Inquiring about RST/RXT information 2011+

jolambright

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I have searched all over the internet including these forums for this information so sorry if this has been posted somewhere that I have not seen. If another thread answers all of this please direct me to it.

Have 2012 5.0 with a T-56 magnum swapped about to have v3 installed pushing just over 600rwhp and going to have clutch installed and broken in before I have it put on. This vehicle is a daily driven and so I drive constantly in stop and go traffic. Most times I take the rpm's only to around 1-1.5k, maybe 2k sometimes, when starting out from stop. Like most people with DD cars they may slip the clutch quite a bit on start. I do not want a on/off clutch at all.

I was looking into getting the sprung hub version of the RST or RXT with a stock weight gt500 flywheel or possibly the heavy flywheel to make the 1st gear starts easier on the stop and go driving. I will get a McLeod flywheel.
From what I have read about these clutches they can have chatter when first breaking in but the sprung hub is supposed to reduce that and from what I have read having a heavier flywheel also helps with it because it holds more inertia and shocks the drivetrain less which means less shutter and chatter.

I do not ever plan on taking my car to a track. I do wot at least 3-5 times a week whenever passing someone, entering the freeway or just racing someone I encounter on the road, other than that I don't take the rpm above 3k much.

I guess my question is knowing how I drive and what I want I was thinking about getting the RST for its organic material so it is better for low rpm slipping on start and the heavier flywheel is supposed to help with that will the RST be just fine or should I use the RXT just for peace of mind just in case if the RST starts slipping when I do wot to redline.

So are the clutches good for slipping (not on/off) in stop in go traffic when starting using low rpm (1-1.5k)?
Is there much difference in the RXT from the RST in regards to this question.
Currently running a Stage 2+, almost thought about using the DYAD.

Thanks for any experience information, and/or positive feedback.
 

JUSTA3V

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I have. RST in my t56 magnum
650 rwhp. Track the car every weekend.

Not a whimper. But.... It vibrates at 1700 rpm if you lug it in a high gear. Always has and always will I'm told. It's the spacer plate that causes it.
 

jolambright

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I have. RST in my t56 magnum
650 rwhp. Track the car every weekend.

Not a whimper. But.... It vibrates at 1700 rpm if you lug it in a high gear. Always has and always will I'm told. It's the spacer plate that causes it.

How long have you had the clutch with that power. How often do you drive it besides at the track like around a city where there are multiple lights, traffic, etc. Does it slip just fine with no shutter or anything when slipping a lot at low rpm?


On another note since you have the T-56 the noise that I get in 4th-6th gear at low rpm I thought was from the transmission because I also have that and was told its normal. I run the spec stage 2+ and thought it was the transmission doing that.
 

JUSTA3V

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I drive it a lot in the street. No shudder from stop and go. Very street able.

My friend has the RXT and he says it's very street able as well.

I've ran RXT 's for 4 years now. This is my second.

My first was in my 3650. I still have that RST. THE 3650 blew up at the track on me.
 

skwerl

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I had the same considerations when building my Bullitt. I went with the RST and was very happy with it. The 'vibrations' mentioned were more of a rumble telling me that the drivetrain was not happy lugging along in high gear at 1700 rpm. Either downshift or speed up. I'd rather run at 2200-2300rpm instead of 1700-1800 rpm anyway. My engine seemed to respond better at least.
 

jolambright

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I had the same considerations when building my Bullitt. I went with the RST and was very happy with it. The 'vibrations' mentioned were more of a rumble telling me that the drivetrain was not happy lugging along in high gear at 1700 rpm. Either downshift or speed up. I'd rather run at 2200-2300rpm instead of 1700-1800 rpm anyway. My engine seemed to respond better at least.

But you don't have any issue at low rpm starting out and it slips like a stock clutch?
 

skwerl

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Very nice pedal, lighter than stock. Well, maybe not as light as the MT-82 clutches with spring assist, but it was a very light pedal with smooth engagement and solid grabbing power. I was running mid to high 10's as the track with 1.57-1.65 sixty foot times.
 

AlbertD

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I have been running the RXT in my car for the past 30k+ miles.

600+rwhp/tq, daily driven, a lot of stop and go traffic. Even with 3.31s out back and TR6060, it still takes off from a stop without an issue.
 

jolambright

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I have been running the RXT in my car for the past 30k+ miles.

600+rwhp/tq, daily driven, a lot of stop and go traffic. Even with 3.31s out back and TR6060, it still takes off from a stop without an issue.

