I paid $313.45 with a 5% customer loyalty promo code. I got the 6000K White/Blue kit.
2010+ Mustang HID Headlight and Foglight Package
After receiving this kit from StangMods the Packing Slip said go to
Mustang Parts Installation Instructions and How-To - Home
for instructions.
The link for the Headlights is here:
Mustang Parts Installation Instructions and How-To - Mustang Bixenon HID Installation
The link for the Fogs is here:
Mustang Parts Installation Instructions and How-To - S197 HID Foglight Installation
Basically these instructions where for a 09 Mustang
but there are only very minor differences in the install.
One key point I would like to make...if possible line your car up with a flat wall at night and mark your stock low beam headlight "height" I did this with a few small chalk marks the night before I did the install. Now the key here is not to move your car. After the install is complete check the HID light "height" against the stock marks. If needed be sure to lower the aim so as not to blind on coming traffic. When I did mine install the HID lights were actually an inch or two below the original line. There is a blue aiming light on top of the headlight housing.
Step 1. Pull the positive battery terminal. Note...be sure to have your doors open as the window auto raise/lower function will not work with the battery disconnected.
Step 2. Pull off the plastic radiator shroud. 8 pin and spreader connectors...don't drop one down between the radiators...it is a total pain in the ass to retrieve!
Step 3. Unbolt the Stock Air Box...this is to allow you a bit of room when working on the driver's side light bulb.
Step 4. Unbolt the grill...not necessary to completely remove , just enough to pull the bulbs (2X Bolts).
Step 5. Lay out the Headlight wiring harness. Be sure to run under the radiator support brackets, dress things up nicely.
Step 6. Connect the red jumper cable...I used the positive terminal in the fuse box.
Step 7. Connect the negative lead to the body/frame. I used a bolt near the front passenger side for the fender.
Step 8. Pull out and replace the passenger side bulb with the HID bulb. Take the stock connector cable from the passenger side headlight and hook to the HID Harness.
Step 9. Find a good spot to mount the ballast...I used some 3M tape and stuck the ballast to the passenger side fender next to the fuse box...it makes a tight fit and after all is wired up I used a couple of black zip ties to better hold things in place.
Step 10. Make all correct cabling connections from the ballast to the passenger bulb (4 each 1 to the ballast on 3 for the bulb).
Step 11. Find a ground spot got the negative lead on the driver's side. I used the hole/bolt that mounts the air box.
Step 12. Again, mount the ballast...I used the same method on the driver's side that I did for the passenger side. Not a great photo but trust me, it is down there!
Step 13. Exchange the bulbs...note the driver's side stock wire connector will not be used. I secured it with a zip tie and used some electrical tape covering the connectors.
Step 14. Make all correct cabling connections from the ballast to the driver's side bulb.
Step 15. At this point I dropped the positive terminal on the battery and checked the headlights...they worked! Be sure to check low and high beams. If all is working turn off the lights and pull off the battery terminal.
Step 16. Using zip ties and electrical tape dress up all connections and wiring. I double wrapped electrical tape on all jumper connections.
Moving on to the fogs.
Step 1. Find a good spot to mount the ballasts. I drilled two small holes in the in the sheet metal in front of the radiator for mounting the ballasts and using the brackets and hardware that come with the kit. The plastic radiator shroud will cover this up and if positioned correctly can barley be seen thru the grill. Be sure to use the lock washer and even a bit of loc-tite, as the ballasts will be in a location that you won't see very much!
Step 2. Pull out one of the fog bulb and replace. This kit does not have matching connectors to the stock wire point. But I matched the positive (white) and negative (black) points on the wiring harness and inserted the two blades into the correct position. E-Tape this connection thoroughly. You could cut and slice the connection but this may make it harder to return to stock if you ever chose to do so.
Step 3. Make all correct cabling connections from the ballast to the bulb.
Step 4. Repeat steps 1-3 for the second bulb.
Step 5. Toss on the battery terminal and check to see if operational. NOTE: My fogs won't turn on without the key in the run position.
Step 6. Remove battery terminal and be sure to dress up all wiring and connections.
Now put everything back together.
Step 1. Re-bolt the front grill.
Step 2. Re-mount the Air Box...make sure you properly seat the incoming air duct.
Step 3. Replace the plastic radiator shroud using the 8 pin and spreader connectors.
Step 4. Replace the positive battery terminal and tighten...be sure to correctly position the fancy red terminal cover.
Well I think that correctly sums up the work required. I think this took me about an hour and half and two Coronas to complete. It was very hot out and I had to take a few "shade breaks"!
Finally I wish I would have take some before night photos but I failed to do so.
