how TO, (and how NOT to) wash a new black mustang
- Thread starter doc stang
- Start date
Rather than type a bunch of stuff use this link, they have a lot of good info.
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to.html
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to.html
Get Zaino car wash soap, and wash it with that. Before washing, hose it down REALLY good to get all the loose particles off that you won't want to be rubbing around with the wash mitt. Use a 100% wool wash mitt and nothing else. Wash it in the shade!!!
Dry it with microfiber towels, good one's not the cheap dusty ones at gas stations. I use these: http://www.autopia-carcare.com/son-dwdt-2.html
NEVER use a chamois unless you really want swirls and scratches in your black paint.
That's not the half of it though.... I never touch my paint EVER unless it's when I'm washing it, that avoids scratches etc. The only reason there are bad looking parts on mine is because whenever it gets body work done at the dealership, they wash it before they bring it out and god knows what they do back there where I can't see.
After 3+ years, my paint still looks great and I haven't even waxed it in almost a year. I really need to do that...
Dry it with microfiber towels, good one's not the cheap dusty ones at gas stations. I use these: http://www.autopia-carcare.com/son-dwdt-2.html
NEVER use a chamois unless you really want swirls and scratches in your black paint.
That's not the half of it though.... I never touch my paint EVER unless it's when I'm washing it, that avoids scratches etc. The only reason there are bad looking parts on mine is because whenever it gets body work done at the dealership, they wash it before they bring it out and god knows what they do back there where I can't see.
After 3+ years, my paint still looks great and I haven't even waxed it in almost a year. I really need to do that...
jcsuli74
Junior Member
most important thing to remember with a black car.... patience young grasshopper. i found with my black truck i had to use staright back and forth strokes not circles when apply or removing wax. i would do one stroke from edge to edge of the panel with no stopping.
SteveP
Modular Specialist
I got into cleaning cars because all my mustangs have been black. I have used many products but I must say that Meguiars is the best!!!! I will only use their products on mine
ixtlan
Senior Member
The Mr Clean is good stuff.
And it DOES NOT strip the wax like some morons say.
Best way to use it is as follows:
Wash Car normally with your car wash stuff.
Then wash it with the Mr Clean cleaner (This is the sheeting polymer) just be sure to spray it on throughly.
Rinse with the Mr Clean in the Normal Rinse position or using your own rinse attachment.
Then rinse with the Mr Clean set to the rinse position from the top down.
Kick back and watch it dry.
If you notice water drying in one spot and not sheeting just hit with the rinse again.
The filtered (Rinse) position replaces the regular water with de-ionized water that has no minerals in it.
Works great!!!
And it DOES NOT strip the wax like some morons say.
Best way to use it is as follows:
Wash Car normally with your car wash stuff.
Then wash it with the Mr Clean cleaner (This is the sheeting polymer) just be sure to spray it on throughly.
Rinse with the Mr Clean in the Normal Rinse position or using your own rinse attachment.
Then rinse with the Mr Clean set to the rinse position from the top down.
Kick back and watch it dry.
If you notice water drying in one spot and not sheeting just hit with the rinse again.
The filtered (Rinse) position replaces the regular water with de-ionized water that has no minerals in it.
Works great!!!
So with my car with 6,500 miles only, do I even need to use an orbital buffer?? Im going to use Zymol..Should I just hand wax it??
If you hand wax, I would still use a good wax like Meguiar's Cleaner Wax.
I'll give you some tips that I have used over the past years. I have done auto-body as a hobby for decades, and have been trained by a 30 year vet on what some best practice steps are.
First, you have to understand that there are two type of shine, physical and chemical. A physical shine will give you the best, longest lasting shine. Chemical shines are typically done between physical polishings to help maintain a look. The first 3 steps below will cover a physical shine, then the last 3 steps will cover a chemical shine. All steps can be used together in order. The first 2 steps are only recommended if you have paint that has never been cut before. It is also recommended that it be done by a pro.
If you have single-stage paint or 2/3 stage paints, they all start the same way. ***Note: Between each step, you MUST wash the vehicle and change your pads/rages.