Do you ever take out with rpm low around 1.5k slowly slipping it having any noise or shutter with the RXT?
I know you said it takes off without an issue I am just wondering if you take off at rpm or also at low and slowly slipping it having any problem at all.
Usually the RST is supposed to be more known to be easy on this than the RXT so I am curious if you have any problem with that at all.
Do you have the sprung or un sprung and which flywheel are you using aluminum, lightened steel or heavy/stock weight steel.
 

AlbertD

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The lowest I take off at is around 1.5k (typically closer to 2k), the clutch likes a faster slip.

If I try to sit there and slip the clutch slowly at low rpm, then yes it will shudder. Expected with the more aggressive material, but it is easily avoidable.

With my experience with the RXT, I would still choose it over the RST given that it still has plenty of street manners and better holding power.

I have the un sprung kit (MCL-6923-07) and heavy steel flywheel.
 

travelers

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Good reading as I have the RST and their flywheel waiting for me to put in with the T56 magnum XL. I just need to make up my mind if I'm going to stay 8.8 or 9'' to order the drive shaft.
 

skwerl

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Good reading as I have the RST and their flywheel waiting for me to put in with the T56 magnum XL. I just need to make up my mind if I'm going to stay 8.8 or 9'' to order the drive shaft.

Unless you're planning on more than 700hp then the 8.8 and a TrueTrac will serve you fine.
 

travelers

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Unless you're planning on more than 700hp then the 8.8 and a TrueTrac will serve you fine.

Not planning on going that big. I'll talk to a chassis builder we used to back half out race car and have the tubes welded.
 

06redgt

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Very nice pedal, lighter than stock. Well, maybe not as light as the MT-82 clutches with spring assist, but it was a very light pedal with smooth engagement and solid grabbing power. I was running mid to high 10's as the track with 1.57-1.65 sixty foot times.

Were you running the stock 10 spline 3650? I'm getting ready to buy a RST/RXT and was debating if I should go 26 spline. Right now I'm procharged with 502 at the wheels, but that might go up slightly since I'm tempted on trying meth injection.
 

jolambright

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The lowest I take off at is around 1.5k (typically closer to 2k), the clutch likes a faster slip.

If I try to sit there and slip the clutch slowly at low rpm, then yes it will shudder. Expected with the more aggressive material, but it is easily avoidable.

With my experience with the RXT, I would still choose it over the RST given that it still has plenty of street manners and better holding power.

I have the un sprung kit (MCL-6923-07) and heavy steel flywheel.

I'm curious how much of the clutch pedal are you able to slip the clutch? Like one inch or like two.
Like if it's very grabby does that mean it grabs it smooth without jerking but can't slip it much with the pedal.
Take for instance if you want to move the car forward just one foot forward are you able to give it just a little gas and just slip it for a second or two an inch on the clutch pedal and it will slowly start rolling or is it once it grabs you have to immediately take foot off the gas and press clutch to just let it roll from the grab if only moving the car a foot.
 

skwerl

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Were you running the stock 10 spline 3650? I'm getting ready to buy a RST/RXT and was debating if I should go 26 spline. Right now I'm procharged with 502 at the wheels, but that might go up slightly since I'm tempted on trying meth injection.

No, that was in my T56 Magnum.
 

AlbertD

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I'm curious how much of the clutch pedal are you able to slip the clutch? Like one inch or like two.
Like if it's very grabby does that mean it grabs it smooth without jerking but can't slip it much with the pedal.
Take for instance if you want to move the car forward just one foot forward are you able to give it just a little gas and just slip it for a second or two an inch on the clutch pedal and it will slowly start rolling or is it once it grabs you have to immediately take foot off the gas and press clutch to just let it roll from the grab if only moving the car a foot.

It's not on/off, it is capable of being slipped... you just can't sit there and slip it for a long period of time like you could a factory setup.

I've had an on/off clutch before in my GT and this is nothing like that. The RXT is perfectly capable of everyday stop/go type driving. I love it.
 

jolambright

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It's not on/off, it is capable of being slipped... you just can't sit there and slip it for a long period of time like you could a factory setup.

I've had an on/off clutch before in my GT and this is nothing like that. The RXT is perfectly capable of everyday stop/go type driving. I love it.

If you try to slip it for a long time what happens? And what do you consider a long time for that.

Sorry to ask so much in depth just trying to figure out what you mean.

I am heavily considering getting the sprung hub rxt with heavy steel flywheel for smoother all around including low rpm engagement since the RST seems almost as limited on slipping as well and can't push the engine as much without problems happening according to McLeod when I asked them. Even if a lot of people claim that they still use it at the track sometimes. I would rather pick one that I don't have to worry about it down the road.
I am going to be doing a rear gear swap from 3.31 to 3.55 anyway and the v3 should help just a little down low so those should make up for the heavier flywheel, I already have the Dynotech driveshaft with the T-56.
 

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