IronX

BlackSunshine

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Anybody ever use this stuff?

Ironx.jpg
http://www.eshine.ca/cquartz_ironx_32oz-3504.php

I have heard good things about it, but wanted some personal opinions.
 

NastyStang113

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It just depends on if you've got iron containments on the car. Personally, I had little to none. I think it's a great product for brand new cars and neglected cars. It still might be worth it prior to a big detail. I don't regret using it by any means.
 

BlackSunshine

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It just depends on if you've got iron containments on the car. Personally, I had little to none. I think it's a great product for brand new cars and neglected cars. It still might be worth it prior to a big detail. I don't regret using it by any means.

Thanks Bud. I have a feeling I probably need it quite a bit. My car is a daily driver for the summer and needs a pretty serious paint correction, but don't really have the time. I think I'm gonna give it a go. :cheers:
 

NastyStang113

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Have you ever done a full detail on your car like what I did in my thread? Have you ever clayed it? Another good product is the IZ W99 that is in my thread. It's in the washing part of my thread, check it out. It's a citrus based soap that is perfect to use after the Iron-X. I simply used it in the foam cannon as a "post-rinse" after a initial wash, andthan use of Iron-X.
 

BlackSunshine

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Have you ever done a full detail on your car like what I did in my thread? Have you ever clayed it? Another good product is the IZ W99 that is in my thread. It's in the washing part of my thread, check it out. It's a citrus based soap that is perfect to use after the Iron-X. I simply used it in the foam cannon as a "post-rinse" after a initial wash, andthan use of Iron-X.

I have, but not to the extent you have. I've only done it once, and tbh, was not happy with the job I did. Bassically, I washed, clayed, ran over the car with a Lake Country orange pad on my Portercable with Poorboys SSR 2.5, then white pad SSR 1.0, then a shot of Klasse AIO and Seleant.

Took me FOREVER, and I wasn't happpy with the cut on the paint as I could not get all the swirls out of it like I had hoped. 10 Hours of going at it for the results I got, to say the least, I was not overly impressed.

Now I am content with average looking paint, products that will mask impefections for a while rather than correct. I was interested in the Iron X because I have seen certain imperfections, i guess you would call them, in my paint, especially on my hood. They look kind of like spots. Firgure it might be deposits, and I have not clayed the car in a long time, so I was gonna Clay and Iron X it to see if it helped at all. I will look into that product you advised and see what it is all about. Thanks again bud, appreciate it.
 

NastyStang113

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You clay the car first and then use the IronX right??? I think I might get those two confused.

No you want to use the Iron-X first during your initial wash. This removes any iron containments from the paints surface prior to claying to make claying easier and quicker. You'll want to wash the car like you normally do to get it really clean. Than spray the car down with Iron-X, agitate the product after 2 minutes and than rinse the car really good. When Iron-X is working it's going to do the same thing as Sonax FE Wheel Cleaner and turn from Red. After you've rinsed it you should do another soak with the foam cannon. This is where I used the IZ Einszett W99 in the foam cannon as a post-rinse and just let it sit on the car for 2 minutes and rinsed really, really good.
 

NastyStang113

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Sounds like you have a good plan. Figure a bottle of Iron-X isn't that expensive to make sure you don't have any iron containments in your paint. That's how I look at it anyways.
 

allinon72

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I'd be using it if I got a brand new car that was shipped via rail!
 

Seer

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My detail process was:

1.) Wash with Citrus Wash and Clear (LSP Stripping mix)
2.) Wash with Iron-X
3.) Foam Cannon with Citrus Wash and Clear
4.) Clay bar
5.) Hours of Wet sanding
6.) Hours of compounding, polishing and finishing
7.) Apply C-quartz
8.) Apply three coats of Zymol Vintage
 

Seer

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I didn't realize you could apply a wax over C-Quartz.


most certainly can. You maintain the properties of the wax as your LSP though. Waxes can bond to anything. So when my vintage wears away I still have the c-quartz beneath it, as Vintage looks a lot better than Cquartz does.

Cquartz reminds me of zaino, stale and reflective.
 

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