat. The problem with bolting an aluminum intake manifold to 200+deg aluminum cylinder heads is that the intake manifold quickly heats up. That hot manifold in turn heats up the air inside it, which is your intake air…….that you want to keep cool. If at all possible you want to keep your IAT’s down below 100deg. That is nearly impossible when the “box” (the manifold) you are running them through is anywhere from 180-200deg. Our composite heat barrier is just that, a heat barrier. Heat has a very hard time passing through the composite material we chose. That means far far less heat is transferred to the body of the intake manifold, which means far far less heat is transferred to the intake air charge. That is not the only advantage though. The intercooler (all intercoolers as far as we know) are attached directly to the intake manifold. The manifold is aluminum, the intercooler is aluminum. The intercooler has cool water running through it, the manifold is hot. What ends up happening is that the intercooler uses some of its ability to extract heat to cool the body of the intake manifold. That is not the intercoolers job, its job is to cool the air coming out of the blower. If the intercooler is using its LIMITED ability to extract heat to cool the intake manifold body it’s not doing a very good of a job at what it’s supposed to be doing, and that is cooling the air coming out of the blower. Additionally if the intercooler is cooling the body of the intake manifold there will be more heat in the water. More heat in the water means that it will not do as good of a job cooling the intake air temps. In short, cooler water is better. And with the composite barrier the water in the intercooler system will always be cooler. At $230 the optional composite heat barrier is by far the best bang for your cooling buck you will ever spend. Period. You can’t spend $230 on your intercooler system anywhere and get the same performance advantage. Not even close. The only situation where the composite heat barrier may not pay for itself is if the car is a drag strip only car (only running for 15-20sec at a time) and running an ice chest/ice water through the intercooler. (Pictured with optional composite heat barrier) What is needed to complete the installation?: Not very much. -You will need some standard shop supplies that if you don’t have you can pick up at any auto parts store. -You will need a tuner and a tune. -You will need intercooler system parts (see below) -2011-early build 2012 cars Only: The front timing/cam chain cover on 2011 and early build 2012 cars will not work with the belt system without modification. You can modify your stock one with it still on the car with a grinder/file/etc. Or you can buy an updated front cover from the dealer for about $100 and swap them out. This is a 2011-early build 2012 front cover (below). If yours looks like this it needs to be modified or replaced. The difference between the front covers is the ribbing on the left hand side. This is the later release front cover (below). If you have one of these you’re good to go.