Hooking up a Line Converter... help needed

[Wicked GT]

For those of you that have kept the factory Shaker 500 Head Unit and installed aftermarket amp(s), how did you do it?

I am looking at the AudioControl LC6i Line converter but need to know what wires to tap in to in the factory harness... I will be running the Front/Rear speaker wires and using the autosense for the third set of inputs. If anyone has pictures of their install that would assist PLEASE POST THEM UP! I have installed a number of systems in cars but have never worked with a factory head unit. Help is appreciated!

Here is how the system is being built:

Shaker 500 to LC6i (or direct to subs using line inputs)
LC6i to RCA's
#1 & #2 RCA's to 4 channel sub (Door Speakers)
#3 RCA to 4 channel sub (Door Subs and eventual additional sub)
Speaker wires to each speaker

 

[riored4v]

I had an LC6i hooked up on mine. I tapped the wire coming out of the sub amp by the driver door.

This was the write-up I followed and it worked great
http://www.evilcartman.com/shaker-500-add-a-sub-install.html

Also, if you still need an LC6i, I just uninstalled mine about a week ago and its FS.

 

[BadHabit2Break]

The LC6i is a nice piece. I use it in my wife's Edge.

You can get the wire diagram here for the harness to splice into.
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=40&viewfile=Audio System, Navigation.pdf

 

[Wicked GT]

Why would you tap in to the wires after the amp and not the ones coming out of the back of the Shaker unit?

I had an LC6i hooked up on mine. I tapped the wire coming out of the sub amp by the driver door.

This was the write-up I followed and it worked great
http://www.evilcartman.com/shaker-500-add-a-sub-install.html

Also, if you still need an LC6i, I just uninstalled mine about a week ago and its FS.

 

[riored4v]

Why would you tap in to the wires after the amp and not the ones coming out of the back of the Shaker unit?

I'm referring to the amp for the shaker setup. Its the amp that powers the shaker500 door subs

*edit* I tapped in to those ones since its easier to access and run the wires from there than pulling the headunit out. Plus, like i was saying, it worked great there. By going off the wires for the door subs, it would work with the bass setting and not front/rear, which was really nice. I liked having the fader set all the way front and eliminating the rear speakers.

 

[Wicked GT]

Thanks for the explanation... that brings up another question/issue. You noted that the Bass controls worked but not the balance/fade. How do I have to wire up the system to keep those options functional? Not as worried about balance but do want the fade, bass, treble functions to operate.

 

[riored4v]

Thanks for the explanation... that brings up another question/issue. You noted that the Bass controls worked but not the balance/fade. How do I have to wire up the system to keep those options functional? Not as worried about balance but do want the fade, bass, treble functions to operate.

Sorry if my post was misleading. Everything worked as it should with it hooked up that way. I just happened to keep my fader set all the way to the front to remove rear fill. Sounded better that way and I was able to get it louder that way too.

 

[Wicked GT]

So using only the two amp outputs you were able to use Balance/fade as well as bass/treble? Also, are the amp outputs crossed over or are they full range? I will be running two amps in my setup, one 4-channel for the 5x7's and another 4-channel for the door subs and addition of 10" sub down the road.

 

[riored4v]

Yup, i was able to use balance/fade and bass/trebble all as they were intended to be used.

Regarding if they are full range signals, I'm not 100% positive on that one. When I was researching the install, I'm thinking that I do recall seeing that wires coming off that amp were full range. I think it had something to do with the door subs being DVC.

I'm also pretty positive that the feeds going to the rear speakers are NOT full range so it's recommended to not tap in to those ones.

 

[Wicked GT]

Okay all, have another question... may make this whole mess easier, just not sure if it would work? Instead of tapping the speaker wires behind the radio, could I tap in to the speaker wires in the doors? I am running all new speaker wire so the factory speaker harness is not being utilized... could I just put a coupler on the end of speaker wire and attach it there? Don't know if I am making this easier/harder than it needs to be but would certainly make it easy to know which wires I am working with...

 

[riored4v]

Unless you're pushing big power through them, I dont see why you couldnt. Just keep track of polarity when you hook up your door speakers.

Also, by tapping, i'm assuming you mean cutting the factory wires?

 

[BadHabit2Break]

The OEM HU runs the doors speakers on its own. The only amp in the system is for the door subs.

 

[123456]

When I put the system in my car, I tried tapping into the rear speakers and my woofers were low in volume. I had to tap into the amp for the 8" subs in order to get a good signal.

 

[Wicked GT]

any pics or guidance on what you tapped in to? This was posted earlier and they utilized the amp output as well... I was just planning on using the front/rear speaker wires so I had full spectrum sound.

http://www.evilcartman.com/shaker-500-add-a-sub-install.html

 

[riored4v]

any pics or guidance on what you tapped in to? This was posted earlier and they utilized the amp output as well... I was just planning on using the front/rear speaker wires so I had full spectrum sound.

http://www.evilcartman.com/shaker-500-add-a-sub-install.html

I followed the instructions on that write-up exactly. The wires he suggested tapping in to are the ones coming off the amp and they worked great.

Pins 1, 2, 5 and 6.

 

[Wicked GT]

Has anyone on here run new speaker wires to the doors? If so, how the hell did you do it???? I can't get at the opening in the car due to the sheet metal, and I can't fish a wire through as it keeps getting caught on the plastic piece that buts up to the door frame...

 

[Wicked GT]

Nobody ran new wires to the speakers...?

 

[123456]

I ran new ones but in my 07.
I removed the plastic coupler thing that snaps on to the door and the body then just fished lined the wire into the cabin. The drivers side sucks big balls but the passenger side is fairly easy.
Good luck lol

 

[5.0 Probie]

Unless you are running over say 90w to one of those speakers, the wire looks to be of reasonable gauge to not require running new wires to them. I am sorry I do not have the info in front of me, but as each gauge wire gets larger it can handle more and more... I just bought the wire-speaker adapters and know they will work out just fine. This way the integrity of the door seals/grommets are intact...

 

[Wicked GT]

okay thanks guys... found a few tutorials online... planning on running 100w to the door and rear deck speakers and 150w to the subs. Regular wire would probably work but not spending the money to upgrade everything and then use sub par wiring...