Help me upgrade my car for racing school

[garner]

Ok guys either at the end of this month or sometime next month I will be taking a foundation of road racing class at driveway austin and eventually their advanced road racing class, but before then I want to set up my car to better handle the abuse it will go through.

Right now my car is just a stock GT non brembo, 99% daily driver but I do drive it hard and especially abuse the brakes. I was thinking of two different plans and wanted y'alls input.

First plan:
AM 18x10 10th anniversary wheels
285/35 or 295/35 tires
Carbotech XP12 pads
Motul 660 brake fluid

Second plan:
Current 18x8.5 wheels
255/40 tires
Carbotech XP12 Pads
Motul 660 brake fluid
Front and rear sway bars

I have also have roush shocks and struts with 1" lowering springs that will be going on the car

 

[ford20]

Option 1

Keep your suspension stock for now so you can learn your car and how it reacts and what needs to be changed and how that change would effect the handling. There aren't many people who ever said geeze I think I don't need any more tire. The 255s seem awfully skinny.

I tend to see 600 being used over 660 more often than not but I think 660 is a bit extreme for brake fluid unless you are constantly changing it. Hopefully someone more intelligent than I can correct me though. Brake pads are mostly based on your personal preference from what I have seen and read.

 

[csamsh]

I'd do this-

Motul RBF 600 (660 has too short of a maintenance interval for most of us)
XP10 or 12 front, XP8 rear pads
Vorshlag camber plates (to conserve your front tires)

Leave everything else alone for now- for a good perspective on why, read Jeff Lacina's article---

http://www.turnology.com/features/editorials-opinions/plan-your-attack-and-attack-your-plan/

Once you get some experience and you find the car is holding you back, then start with the modding. The things I'd do first are seats & harness, and tires & wheels.

 

[garner]

I guess I was looking at it the wrong way since I'm a complete corner carver novice lol. My way of thinking was do all the mods, then I would learn how to drive it when it's most capable, rather than learning to drive it the way it is stock and pull say .8G; then add all the stuff and not be used to the feeling of say .95G and thinking I'm about to lose it when actuality the car could do 1G. If that makes any sense at all.

This is why I'm glad y'all are here. I already had a $2,000 mod list without even thinking about what I really need or my end goal, was just in the moment.

 

[Apex50]

I would go after the brakes first- based on what I've read here, you are going to have continual probs with those oem front brake calipers. Maybe use some of your budget to upgrading to Brembo/Boss/GT500? At the end of the day suspension and tires will slow you down, where as losing the brake pedal will ruin your day!! Brake cooling would be good too.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

I guess I was looking at it the wrong way since I'm a complete corner carver novice lol. My way of thinking was do all the mods, then I would learn how to drive it when it's most capable, rather than learning to drive it the way it is stock and pull say .8G; then add all the stuff and not be used to the feeling of say .95G and thinking I'm about to lose it when actuality the car could do 1G. If that makes any sense at all.

This is why I'm glad y'all are here. I already had a $2,000 mod list without even thinking about what I really need or my end goal, was just in the moment.

Go watch the episode of top gear where Jeremy Clarkson tries to drive a F1 car.

He literally can't because the car is too fast for him, and he's a really good driver.

Seat time is king when it comes to these things. It doesn't take long to get comfortable with the factory car. After a few autocross events I felt held back by the relentless understeer the s197 is notorious for.

As has been said, once you get a feel for the car you'll be able to see what's holding you back.

 

[claudermilk]

I'll add another voice to the chorus here: pretty much leave the car alone for now. Learn to drive it stock. As you gain skill & familiarity with the car at speed, you will learn what it needs.

If you were to do anything, I'd again add another vote for Motul 600, and better pads. The Carbotechs are popular around here, and I am running Bobcats on the street & for autocross, and have a set of XP8/10 waiting in the wings for a track day.

For the first classes, I doubt you will be pushing too much. The focus will likely be on how to drive the car, where to place it, where to look, how to find the flagging stations, etc. Going fast and tuning the suspension won't be part of the program yet.

 

[sheizasosay]

Brake cooling, fluid, pads, and a SEAT!

EDIT- Camber plates are a good idea too.

 

[Mike Rousch]

I will add also. Just as most have said, leave the car alone and focus on learning. Then from there get some good brakes, Its hard to beat the brembos. Carbotech 12/8 is a great combo, SS lines, fluid, cooling, and a set of camber plates. All of that can be had for the budget you have when it comes that time!

