Kenne Bell fuel rails

[SUHleen]

Hey guys,

I'm getting a triple pump setup from On3 for my 05 mustang (keep the hating off the thread, Chad is local to me and I've known him for a while). I have a 2.6L kenne bell. I'm probably going to go turbo this winter, but want to see what I can do with my Kenne Bell and some e85 since if I do go turbo, I will be doing e85 so may as well do it now.

Currently, I am on a single pump Walbro drop in setup with 80 lb injectors, everything else fuel related is OEM. I know most if not all aftermarket fuel rails do not work with the Kenne Bell because the diverter valve hits. My question is, which of the fuel rails requires the LEAST amount of modification to fit? Or, has anyone found a set that will clear the diverter valve? I want to avoid doing the meth/nos plate that BBR sells because my hood clearance already is tight and I do not want to get into doing too much work if I do end up going turbo this winter.

Any ideas or thoughts?

 

[blownGTvert]

Just pick the aftermarket fuel rail of your choice. Plug the rear port on the driver side rail. Then drill/tap, or weld, a new fitting in the side of the rail forward of the bypass valve. Note in the pic of my car using Aeromotive rails. However, the Fore or UPR rails are the best for this as they are square with more surface area on the side.

This is your only option when going to a return fuel system with a KB blower.

 

[SUHleen]

Just pick the aftermarket fuel rail of your choice. Plug the rear port on the driver side rail. Then drill/tap, or weld, a new fitting in the side of the rail forward of the bypass valve. Note in the pic of my car using Aeromotive rails. However, the Fore or UPR rails are the best for this as they are square with more surface area on the side.

This is your only option when going to a return fuel system with a KB blower.

Damn man, that setup is sick! Is that the 2.8 or? And who did the cog drive setup? Lastly, what kind of boost and power do you make? I considered going bigger blower because everyone is going turbo now and I already have two turbo vehicles and I like options haha

I'd like aeromotive because they flow the most fuel from what I have read. Was it difficult to do with yours? But thanks for that info! It will definitely make it way easier with that method.

 

[blownGTvert]

KB 2.8, DOB dedicated belt drive, 17psi, 7xx rwhp.

I can machine a new set of rails for you, and install the AN fitting. Send me a PM if your interested.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

I think 07BLACKstang used aeromotives on his install of my former 2.6L. I used CPR rails, but had to slightly modify the BPV actuator to move out of the way a little.
So, you not only have to handle the FRPS, you have to be aware of fitment for the BPV, which can be a problem if the FRPS sensor is near there on the rails.

Fortunately, almost any aftermarket rail will fit, as long as you can turn it around if need be, and put the connectors on either end of the rail.

I also suggest thinking about how you'll want to run your fuel lines when you go back to a non-KB intake, and set them up that way now, if there's room. For the rails on my KB, I used a 180 to on the fuel line feed into the front of the rail, then a 90 on the back of each rail, running the connecting line behind and under the blower.
Whatever you do now, you should be able to do with a stock or frpp intake, and just move your fuel rails to that setup.

BTW, the only thing I really miss about the KB is the insane instant torque, which can't be beat! And, the whine..well, that was wicked too. The turbos are quieter, and have a little lag, but once they kick in, the torque is insane!

So, for others who have not maxed out their KB, and who love the instant torque, I'd recommend staying with the KB, until it simply can't keep up with your power needs.

 

[SUHleen]

I think 07BLACKstang used aeromotives on his install of my former 2.6L. I used CPR rails, but had to slightly modify the BPV actuator to move out of the way a little.
So, you not only have to handle the FRPS, you have to be aware of fitment for the BPV, which can be a problem if the FRPS sensor is near there on the rails.

Fortunately, almost any aftermarket rail will fit, as long as you can turn it around if need be, and put the connectors on either end of the rail.