Step 1 - If your paint shows heavy wear, you may want to start with wet sanding with a block of 1300 to 2600 grit paper to help clean-up major marks.
Step 2 - To get the sanding marks out or to get rid of cloudy paint/clear-coat, you want to use a 12" high speed orbital buffer with some rubbing compound. You will make the car look very dull, but it is a good starting point to get heavy scratches out and give the paint/clear a consistent pattern. I recommend 3M products for all of the polishing products with the exception of the final stage.
When using a buffer, you always want to make sure the buffer wheel edge you are using is spinning away from the edge of body panels. If the buffer is spinning into the lip, you will burn the paint off the edge, requiring a new paint job. You also want to be sure the buffer stays wet and is allowed to spin freely and as fast as possible. The slower and drier it gets, the more likely it is to burn a hole in the paint.
Step 3 - The next item you want to step up to would be a machine polish. Again, use a 12" high speed orbital buffer. 3M's Finesse-It works great. This will take the dull paint/clear and start to put a killer physical shine as it refines the general pattern in the paint. I recommend you polish the whole car twice with the machine polish to get a very clean look.
If you have lightly clouded paint/clear or light scratches, you can start with this stage. This stage can be used many, many times before requiring new paint/clear. I have cut "factory" paint on a Jeep 4 to 5 times a year for 6 years before needing some clear was needed. This is an extreme amount, but I used the truck for off-road recreation. I was polishing lots of heavy lines out.
Step 4 - Instead of using a basic soap and water for cleaning after polish, you want to start the chemical shine process now. Wash the car using a very soft cloth such as terrycloth. You want to use a soap/wax combo such as ArmorAll Ultra Shine Wash & Wax. Use a soft household bath towel to completely dry the car.
Step 5 A - If you have a single stage paint, you will get the best results from using a paste wax like Turtle Wax. Wax the vehicle by hand with a clean terrycloth applicator. Use a new, clean terrycloth to remove the wax after it completely dries.
It is important at this stage to use your hand to mimic the rotating action of the buffer to help maintain the physical shine during the application and removal of the paste wax. Repeat this step twice.
Step 5 B - If you have a 2/3 stage paint which requires "polish" instead of wax, I would recommend a cleaner wax made for clear coat. I use Meguiar's with great results. You will want to use a slower speed, 10" buffer for this application. For removal, take as much of the polish of the vehicle by hand with a terrycloth, then use a terrycloth buffing pad to refine the removal and get a great shine. If you have one of the extra fuzzy, really soft, "diaper for my baby" dry buffing pads, this is a great time to use it.
Repeat this step twice and you're done!!!
Depending on the level of oxidization and scratches, you can choose to start this process at any step. As long as you follow through to the end, you will be happy.
I'll give you some tips that I have used over the past years. I have done auto-body as a hobby for decades, and have been trained by a 30 year vet on what some best practice steps are.
First, you have to understand that there are two type of shine, physical and chemical. A physical shine will give you the best, longest lasting shine. Chemical shines are typically done between physical polishings to help maintain a look. The first 3 steps below will cover a physical shine, then the last 3 steps will cover a chemical shine. All steps can be used together in order. The first 2 steps are only recommended if you have paint that has never been cut before. It is also recommended that it be done by a pro.
If you have single-stage paint or 2/3 stage paints, they all start the same way. ***Note: Between each step, you MUST wash the vehicle and change your pads/rages.
Step 1 - If your paint shows heavy wear, you may want to start with wet sanding with a block of 1300 to 2600 grit paper to help clean-up major marks.
Step 2 - To get the sanding marks out or to get rid of cloudy paint/clear-coat, you want to use a 12" high speed orbital buffer with some rubbing compound. You will make the car look very dull, but it is a good starting point to get heavy scratches out and give the paint/clear a consistent pattern. I recommend 3M products for all of the polishing products with the exception of the final stage.
When using a buffer, you always want to make sure the buffer wheel edge you are using is spinning away from the edge of body panels. If the buffer is spinning into the lip, you will burn the paint off the edge, requiring a new paint job. You also want to be sure the buffer stays wet and is allowed to spin freely and as fast as possible. The slower and drier it gets, the more likely it is to burn a hole in the paint.
