Cooling Fan High Speed Relay BEC melted

[Morereps]

Would this be the correct way to wire the relay? The Hi wire is gr/violet and the Lo is DB. These two wires are located under the BEC in the block closes to the fire wall which is yellow in color. Would this be accurate for those who have done this?

 

[sportinawoody]

No. Reread my post

 

[Morereps]

Would this be the correct way? If this isn’t correct, could you email me the the correct way to achieve this? I would greatly appreciate it. My email is [email protected]. I can pay you if you would like payment for your knowledge.

 

[sportinawoody]

the trigger from ecu is a ground. what does ground need to complete a circuit ? power aka 12volts. you should have one battery source fused, other side to your fan resistor. the switched side of the relay needs ignition on power, and the ecm wire to the other side since that provides ground and turns the relay on, THENNNNNNN, BAMMMM, 12 volts from your battery supplied larger gauge wire, is supplied to your fan resistor and viola!!!! let there be wind

 

[sportinawoody]

in your diagram, you have an ecm controlled ground feeding into a chassis ground.

 

[Morereps]

Ok I got you! Thanks for your help and your patience. I greatly appreciate it... Sportinawoody you rock!

 

[sportinawoody]

everything is right except the circled blue should be ignition switched voltage and this should be your small gauge wire side and obviously that load side(large gauge wire) marked fuel pump, should be to one side of your fan resistor. Hi or lo. 2 relays should be wired in, one for lo one for hi and ecm activates one of these circuits for a/c also so no need to go digging there

 

[Morereps]

everything is right except the circled blue should be ignition switched voltage and this should be your small gauge wire side and obviously that load side(large gauge wire) marked fuel pump, should be to one side of your fan resistor. Hi or lo. 2 relays should be wired in, one for lo one for hi and ecm activates one of these circuits for a/c also so no need to go digging there


View attachment 74982

Ok cool!!! Now I just have to find ignition switched voltage in the engine bay.....lol Thanks again sir.

 

[Morereps]

everything is right except the circled blue should be ignition switched voltage and this should be your small gauge wire side and obviously that load side(large gauge wire) marked fuel pump, should be to one side of your fan resistor. Hi or lo. 2 relays should be wired in, one for lo one for hi and ecm activates one of these circuits for a/c also so no need to go digging there


View attachment 74982

Success!!!!!!! Everything worked out perfectly. I successfully wired both Hi and Low speeds to external relays! Thanks for all the helpful information and hats of the you again sir.

 

[Awad Alibrahim]

everything is right except the circled blue should be ignition switched voltage and this should be your small gauge wire side and obviously that load side(large gauge wire) marked fuel pump, should be to one side of your fan resistor. Hi or lo. 2 relays should be wired in, one for lo one for hi and ecm activates one of these circuits for a/c also so no need to go digging there


View attachment 74982

I know it's been a while since this forum has had any activity, but I have a question regarding the ignition voltage. How much does it have to be exactly? Is 12V enough? Also, will air conditioning work directly with this wiring or do I have to add an extra circuit? Because I hooked up the relays externally to check if the fans worked, they did but the AC compressor wouldn't trigger. However I still have to connect the fans in this way. I am just asking so that I can buy any extra necessary things.

 

[DieHarder]

Engine must be running. AC circuit is separate from the fan but provides a trigger to turn the fan on when AC is activated. The moment you turn on the A/C (via the button/switch) the radiator fan should spin (unless already on at low/high speed) and stay on until the AC is turned off. If it doesn't you need to determine why. Output from the alternator (measured across the batt) should be around ~14v with the engine running.

 

[Rangel_17]

On the back side of that connector, there is a 12 gauge green/violet wire. You need to cut and connect to a 40 amp relay. Run 10 gauge from your battery with a 40 amp fuse to your relay. Then cut and use the wire that comes from the computer that normally triggers the factory relay to trigger your new relay, I believe it is a smaller green/violet wire.

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=40&viewfile=Cooling Fan.pdf

I bought the new upgraded cooling fan resistor from the dealership that runs cooler that the ceramic previous design that got too hot and drew too much current overheating the wires and melting connections. However, I want to fix this problem permanently by adding 2 external relays. Sooo...

I ran a 10 gauge wire with a 40A fuse to be my hot at all times power source to both relays' 30 terminal.
Spliced the 87 terminal of the low speed relay to the LTGRN/YEL wire and the high speed to the LTGRN/VIO wire going to the fan.
The low speed 86 terminal to the DK BLU wire relay trigger and the high speed 85 terminal to the LG/VIO relay trigger off the BEC-C1035b.
I'm having trouble finding a way to wire the "Hot in Start or Run" wires to the relays any help with this issue would be greatly appreciated!!!!



(I used 5 pin relays so I eliminated the 87a pin, not neededfor this application)

 

[Rangel_17]

Ok cool!!! Now I just have to find ignition switched voltage in the engine bay.....lol Thanks again sir.

This is what I'm having trouble with I wired the relays all I need to wire up is the hot on run 12v power supply, any help/pics of the wire you used for this please

 

[Morereps]

You can find switched 12v power in the fuse box