Cooling Fan High Speed Relay BEC melted

mineralgoogt

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Making this thread and will update as I go.
I am having issues with my cooling fan stopping after driving for a while.
I pulled the fuse block apart and have found my BEC below the high speed fan relay melted.

I have searched through many forums and found this is not uncommon. I have repaired the connection with a new terminal end in the BEC. I notice that the relay is getting hot to the touch even after repairing the terminal end. There has to be a reason this relay is getting this hot. Everyone seems to think it has something to do with the fan temp settings in the tune. I don't believe so. The fan runs constantly with the A/C on regardless of temp settings I believe? So if the fan running constantly would cause this, people in the south would all have this problem. I am now going to check my ground to the fan, check amperage pull, and connections. Any input is appreciated.
 
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mineralgoogt

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Ok, tested ground and no resistance. Checked connections all good. Voltage to fan is over 12 volts. Car has run over 3 hours with the a/c on and fan running. Fan did not turn off once. Also, need to correct my previous statement about fan speed with a/c. Fan turns on low until reaches certain temp and then high speed kicks on regardless of a/c on or off. Relay does get very hot, but there are several other relays that do get about that hot in the fuse box. Maybe corrosion in the wire that I replaced was causing increased load on that circuit. I guess only time will tell if problem is resolved. If it happens again I will update.
 

TexasBlownV8

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This is indeed a common issue, and a bit of a poor design.

The high speed will come on when temp gets higher than when low-speed comes on. Also depends on the speed of the car.

I was having cooling issues at one time, and wired in some indicator led's to see when the pcm was activating the fans and at which speed, low or high, as well as wiring in a switch where I could manually turn on the fan and show that power was going to the fan.

the middle set of 3 led's show this, in my customized console:
100_0663-s.jpg


By the bec, I have separate relays mounted for low and high speeds, and use the bec signal to trigger the appropriate relay, or use the switch in the console to manually turn on the fan if the pcm is not turning it on.
 

V8 Vol

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Welcome to the club....it is indeed the fan settings. The only "fix" is to wire an external relay and have your fan speeds returned to stock.

I no longer have my car, but I had a 170* thermostat, with the external relay, stock fan speeds and rarely had the high speed come on, which is normal.


"Can you see me, am I clear to you, picture me rollin"
 

tmcolegr

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This is indeed a common issue, and a bit of a poor design.

I was having cooling issues at one time, and wired in some indicator led's to see when the pcm was activating the fans and at which speed, low or high, as well as wiring in a switch where I could manually turn on the fan and show that power was going to the fan.

By the bec, I have separate relays mounted for low and high speeds, and use the bec signal to trigger the appropriate relay, or use the switch in the console to manually turn on the fan if the pcm is not turning it on.

Welcome to the club....it is indeed the fan settings. The only "fix" is to wire an external relay and have your fan speeds returned to stock.

I no longer have my car, but I had a 170* thermostat, with the external relay, stock fan speeds and rarely had the high speed come on, which is normal.

I too had this same issue - cooling fans working intermittently. I ended up using a very high quality normally open coolant temp switch that threads (3/8" NPTF) directly in to the Saleen water crossover manifold between the cylinder heads. The switch closes when coolant temp reaches 197.6* and remains closed until the coolant temp drops to 181.4*. The coolant switch, when closed, activates a NAPA Lighting 40 amp 4 pole relay (Part# 194) which turns on the FRPP 2013 GT 500 High Performance Cooling Fan (M-8C607-MSVT). The fan is wired to run on high speed. I am using the stock thermostat which is 180* for the 2005 MY vehicle.

I also have a toggle switch which can manually turn on the fan.
 

RocketcarX

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If it's melting contacts and such, wouldn't it stand to reason the fan motor is pulling too many amps? I mean, maybe the motor is just wearing out.
 

07 procharger

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As I understand it, its the thingy that mounts to the fan shroud (resistor??) that plugs into the fan itself that goes bad, and in turn starts to draw too much, I replaced that as well as adding the fuses.
 

tmcolegr

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That is a metric shit ton of amps for almost any fan. It shouldn't run at a consistent 20 amps. MAybe 10 with an initial spike some where around 30ish.

The brand new 2013 GT 500 fan pulls 24.5 amps continuous with a start up of 30 amps

The 2005+ MY vehicles use a 40 amp fuse for the fan circuit
 
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Makdaddy

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This is indeed a common issue, and a bit of a poor design.

The high speed will come on when temp gets higher than when low-speed comes on. Also depends on the speed of the car.

I was having cooling issues at one time, and wired in some indicator led's to see when the pcm was activating the fans and at which speed, low or high, as well as wiring in a switch where I could manually turn on the fan and show that power was going to the fan.

the middle set of 3 led's show this, in my customized console:
100_0663-s.jpg


By the bec, I have separate relays mounted for low and high speeds, and use the bec signal to trigger the appropriate relay, or use the switch in the console to manually turn on the fan if the pcm is not turning it on.


AGHHH I need that console setup
Im still fighting overheat issues after my turbo build
Im still on the 192 T Stat and i get 235 on my Interceptor when the AC is on
Would be nice to know the fans status like you have here
 

mitch

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Well... After a day of flogging it on the track, and a 2 hour drive home with the a/c on, I have the same issue!
Thanks to One Eyed Willy for directing me to this thread...

So, for a "lay person" like me... How do I resolve this issue?? Any help would be great.

By the way, the car ran great at Sebring! (WTB: GT500 Brembos :)

Heres mine:
 

one eyed willy

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On the back side of that connector, there is a 12 gauge green/violet wire. You need to cut and connect to a 40 amp relay. Run 10 gauge from your battery with a 40 amp fuse to your relay. Then cut and use the wire that comes from the computer that normally triggers the factory relay to trigger your new relay, I believe it is a smaller green/violet wire.

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=40&viewfile=Cooling Fan.pdf
 

mitch

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Thanks again Paul, youve been a big help!!
So, I went to my local ford dealer. They only sell the entire block with all the fuses and relays installed..!?! Does that sound right?? They want $325. for it?
 

one eyed willy

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Thanks again Paul, youve been a big help!!
So, I went to my local ford dealer. They only sell the entire block with all the fuses and relays installed..!?! Does that sound right?? They want $325. for it?

i would just bypass the block, save the $325 because its just going to melt again.
 

fdjizm

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Where do you get new terminals ends?

I remember seeing a melted little guy when I was installing my wotbox but I am not sure if it was that spot may check it again this weekend.
Nothing has been going wrong with the car in years so not sure if it's a concern or not.
 

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