High Amp Fuse Holders / Battery Relocation

[tmcolegr]

So today I ran the 3 battery (welding) cables through the interior of the vehicle back to the trunk. For those that have done this before I am sure you can appreciate that this, if done neatly and correctly, is easier said than done on a vehicle which still has all the factory interior installed. Prior to running these cables the floor pan should be carefully inspected for burrs sticking up that could puncture the jacketing on the cable and create a short circuit. All cables were routed laying flat on the floor pan. None of the cables were crossed and all 3 of these cables were loosely tie strapped together to keep them in the original location that they were installed in. All carpeting and interior trip panels have been reinstalled and there are no telltale signs of these cables running under the carpeting. Passenger seat still adjusts fore & aft without any interference from the cables. Here's some pictures

I am planning on mounting the battery in the center of the trunk compartment directly behind the rear seats. Here the spot I'm referring to.

Trunk mat has temporarily been reinstalled while I wait for the Odyssey billet aluminum battery tray, battery and battery disconnect switch to arrive

I know y'all are going to find this impossible to believe, but currently I have about 16 hours invested in this project (8 hours in the planning and locating all the components I intend on using and another 8 hours of installation to get to this point) and expect to have another 8 hours to complete this project. Still have the battery & battery tray to mount, custom fuse panel/disconnect switch panel to fabricate and install, and completion of all the battery cables back in the trunk compartment.

 

[MLC40]

I believe it, I know I have spent way more time working on my car then driving it and I didn't build or install my own engine. I am hoping this year I will drive/race more that work on it.

 

[05stroker]

I know y'all are going to find this impossible to believe, but currently I have about 16 hours invested in this project (8 hours in the planning and locating all the components I intend on using and another 8 hours of installation to get to this point) and expect to have another 8 hours to complete this project. Still have the battery & battery tray to mount, custom fuse panel/disconnect switch panel to fabricate and install, and completion of all the battery cables back in the trunk compartment.

I can beleive it 100 % ,if you want it clean and correct then you have to take the time to do it right . Looks good so far !

 

[one eyed willy]

its funny how when you start a project, it feels like it wont take that long....then when you add it all up you realize just how much you really spent.....i know i spent 40-50 hours on just reloacting my ecu and fuse box.....and that was only the passenger side.

 

[tmcolegr]

Fuse/Battery Disconnect Switch panel completed and ready to be installed

 

[akula52]

time

I took me about 16-20 hours to get mine done, so I know what you mean, and I didn't have a shaker 1000 to deal with. You always do very nice work and great write-ups! Thanks!

Oh, I am going to re-route that one ground line someday, it looks better than the picture shows

 

[tmcolegr]

I took me about 16-20 hours to get mine done, so I know what you mean, and I didn't have a shaker 1000 to deal with. You always do very nice work and great write-ups! Thanks!

Thanks

I am very fortunate that I don't have to use the vehicle for a daily driver and can take as long as want to document the task at hand

 

[dysan]

Dang you always go all out on your stuff! That panel with the 2 fuse holders and shut-off looks great!

 

[tmcolegr]

Dang you always go all out on your stuff! That panel with the 2 fuse holders and shut-off looks great!

Once again thanks...

took about 4 hours to layout, cut, trim, drill, assemble and install signage on the disconnect switch key & panel.

Disconnect switch is rated at 1000 amps continuous duty!! Key is also removable. Switch only cost me $50.

 

[fhlh]

Subscribing for future project
You have some of the best write-ups, thanks for sharing


Question, where are you mounting that panel?

 

[tmcolegr]

Question, where are you mounting that panel?

Stay tuned...

 

[dysan]

Mounting a panel in itself sounds painful especially if there's sharp edges, but do we really need pictures?

 

[tmcolegr]

No sharp edges - all corners have been rounded off to make it child proof.

 

[dysan]

After thinking about how I was going to do my battery shutoff for racing I decided to extend the alternator wire to the trunk and do a 2-pole as well. I don't like the fact that people say the solenoid gets hot when doing it that way and I also don't want to splice into the ignition wires either so I decided to keep it simple.

Why did you put that warning to disconnect the Aeroforce gauges before killing the power? Will it damage them or the PCM?

 

[tmcolegr]

Why did you put that warning to disconnect the Aeroforce gauges before killing the power? Will it damage them or the PCM?

To remind me that the Aeroforce Interceptor User's Manual states:

"Precautions,
Unplug the Interceptor before disconnecting the battery or performing engine work to prevent damage to the unit"

 

[tmcolegr]

Question, where are you mounting that panel?

Stay tuned...

When choosing a mounting location for the fuse/disconnect switch panel and battery, I had certain criteria that needed to be met:

• Easy to install
• Easy to access for maintenance (turning disconnect switch off/on and replacing fuses)
• Non intrusive into the main trunk compartment
• Keep battery cables short and neat as possible
• Centered (more or less) in the body - not off in a corner of the body

Keep in mind I have a Shaker 1000 sub box in my trunk compartment that is still fully functional.

So here's where I mounted it. Battery mount is laid in place for reference

Here's a complete picture of the battery mount.

Since I'm using a sealed dry cell battery there is no need to vent the battery

Lastly I disconnected the 2 (+) battery cables that were run up to the front of the vehicle (Starter/BEC & Alternator) and checked each cable to make sure there were no unwanted shorts due to a inadvertently chaffing a cable. All is good.

Battery that will be used is an Odyssey PS1200LMJT. Measures 6.80" x 6.66" x 7.87" (HxWxL) and has 1200 CCAs.

 

[tmcolegr]

Odyssey battery & hold down preassembled

 

[tmcolegr]

Battery Tray mounted

Battery and hold down clear back of seat by 1/4"

View from trunk

 

[tmcolegr]

Taylor 21504 Remote Battery Jumper Terminals will allow the battery to be charged without having to directly access the battery

 

[PLee]

Looks awesome! Reminds of a '67 Mustang fastback project I worked on- we put an '07 GT500 motor in the car w/ the battery located in the trunk. I ran a single 1/0 gauge cable to the front and split it there- alt, starter, etc. with a similar-style high-amperage fuse holder like you are using. I took the wire direct to the starter, and a smaller gauge wire from the starter to the alternator. Worked like a charm! Only thing I'd have done differently in your install would have been to wrap the entire length of the cables w/ wire loom. I use the flexible braided stuff (Tech Flex). Just me being paranoid... there's lotsa sharp edges inside these cars. Oh- and I solder and crimp the ring terminals to the cable... messy and requires lotsa heat, but creates an impeccable connection. Looks awesome- I really dig the fuse holder/switch panel and where you put it!