I'm Lost and need some input!?!?

05mustang_TT_charged

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I have been having a problem with my car since the weather changed. It is hard to start and usually will run for a couple seconds then die. It seems to be fouling out the plugs and when I swap a new set in everything is fine for a little while. I have a new set of Brisk 1 heat range colder plugs in the car right now and it is acting like they are not even firing. I thought is was tune related and had the car back on the dyno to have everything checked out. We took 15% fuel out at idle and it worked for a little while but when datalogging it was showing when the car would go to closed loop it would add the fuel back in we took out.

I installed a new set of Brisk 1 heat range colder plugs and they haven't lasted long. It seems the car is flooding when trying to start and fouling the plugs.

I talked with a couple people today and no one could offer any real advice so I need to to know if anyone else has any opinions.

I am swapping from Full Lock Outs to Comp Limiters and a Custom Grind Cam. I am not sure if the Bank to Bank issue with A/F Ratio is from a cam that has moved in the lock out so I will be changing to the limiters. I also will have a leak down test done and compression test done to be sure there isn't any ring problems or valve problems.

Cliff Notes: Having starting issue still after swapping from Brisk 2 heat range colder to 1 heat range colder. Car will not fire over like ignition is not working. About to install Autolite HTO's gapped to .028" and see if I can get it running. Removing Mod Camponents Lock Outs and installing Comp Cam Limiters. Removing BBR Stage II Cams and replacing with Custom Grind.

Thanks for reading,
BJ
 
N

navbtcret

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Hold the gas pedal to the floor when you are trying to start the car. I had this issue once and this is what I did, the car started and idled rough for about a minute and then smoothed right out. This was in October and I have not had that issue since. Mine did this after going to the track and I shredded my belt at the 1000' mark.
 

05mustang_TT_charged

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I tried this but the car will not fire over. I think these plugs are fouled with 4 miles on them as it will not even act like it wants to start.

Pushing the pedal to the floor kills the injectors and fuel pump. It started like this a couple times buy not anymore.
 

Bobby

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you really dont want to do that. this is not a carb car you are putting in a bunch of fuel when you do that.

Hold the gas pedal to the floor when you are trying to start the car. I had this issue once and this is what I did, the car started and idled rough for about a minute and then smoothed right out. This was in October and I have not had that issue since. Mine did this after going to the track and I shredded my belt at the 1000' mark.
 

05mustang_TT_charged

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Opposite actually, when you push the gas pedal to the floor when key on or cranking it kills the fuel pumps and injectors. A carb car would flood as the accelerator pump in the carb would be dumping fuel if you tried this.
 

retfr8flyr

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I have had this problem with the cold range plugs. Once they get fuel on them they just will not fire. Put the stock HT plugs in and I bet it will fire up. I would run the stock plugs for the cold weather and then go to the colder plugs when the temps start getting normal.


Earl
 

94tbird

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you really dont want to do that. this is not a carb car you are putting in a bunch of fuel when you do that.

completely inaccurate. you really should know what your talking about before you post. When holing the gas pedal to the floor, the computer STOPS pulsing the injectors so NO fuel gets entered into the combustion chamber. This is not a carb car as you stated.
 

Bobby

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i just posted that based on what someone has told me in the past. and on a carb motor when it want start you hold the pedal on the floor and turn it over untill it starts. thsi is just stuff i have been told in the past, my bad
 

05mustang_TT_charged

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completely inaccurate. you really should know what your talking about before you post. When holing the gas pedal to the floor, the computer STOPS pulsing the injectors so NO fuel gets entered into the combustion chamber. This is not a carb car as you stated.

Ron do you have the limiters on your car or full lock outs? I am thinking if compression check and leak down test are fine I may have had one of the lock outs come loose letting the cam move and that is causing my bank to bank a/f issue.
 
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