Low beams
Low beams with Fogs
Fogs only
High Beams
2010+ Mustang HID Headlight and Foglight Package
After receiving this kit from StangMods the Packing Slip said go to
Mustang Parts Installation Instructions and How-To - Home
for instructions.
The link for the Headlights is here:
Mustang Parts Installation Instructions and How-To - Mustang Bixenon HID Installation
The link for the Fogs is here:
Mustang Parts Installation Instructions and How-To - S197 HID Foglight Installation
Basically these instructions where for a 09 Mustang
but there are only very minor differences in the install.One key point I would like to make...if possible line your car up with a flat wall at night and mark your stock low beam headlight "height" I did this with a few small chalk marks the night before I did the install. Now the key here is not to move your car. After the install is complete check the HID light "height" against the stock marks. If needed be sure to lower the aim so as not to blind on coming traffic. When I did mine install the HID lights were actually an inch or two below the original line. There is a blue aiming light on top of the headlight housing.
Step 1. Pull the positive battery terminal. Note...be sure to have your doors open as the window auto raise/lower function will not work with the battery disconnected.
Step 2. Pull off the plastic radiator shroud. 8 pin and spreader connectors...don't drop one down between the radiators...it is a total pain in the ass to retrieve!
Step 3. Unbolt the Stock Air Box...this is to allow you a bit of room when working on the driver's side light bulb.
Step 4. Unbolt the grill...not necessary to completely remove , just enough to pull the bulbs (2X Bolts).
Step 5. Lay out the Headlight wiring harness. Be sure to run under the radiator support brackets, dress things up nicely.
Step 6. Connect the red jumper cable...I used the positive terminal in the fuse box.
Step 7. Connect the negative lead to the body/frame. I used a bolt near the front passenger side for the fender.
Step 8. Pull out and replace the passenger side bulb with the HID bulb. Take the stock connector cable from the passenger side headlight and hook to the HID Harness.
Step 9. Find a good spot to mount the ballast...I used some 3M tape and stuck the ballast to the passenger side fender next to the fuse box...it makes a tight fit and after all is wired up I used a couple of black zip ties to better hold things in place.
Step 10. Make all correct cabling connections from the ballast to the passenger bulb (4 each 1 to the ballast on 3 for the bulb).
Step 11. Find a ground spot got the negative lead on the driver's side. I used the hole/bolt that mounts the air box.
Step 12. Again, mount the ballast...I used the same method on the driver's side that I did for the passenger side. Not a great photo but trust me, it is down there!
Step 13. Exchange the bulbs...note the driver's side stock wire connector will not be used. I secured it with a zip tie and used some electrical tape covering the connectors.
Step 14. Make all correct cabling connections from the ballast to the driver's side bulb.
Step 15. At this point I dropped the positive terminal on the battery and checked the headlights...they worked! Be sure to check low and high beams. If all is working turn off the lights and pull off the battery terminal.
Step 16. Using zip ties and electrical tape dress up all connections and wiring. I double wrapped electrical tape on all jumper connections.
Moving on to the fogs.
Step 1. Find a good spot to mount the ballasts. I drilled two small holes in the in the sheet metal in front of the radiator for mounting the ballasts and using the brackets and hardware that come with the kit. The plastic radiator shroud will cover this up and if positioned correctly can barley be seen thru the grill. Be sure to use the lock washer and even a bit of loc-tite, as the ballasts will be in a location that you won't see very much!
Step 2. Pull out one of the fog bulb and replace. This kit does not have matching connectors to the stock wire point. But I matched the positive (white) and negative (black) points on the wiring harness and inserted the two blades into the correct position. E-Tape this connection thoroughly. You could cut and slice the connection but this may make it harder to return to stock if you ever chose to do so.
Step 3. Make all correct cabling connections from the ballast to the bulb.
Step 4. Repeat steps 1-3 for the second bulb.
Step 5. Toss on the battery terminal and check to see if operational. NOTE: My fogs won't turn on without the key in the run position.
Step 6. Remove battery terminal and be sure to dress up all wiring and connections.
Now put everything back together.
Step 1. Re-bolt the front grill.
Step 2. Re-mount the Air Box...make sure you properly seat the incoming air duct.
Step 3. Replace the plastic radiator shroud using the 8 pin and spreader connectors.
Step 4. Replace the positive battery terminal and tighten...be sure to correctly position the fancy red terminal cover.
Well I think that correctly sums up the work required. I think this took me about an hour and half and two Coronas to complete. It was very hot out and I had to take a few "shade breaks"!
Finally I wish I would have take some before night photos but I failed to do so.
Low beams
Low beams with Fogs
Fogs only
High Beams
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