Kidd's official Turbo build thread (Jennifer gets BOOST)

[Bobby]

Actually h beams are stronger. The differance is the manleys arent billet they are just forged. So if it came down to billet h beams or billet i beams for the same price i would go with h beams. And that is coming from someone who used oliver billet i beams. But the price of the billet h beam is quite a bit more.

 

[JoshK]

I was referring to an off the self 4340 H-beam vs a billet I-beam. I would imagine a billet I-Beam would be stronger than a 4340 H-Beam?

I just feel now that the engine I built would be your everyday built engine and an ARP, Billet Pump, billet Rods, P&P Heads engine is a full out race build.

 

[BruceH]

Thats a good question, maybe they have a deal worked out with ford.






$15k?! Is that including labor?

I plan on doing new gaskets, oil pump, etc.but as long as my timing components are ok I plan on reusing them as well as keeping my stock heads with maybe some stiffer springs, I haven't decided on that yet. If I build my own SB I'll basically be following Bruce and Josh's SB builds.

Ford hasn't made the aluminum 4.6 for over a year. Nobody has them.

After my experience building the engine that I have now, if I were to go all out and build an engine with stage 3 heads, arp everything, I would not put h-beam rods in it. If I were to shot for the power that needed all that I would definetly do billet I-beam rods and probably o-ring the block too.

My engine has had as much as 21.5lbs of boost through at it and has not missed a beat. It hasn't been to a track yet, but believe me when I say that when it gets out it gets beat on.

The full race build would be the one that gets torn down on a regular basis to check and or replace bearings and get a good look at all the parts. I think that people forget or don't know what is required to maintain a super high hp build.

The engine you built should handle any power level that will also be used for normal driving. Most would probably disagree but I am of the opinion that a good dd mid hp build doesn't have to be an all out, spare no expense ordeal.

 

[JoshK]

^^very true. If I want to actually have fun with the car without worrying about eeverytime I jump on it I keep it at about 12 lbs. Anything more takes a lot of concentration at all times.

 

[crownaviation]

IIRC China is involved in most of the "affordable" H-beam rods... including the Manley. When you buy the Manley I-beams they are manufactured entirely in the NJ plant here in the USA. Obviously this was done as a cost effective measure to compete with the scat rods etc..

Always check tolerances etc for yourself no matter where the parts are manufactured even tho the USA stuff likely has way better quality control before it arrives at your doorstep

And good advice earlier... big power stuff needs to be inspected and requires way more preventative maintenance than the moderate build. My magic number is 700 but that is my opinion only. I noticed more wear above that mark as expected.

 

[BruceH]

IIRC China is involved in most of the "affordable" H-beam rods... including the Manley. When you buy the Manley I-beams they are manufactured entirely in the NJ plant here in the USA. Obviously this was done as a cost effective measure to compete with the scat rods etc..

Always check tolerances etc for yourself no matter where the parts are manufactured even tho the USA stuff likely has way better quality control before it arrives at your doorstep

And good advice earlier... big power stuff needs to be inspected and requires way more preventative maintenance than the moderate build. My magic number is 700 but that is my opinion only. I noticed more wear above that mark as expected.

I've read that Manley stopped making the h beam forgings a few years ago and went to the Chinese ones. The Chinese forgings are good. Most are finish machined in the US. I have no proof of that other than advertisements. A local shop does finish machining, puts arp2000 bolts in and sells them for $300 shipped. That's got to be hard to compete with.

 

[crownaviation]

I've read that Manley stopped making the h beam forgings a few years ago and went to the Chinese ones. The Chinese forgings are good. Most are finish machined in the US. I have no proof of that other than advertisements. A local shop does finish machining, puts arp2000 bolts in and sells them for $300 shipped. That's got to be hard to compete with.

My machine shop is a dealer for Manley and that is what he told me^^

 

[Kidd]

After some careful consideration I decided to pick up the shortblock that RJ linked a few weeks back.
Next step: pull my poor ventilated stock motor out lol

 

[jodadejss06gt]

Glad you are picking up that block. Are you going to build it?

 

[Kidd]

Yes that's the plan, but thats about as far as the plan goes right now lol. I need to decide what rods and pistons to go with, compression etc. I also need to find a good machine shop close to me, otherwise I'll be taking it to Tn to RJ's machinist.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Good to see you taking this route! ...watching with interest...

 

[jodadejss06gt]

http://www.modmaxracing.com/product_p/man594300c-8.htm

So you can easily run 93! I chose the higher cr because I can run e-85 and have stations close. Not sure If I want to run it all the time, so I'm going to have it tuned for 600-650 on 93 and keep it there. Then have my big hp tune come with e-85.

The rods that are going in my car are an h-beam that my builder has used a lot of. He's put this rod combo in many many many mod motors(supposedly he's built 200+ motors for Mike Rousch). He said they've been in 1000hp cars and I think I'm getting them with arp2000 bolts for under 500. You can Manley on Mod Max for 589, but then its an extra 100 for the good bolts.

If you PM me I could check with the builder or you could give him a call and see if he can get you a set of rods.

 

[JoshK]

I have the modmax branded H-beams in mine. They come standard with arp2000 rod bolts

 

[jodadejss06gt]

^^Yea if I were buy rods myself rather than letting my builder use the rods he has faith in, I would have gone with those. Good price too at 499.

 

[Bobby]

Here are the ones i would get. I had a set and they are top notch. Plus you get arp 2000 bolts with them.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/171207545161?nav=SEARCH

 

[Sprayer84]

Man that's cheap


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bobby]

Yes and a good rod.

 

[Makdaddy]

Here are the ones i would get. I had a set and they are top notch. Plus you get arp 2000 bolts with them.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/171207545161?nav=SEARCH

HOLY ROD batman thats cheap

 

[Torched S197]

Mike Taylor machine in somerset is a very reputable shop. He's done quite a few motors for a lot of people on kyhp

 

[Kidd]

Good to see you taking this route! ...watching with interest...

Thanks Mike. I still hate that we couldn't work anything out on the car, I know it would have went to a good home. Plus your one of those people that seems like such nice guy that I wanted to just give the car to you LOL

http://www.modmaxracing.com/product_p/man594300c-8.htm

So you can easily run 93! I chose the higher cr because I can run e-85 and have stations close. Not sure If I want to run it all the time, so I'm going to have it tuned for 600-650 on 93 and keep it there. Then have my big hp tune come with e-85.

Thanks Jason I'll take those into consideration.

I have the modmax branded H-beams in mine. They come standard with arp2000 rod bolts

Thanks Josh I'll check those out.

Here are the ones i would get. I had a set and they are top notch. Plus you get arp 2000 bolts with them.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/171207545161?nav=SEARCH

Thanks Bobby, how would the Boss rods compare to these?

Mike Taylor machine in somerset is a very reputable shop. He's done quite a few motors for a lot of people on kyhp

Ok Thanks Brad, do you know if has built any mod motors?