I also suggest thinking about how you'll want to run your fuel lines when you go back to a non-KB intake, and set them up that way now, if there's room. For the rails on my KB, I used a 180 to on the fuel line feed into the front of the rail, then a 90 on the back of each rail, running the connecting line behind and under the blower.
Whatever you do now, you should be able to do with a stock or frpp intake, and just move your fuel rails to that setup.

BTW, the only thing I really miss about the KB is the insane instant torque, which can't be beat! And, the whine..well, that was wicked too. The turbos are quieter, and have a little lag, but once they kick in, the torque is insane!

So, for others who have not maxed out their KB, and who love the instant torque, I'd recommend staying with the KB, until it simply can't keep up with your power needs.

BlownGTvert is going to be hooking me up with some correctly modified fuel rails. That is going to be a great help for me!

I'd like to avoid going turbo, but I feel my power demands are starting to get up there. Also, I'm throwing belts left and right and the motor seems to run a little hot with the KB (interesting though cause the KB coolant does not get super hot, I can touch the tank for a few seconds no problem while the motor coolant tank I can't even touch because it is so hot). Currently I'm at 610 rwhp on about 15/16 psi on the 2.6. But, I'm on pump gas and use the stock intake tube. I feel with a new intake tube, e85, and smaller pulley, I can hit around 700 and maybe 20 psi. I'm told it can't be done from blown because he had a 2.6 before he stepped up to the 2.8 and speaks from experience but I'm going to try. I have a small 35 shot for cooling also that I was planning on using once I go e85. If I can hit around 700 without nos and more with nos after I go e85 that will keep me happy for a bit. I bought the piping you told me to a while ago to convert my stock KB intake tube but was not able to make room for it I'll have to mess with the fuse box some more.

 

[Timmbo]

I have a complete Fore Stage 4 fuel system. I took the driver side Fore rail to a machine shop and had them mill a tapered "v" cut at the rear of the rail to clear the bypass valve assy. Opinions vary widely on this from tuner to tuner, but I wanted the regulator AFTER the rails. So I had the machine shop weld a male AN fitting to the hole I drilled on the side of the rail for the return fuel to the regulator. I'm running dual AEM 1200 pumps on E85 with a boost switch bringing in the second pump under load. Very happy with this setup. No issues whatsoever.

 

[SUHleen]

Damn Timmbo that is a nice setup! That is what blown is doing for me, drilling a hole on the side of the rail and moving the return line. What is your duty cycle on the fuel setup? I'm going with a triple pump setup from On3 (pretty much a copy of one of Fore setups from what I have seen). My buddy runs one of his e85 pumps and maxed out at about 500 wheel so three should be plenty if I don't plan on going over 1000 wheel. I'm not sure how far my 80 lb injectors will go though.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

You shouldn't be throwing any belts if all the pulleys are aligned right, and the tensioner is good and strong. I too was at the 15/16 psi range, on pump gas, and then with the 2.75" pulley got up to 18 psi, using the stage II tb and larger custom intake pipe. That was pretty-much max'd out. On the dyno through the 4r auto, Lito got it right at 600 to the wheels.
IMO, at those higher boost levels, the heat is just going to be there, compared to other setups. Although, when i was in boost and had more air flowing over the heat exchanger, it cooled the air charge down a decent amount.

I'll be curious about how far your injectors can take you, too, as I'm using 80's as well, but still on pump gas, and going to e85 eventually.

Keep us posted!

 

[Timmbo]

Damn Timmbo that is a nice setup! That is what blown is doing for me, drilling a hole on the side of the rail and moving the return line. What is your duty cycle on the fuel setup? I'm going with a triple pump setup from On3 (pretty much a copy of one of Fore setups from what I have seen). My buddy runs one of his e85 pumps and maxed out at about 500 wheel so three should be plenty if I don't plan on going over 1000 wheel. I'm not sure how far my 80 lb injectors will go though.

