Internal coolant leak, need some help on this one...

[sportinawoody]

As the problem that may of occurred to the O.P. I would bet that they hand tighten the head studs, I know we did but I still had a leaky head bolt, that was an easy fix with some ARP sealant.

I'm assuming your refering to arp sealant on the bottom threads ? wouldnt that change the torque values even though the bottom half is hand threaded ? I'm just wondering because my block has just finished all its prepping/machining with arp top to bottom.

 

[Wild White Pony]

I'm assuming your refering to arp sealant on the bottom threads ? wouldnt that change the torque values even though the bottom half is hand threaded ? I'm just wondering because my block has just finished all its prepping/machining with arp top to bottom.

Yes just the bottom threads get the sealant, the top threads is where you want to use the ARP oil so you have accurate torq readings. I know some people use reg oil too with success but I use the ARP oil and the ARP assembly prep just for peace of mind even if it means spending money on something that you may or may not need.

I use to have a build link from a few years ago with a the builder saying you should put sealant on the bottom threads, I don't know for sure how close the head bolt threads are to the cooling jacket, I do know that out of 3 Aluminators we built only one had a couple leaky head studs. The motor in my car is the one that had the leaks, after pulling the leaking studs sealing and re-torqing the head bolts it's been 2 years now and she still runs great, they have had numerous threads here about torqing the head bolts, too much and you distort the cylinder walls, ARP instructions say 100 FT LBS. but check with your performance shop they may say to go 80 or 90lbs, to much may be causes for leaks I couldn't answer that for sure though.

Tell ya what I'm always going to use that sealant, it was a pain in the rear to fix it afterwards, to drain the block on the passenger side the drain plug is right under the motor mount where you can't get too and that mount is a PIA to get out.

 

[one eyed willy]

Someone on here actually cut their block in half to show the crack they had and the passages, I'll try to find it.

Edit:

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101666&highlight=Cracked+block+arp&page=4

 

[Wild White Pony]

^ This is disturbing since I had coolant that leaked up the ARP head studs. I must have some kind of crack going on just like the one shown in the block cut away. I don't have any noticeable cracks on the outside of the block where MoneyPit showed. I know this cause I just put in Prothane motor mounts a month back and used that drain plug.

Well, I've been buying parts for a new 46X build, seems like it's only a matter of time till this goes to hell so on the bright side of things at least progress has been made already for the replacement motor. I'm planning on a max of 20psi on the 46x and I'll just go with the TTY bolts.

Have 2 years running on this current motor that had the leaking head studs that I fixed with thread sealant. 18psi 554rwhp and my original 5R55S trans so I'm not gonna complain when this motor goes. Dammit..

A week ago before I started the spring cam swap I pressurized the coolant system to 20psi, 24 hrs later I still had the 20psi. I may have a small corner crack to the stud, the stud that was leaking is second from last(Firewall) on the passenger side but on the top. From Moneypits pic of his he had it on the lower which looks to have water passage on both sides of the stud hole. Not much meat on the lower portion and you think would be much easier to crack, the drain plug being the 3rd weak link. Maybe the only reason I'm getting away with this so far is that from the top stud hole to the outside of the motor is much thicker. Now that I've made this theory and no wood close to knock on I most likely will be doomed soon.

Thanks One Eye Willy for that link and thanks Moneypit for that great wealth of info about this problem.

 

[jonnieguns]

The motor was torn down and inspected, no faults were found. The leak was found coming from the passenger-side gasket (Cometic). I got everything cleaned up, reassembled with new gaskets, new fluids, and a retune for my new MAF. I have some feedback for my tuner, but the car runs well.

 

[dysan]

Good to hear you found the issue but I hope you didn't use cometic gaskets again. They for some reason don't seem to work well on the 3v engines. Felpro or OEM (which are the same) are the best.

 

[jonnieguns]

No, sir. Felpro this time. I wish the lesson could have been cheaper. I definitely appreciate everyone's input.

 

[Wild White Pony]

The motor was torn down and inspected, no faults were found. The leak was found coming from the passenger-side gasket (Cometic). I got everything cleaned up, reassembled with new gaskets, new fluids, and a retune for my new MAF. I have some feedback for my tuner, but the car runs well.

Great News! glad this worked out and you caught it before melt down.

No, sir. Felpro this time. I wish the lesson could have been cheaper. I definitely appreciate everyone's input.

Can't go wrong with Felpro and you really did come out on the cheaper end for a lesson like that.

 

[weather man]

Relief!!!!!!

 

[ummduh]

Edit: should read the whole thread first.

 

[jonnieguns]

FWIW, I ended up with 485rwhp/511rwtq on a Dyno Dynamics, aka "the heartbreaker".

Thanks again. A lot of knowledgeable guys on the forum.