 

[Norm Peterson]

XP10's or XP10/XP8 and Motul RBF600 minimum to begin with.

Brake cooling and camber plates highly recommended.

When you're ready for XP12's seems like a good time to step up to a 14" GT500/Brembo brake kit, or if you run a set of XP12's with the OE rotors to upgrade the brake kit at the next pad replacement time (which for track use is typically 50% friction material thickness going into an event).


Norm

 

[todcp]

Seat and race belts are not a good idea on a race track unless you have a roll bar or cage. A four point or more seat belt holds you in to a perfect position to have your neck broken in a rollover.
A three point belt allows for your upper body and neck to slip out of the way of a collapsing roof.
Yes I have seen two cars roll at an HPDE event. Both intermediate drivers.
I use a CG lock seat belt device.
Some track day companies may not permit it so check with the organization you will drive with before you make the investment.

 

[sheizasosay]

I use OEM belt and a Sparco Figjter fixed back seat.

 

[Norm Peterson]

I guess I was looking at it the wrong way since I'm a complete corner carver novice lol. My way of thinking was do all the mods, then I would learn how to drive it when it's most capable, rather than learning to drive it the way it is stock and pull say .8G; then add all the stuff and not be used to the feeling of say .95G and thinking I'm about to lose it when actuality the car could do 1G. If that makes any sense at all.

In 0.8g trim, your car will lose grip more progressively. IOW, you get more warning. On top of that, you're going slower in terms of mph, should either pair of tires (or all four) go into a full slide. You won't go as far, or hit as hard.

The things you generally do to support ~1g cornering make the car's behavior remain closer to linear and less understeerish, which isn't exactly novice-friendly behavior. An unexpected transition to relatively "looser" behavior at higher speeds while you're still on the steep part of your learning curve might not be a good place to suddenly find yourself.


Car roof structures have to pass much more rigorous standards now than they did before, But I'm not willing to trust that it's good enough by itself to wear a harness out on the big track without at least a roll bar just yet. Though I do think the roof requirements are sufficient for harness use without a roll bar at most autocrosses.

I do use a separate non-slacking lap belt arrangement in addition to the OE 3-point (and have the same thing available for the right seat) that is another way of fighting the tendency of OE belts to go slack.


Norm

 

[claudermilk]

I've got a CG Lock on my OEM belts (and OEM Recaros). They really do work; the lap belt stays nice & tight and holds you in the seat better. It's a nice compromise before going to a full harness and bar/cage.

 

[jayel579]

It's a nice compromise before going to a full harness and bar/cage.

Until you but race pads on and start submarining under the belts under braking!

 

[Speed Junky]

I use a CG lock seat belt device.

I've got a CG Lock on my OEM belts (and OEM Recaros). They really do work; the lap belt stays nice & tight and holds you in the seat better. It's a nice compromise before going to a full harness and bar/cage.

Thank you, I was looking for a compromise so I wouldn't have to go full harness.

 

[claudermilk]

http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustang-lock-lapbelt.html

Be sure to get the forum discount code if you don't already have it.

 

[Vorshlag-Fair]

Just buy this car and you are done.

Hehehe.... naw, cSMASHbrothers had it right. Fluid, pads, and camber should be your first track mods on an S197. Leave the big mods until after you have done a half dozen track weekends. Your driving will be WAY better than you realize now after you have some seat time and you might do something like switch cars, or you might stick with what you have and want to go nuts.

 

[Racer47]

Just buy this car and you are done.

48k isn't cheap but thats really not a bad price for that car. Many guys often underestimate the time and effort it takes to thoroughly sort out a race car. Its more than just the sum of the parts.

But you forgot to mention in your ad that it is a salt-free southern car

(just kidding, alright thats all i got, i'll drop it now)

 

[2013DIBGT]

OK, Since we all know opinions are like assholes I'll be the asshole and give my opinion.

Unless you've never owned a previous car that had any real performance or handling characteristics it's only going to take one lap or aggressive driving session on your favorite back road to realize the car needs help in certain areas. If you really havent owned a car previously that had good handling then by all means take the safe route and drive the car in its current state to learn its shortcomings so you don't kill yourself or someone else.

I say if you are already familiar with how a car should handle then use the well documented recipe to fix the "broken" parts first then learn to drive it in that "more better" configuration. If money is not of concern then all your doing is prolonging the inevitable IMO.

I've only seen one person so far in this forum who thought the stock car handled well.....until they eventually modded it and realized it really is much better afterwards.

Skip the peas and carrots and go straight to the meat and potatoes!