Step 3 - The next item you want to step up to would be a machine polish. Again, use a 12" high speed orbital buffer. 3M's Finesse-It works great. This will take the dull paint/clear and start to put a killer physical shine as it refines the general pattern in the paint. I recommend you polish the whole car twice with the machine polish to get a very clean look.
If you have lightly clouded paint/clear or light scratches, you can start with this stage. This stage can be used many, many times before requiring new paint/clear. I have cut "factory" paint on a Jeep 4 to 5 times a year for 6 years before needing some clear was needed. This is an extreme amount, but I used the truck for off-road recreation. I was polishing lots of heavy lines out.
Step 4 - Instead of using a basic soap and water for cleaning after polish, you want to start the chemical shine process now. Wash the car using a very soft cloth such as terrycloth. You want to use a soap/wax combo such as ArmorAll Ultra Shine Wash & Wax. Use a soft household bath towel to completely dry the car.
Step 5 A - If you have a single stage paint, you will get the best results from using a paste wax like Turtle Wax. Wax the vehicle by hand with a clean terrycloth applicator. Use a new, clean terrycloth to remove the wax after it completely dries.
It is important at this stage to use your hand to mimic the rotating action of the buffer to help maintain the physical shine during the application and removal of the paste wax. Repeat this step twice.
Step 5 B - If you have a 2/3 stage paint which requires "polish" instead of wax, I would recommend a cleaner wax made for clear coat. I use Meguiar's with great results. You will want to use a slower speed, 10" buffer for this application. For removal, take as much of the polish of the vehicle by hand with a terrycloth, then use a terrycloth buffing pad to refine the removal and get a great shine. If you have one of the extra fuzzy, really soft, "diaper for my baby" dry buffing pads, this is a great time to use it.
Repeat this step twice and you're done!!!
Depending on the level of oxidization and scratches, you can choose to start this process at any step. As long as you follow through to the end, you will be happy.
Last edited:
don_w
Dyno Numbers - Who Cares?
Wow, thats some great info!!..I usually have my detail dept at my dealership do it..One of the perks for being the General Sales manager...
But I wanted to do it myself for a while...So if my paint is like new, and I just want to put a good wax, not polish correct? Should I use a low speed orbital buffer to apply the Zymol, then use straight strokes with damp microfiber to remove?? Zymol says to spray the car when ur done removing the wax with cold water and dry with microfiber towel...neccesary? thanks in advance
But I wanted to do it myself for a while...So if my paint is like new, and I just want to put a good wax, not polish correct? Should I use a low speed orbital buffer to apply the Zymol, then use straight strokes with damp microfiber to remove?? Zymol says to spray the car when ur done removing the wax with cold water and dry with microfiber towel...neccesary? thanks in advance
That sounds right. With a new car and low miles, you should be focusing on the chemical shine. The other agressive stuff is for older cars (6-8 yrs) or cars that see harsh/extreme conditions.
I would use a low speed 10" buffer to apply the Zymol, then a hand cloth to remove it, but, if you use the buffer to apply it, you should use the same type of hand strokes to remove it. If you apply by hand, you would both apply and remove with long straight stokes.
The benefit of the buffer is if the car has road grime that does not appear to want to come off with the washing, the cleaner wax with the buffer will get it off. If you have a very clean car, doing it by hand with long straight strokes helps prevent swirl marks.
Now, with regard to a quick rinse, this will help clean the extra wax off, but you will lose some of the protection right off the bat. If you can avoid it by using a slow dry shag pad on the 10" buffer after removing as much as possible by hand.
Holy shit!!!
I just pay someone to wax mine... so much easier and quicker.
LOL...thanks bro.
If you start on step 1 and go to the end, an average car will take 40 to 50 hours to complete correctly...
Last edited:
don_w
Dyno Numbers - Who Cares?
No thanks... I don't have that much time (or desire). Hell, I don't even wash my own car.
Thanks for all the advice...Ill post some pics when its all done..I dont have any good angle pics of the car anywho...
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