Thanks. I don't remember what my current duty cycle is on the injectors. I do know though at my power level I do have some room to grow with what I have. I'm assuming you have FRPP 80lb injectors? From what I remember, people pushing 700 rwhp were at the 85-95% DC range on those. If you know your eventually going to want 900 -1000 rwhp you'll want to look at some ID 1300 injectors. Otherwise for 700-850 rwhp ID 1000's in my opinion are the way to go. I'm sure there are cheaper options out there as well.

 

[SUHleen]

You shouldn't be throwing any belts if all the pulleys are aligned right, and the tensioner is good and strong. I too was at the 15/16 psi range, on pump gas, and then with the 2.75" pulley got up to 18 psi, using the stage II tb and larger custom intake pipe. That was pretty-much max'd out. On the dyno through the 4r auto, Lito got it right at 600 to the wheels.
IMO, at those higher boost levels, the heat is just going to be there, compared to other setups. Although, when i was in boost and had more air flowing over the heat exchanger, it cooled the air charge down a decent amount.

I'll be curious about how far your injectors can take you, too, as I'm using 80's as well, but still on pump gas, and going to e85 eventually.

Keep us posted!

I'm at a higher number on smaller psi but through a tr6060 and not as good intake pipe but I do have the 130mm intake and ported intake elbow. The smaller pulley I have is 2.75" so I'm interested to see how much boost it makes compared to that setup you are talking about. I need to get fans for my heat exhanger and a better radiator fan to help with the heat.

As far as the belts, the pulleys all seem to be aligned I've narrowed it down to either being too tight of a belt, the thump_rrr tensioner (uses stock 55# spring compared to UPR that uses 75# spring), the reichard racing pulley, or a combination of the lot.

Thanks. I don't remember what my current duty cycle is on the injectors. I do know though at my power level I do have some room to grow with what I have. I'm assuming you have FRPP 80lb injectors? From what I remember, people pushing 700 rwhp were at the 85-95% DC range on those. If you know your eventually going to want 900 -1000 rwhp you'll want to look at some ID 1300 injectors. Otherwise for 700-850 rwhp ID 1000's in my opinion are the way to go. I'm sure there are cheaper options out there as well.

I believer they are the FRPP I'm not 100% sure though it has been about 4 years since I got them. 700 rwhp on e85? That will get me by for now but I was expecting I needed to go to 1000's or 1300's eventually. If I can get by through the end of the year on the 80's though that would be perfect.

 

[07 Boss]

I wanted to move the FRPS off the rail to make room for some future mods. With the Aeromotive set up I went with relocates the sensor onto the distribution block but you can locate it wherever you want. You can see how uncluttered the rails are.






And you can see where the FRPS has been rlocated to the lower right of this pic.

 

[SUHleen]

So is it the FRPS that hits the bypass valve, or the rail itself?

@TexasBlownV8 you posted this thread stating the bypass valve had to be modified, is that before people were moving the FRPS?

 

[blownGTvert]

So is it the FRPS that hits the bypass valve, or the rail itself?

@TexasBlownV8 you posted this thread stating the bypass valve had to be modified, is that before people were moving the FRPS?

The Aeromotive rails don't hit the bypass valve. These rails don't have provisions for the FRPS. But FRPS isn't required for a return system. However, they sell a separate "fuel sensor block" if you want to retain the FRPS. Look at my pic above and you will see I threaded the fuel block directly into the front of the drivers rail.

 

[SUHleen]

The Aeromotive rails don't hit the bypass valve. These rails don't have provisions for the FRPS. But FRPS isn't required for a return system. However, they sell a separate "fuel sensor block" if you want to retain the FRPS. Look at my pic above and you will see I threaded the fuel block directly into the front of the drivers rail.

Hmmm, the 2.6 and 2.8 bypass valves are different and on the 2.8 its a little different location I wonder if it will get in the way with your rails?

 

[blownGTvert]

Hmmm, the 2.6 and 2.8 bypass valves are different and on the 2.8 its a little different location I wonder if it will get in the way with your rails?

The bypass valves are exactly the same in both 2.6 and 2.8 kits. In fact, even the lower manifold is the same.