Help with Shifter Spacers

scramblr

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My plan is to take off the PRO 5.0 and put the stocker back in just to see if the PRO is the cause to some shifting issues. So I take the Spyder DS out and look at the underside of the shifter. I notice the tranny linkage arm can be moved ever so slightly side to side where the shifter bolts to it. Same on the tranny end. I can rotate the brass(?) spacers with two fingers. I was careful not to over tighten the nut since I already stripped one shift linkage arm and had to replace it. I can't remember the torque for that nut, but I didn't make it very tight and used loctite.

Is it right for those spacers to rotate like that? This could be the metal rattling I'm hearing/feeling through the shift handle under load. Didn't some people use the stock spacers to get rid of some NVH? I don't think those will work though, I don't believe they're wide enough.

Thoughts/advise please....
 

Buzzystang

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About two months ago, I took out my Pro5.0 because the vibes were driving me crazy. Steeda makes a new part for their Tri-Ax that uses the stock bushings. It just slips over the bottom of the shifter to take up the space of the old brass bushings, then you can insert the stock bushings. Steedas latest instructions for the tri-ax shows the piece in one of the pictures.

I ordered it for my Pro5.0 and it fits just the same. I haven't reinstalled the Pro5.0 yet to see if it makes a difference, but I bet it will help. I also ordered Steeda's isolator kit while I was at it also. If those two things don't make it quiet then I'm going to an MGW. Nobody's complained about those.
 

Herknav

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Could it be an installation issue? My Pro 5.0 doesn't have any of these issues.
 

scramblr

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Well, that's what I'm wondering. Maybe I didn't tighten the nut on the shift linkage arm enough. That's why I need to know if the spacers are supposed to spin that easily. But the threads on that linkage arm are made of silly putty and will strip with no problem.
 

Herknav

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Well, I would get under my car and look, but I am far too lazy and I only have one more day left before I go back to work.
 

Buzzystang

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No... I shoulda posted a link. Sorry:

http://www.steeda.com/directions/555-7305-steeda-triax-s197.pdf

Go to page 2, it's the last picture at the bottom right. You can see it uses the stock bushings. They don't have this part in the online catalog, you have to email them or call them direct to order it. The isolator kit I referred to is on page 3 of those same instructions. It goes on the handle. Their tech tips on page three are interesting also...

And yeah, many people don't have problems with noise from the Pro5.0. My pro5.0 doesn't make any noise either - it's the damb tranny that makes all the noise. The Pro5.0 just makes it more apparent. The stock shifter, of which there are two designs, has material in both the support arm and shifter arm, plus the rubber and plastic bushings to reduce noise from entering the cabin. I just have a louder than usual tranny.
 

scramblr

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Well, that piece at the bottom of the shifter would have solved part of my problem, but I improvised. I also like the tech tips. Something I may try.

Anyway, I think the nut at the bottom of the shifter was not tight enough. When I tightened it some more, there was still play with the brass bushings, but not as much. So I got one of the rubber washers from the stock plastic bushings and put it behind the large brass bushing. Now there's no play and I only had to snug the nut...that solved part of my problems. The rattling is all gone and the shifter feels a lot firmer.

Interestingly something else happened. I can now shift a little better above 5500rpms. I have the stock tune in right now so I could only go up to 6100rpms. It was hard going into 2nd and 3rd, but it went in. Something I haven't been able to do for some time. That's another story leading to possibly bad synchros. Then again, maybe it's a shifter problem...? The shifting saga continues!!! :samuri:

Thanks for your inputs...Yeah, and you too Herk .:clap: (j/k)
 

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