Kooks LT header install: hardware question...

[1fastTbird]

I have been a member of many other Mustang forums for a long time, but recently found S197forums and have seen a lot of great information being shared here.

After reading through many posts regarding LT header installs, and while I clearly understand that it will be a tough job that requires extreme patience, it is a job that I am going to attack in my own garage. I consider myself a novice when it comes to working on cars, but I can closely follow instructions and utilize resources available to get the job done. I have completed easy upgrades like rear lower control arms and front brake upgrade, but this will be the most involved undertaking.

I purchased a set of used Kook's LT's, which did not come with hardware.
With that said, due to my lack of experience with exhaust hardware and varying opinions from the articles I have read, what should I use for header bolts/studs?

I have read to use stock studs/bolts. Is that reusing the actual original pieces or just order new replacement Ford parts? There are members who say that you "may have to cut/trim the stock studs to fit." Can anyone elaborate on that? Should I chase the holes to clean out any grit and thread lock and if so, what tool do I use? I am planning on using the Percy's Seal-4-Good #66081 gaskets.
Since I saved some money on the headers, I am willing to spend a couple dollars on hardware and tools to make the install a once and done job.

 

[Phil1098]

I did this last fall and have been working on cars and motorcycles for 40 years (I'm 56). Did it in my garage on ramps. I kept reading 8 hour job and I just rolled my eyes. Yup, it was an 8 hour job.

I bought my Kooks LTs new so they came with bolts. I was just going to reuse some/all of the stock studs, but once things got going I said screw it and took every one of them out and used the bolts that Kooks sent. You will see when you put the header up in there, the tubes block so much of your working room it is just easier to use the bolts. I never had any leaks (used FRPP header gaskets) but I have tightened them a couple times figuring the gaskets would crush some with heat cycles and pressure. I didn't use thread locker and the stock studs didn't have any either.

I would call Kooks and buy the bolt kit for them if it were me.

 

[ghunt81]

I put JBA's in my car a few years ago, I also did it in my garage on jackstands. It's not bad, just make sure you get the car high enough off the ground that you have enough clearance to get the headers in and out. I've actually had the headers out and back in since the initial install.

Anyway, yeah a lot of people say to just reuse the stock studs but I figure all that effort of putting the headers in, seeing what studs will hit, removing those studs and cutting them down, etc...it's easier to just use bolts IMO. On my JBA's you could run most of the bolts in with a ratchet, there were only a few I had to use a wrench on.

FWIW, on my first install I used regular flanged head bolts with FRPP gaskets, when I put them back in I used Stage 8 locking bolts and the Percy's gaskets. I honestly don't know if you need the locking bolts as none of the regular bolts were even loose after a year+ of driving, but that's up to you (the tabs and c-clips are admittedly a little tough to put on the Stage 8 bolts).

I didn't chase any holes, just threw everything in there with no issues.

 

[Mach2burnout]

Stage 8 bolts are a pita, but getting to the bolts are anyway and the S-8s are a little insurance. Percy gaskets or new Ford replacements. It is a time consuming install. Take your time, mark your parts/bolts and make notes so you don't forget to tighten important stuff. Get the car as high as possible on ramps or jack stands and lower the engine a couple of inches.
I don't recommend ever using thread locker on any exhaust bolts and never on anything that has threads into aluminum such as heads, etc. chances are if you do, the next time you take it apart you will have to drill and heli-coil because the threads will be ruined.


Sent from iPhone

 

[1fastTbird]

Thank you for your responses and your help. I hope to get the project started (and finished) this weekend. I ordered hardware from Kook's as the consensus of Stage 8's being a PITA are enough to make me stay away as a first time installer.

I'll check back in to share any thoughts, tricks, and tips from the install.

 

[Wes06]

Be prepared to want to punch babies by the time your done
Hah

 

[deebo05]

one thing I found helpful is to use the stock studs on each end to hang the gaskets and headers while you get the rest started.

 

[ghunt81]

I would hope Kooks have slotted holes on the ends so you can start the two end bolts in the gasket to hold the gasket on, then hang the header on the bolts.

OH YEAH, wear some kind of gloves because there's a lot of crap in there that will scrape the hell out of the back of your hand. Fingerless mechanics gloves will give you the best feel if you're like me and hate wearing gloves when you work on stuff.

 

[Phil1098]

I would hope Kooks have slotted holes on the ends so you can start the two end bolts in the gasket to hold the gasket on, then hang the header on the bolts.

They do, no need with Kooks to use any of the studs.

 

[dv8uagain]

Be prepared to want to punch babies by the time your done
Hah

His hands will be way too sore for any baby punching when he's finished lol

I did the stage 8's as well. Did mine when the K member was out which makes it a lot more enjoyable. Still kinda sucks either way...

 

[ghunt81]

I did find with the Stage 8's that the clips were MUCH easier to install if you installed them across the flats of the bolt head- you could push them on with your finger.

I didn't like the fact that Stage 8 gives you exactly zero extra clips OR the little "tangs" that go on the bolts (they include short and long ones- but the 4.6 has to use the long ones, the short ones are too short to actually contact the tubes). If you lose one clip, which I almost did, you're off to the hardware store to try to find extra ones. If you lose a "tang" you're SOL.

 

[Mach2burnout]

I did find with the Stage 8's that the clips were MUCH easier to install if you installed them across the flats of the bolt head- you could push them on with your finger.

I didn't like the fact that Stage 8 gives you exactly zero extra clips OR the little "tangs" that go on the bolts (they include short and long ones- but the 4.6 has to use the long ones, the short ones are too short to actually contact the tubes). If you lose one clip, which I almost did, you're off to the hardware store to try to find extra ones. If you lose a "tang" you're SOL.

Hum, I thought mine came with some extras. I'll have to look tomorrow.


Sent from iPhone

 

[1fastTbird]

I have some older mechanic's gloves which I am going to cut the finger tips off. I will also add some height to my homemade wooden ramps to get the front end higher than my jack stands will allow.

 

[ghunt81]

Hum, I thought mine came with some extras. I'll have to look tomorrow.

I'm curious to know. Mine came with exactly 16 clips, 16 long tabs or tangs or whatever you want to call them, and 16 short tabs which I didn't even use.

I have some older mechanic's gloves which I am going to cut the finger tips off. I will also add some height to my homemade wooden ramps to get the front end higher than my jack stands will allow.

FWIW, if you don't want to cut the fingertips off your gloves Home Depot has fingerless gloves for $15. They used to carry the Greasy Monkey brand of fingerless gloves for $10, which I've gone through a couple pairs of because I keep tearing them up, but I didn't see them there last time I was in the store.

Also I bought 3 ton jack stands just for my header install so I could get the car to the height I needed.

 

[palanza7]

so i just did a dynatech LT install yesterday and today. yeah.. lots of patience. i did it on ramps and blocks of wood, on a cement floor with cardboard lol. I had no air tools either, but dear lord an air ratchet would make this so much nicer. Prepare for a lot of time to be spent just figuring out the best way to gain access to certain bolts.

12 Hours or so later ive got the new LT's in and the full exhaust clamped in.

I'm going to try and heat cycle the engine ones before I take it down to try and catch any loose bolts.

Anyone know if you can start/idle with the motor mounts off and it floating on a floor jack? lmao

 

[ghunt81]

Honestly my first time around I just snugged all the bolts as best as I could with an open end wrench. A year later only two of them took a little less force than the rest to break loose, they were all still plenty tight.

 

[Phil1098]

Honestly my first time around I just snugged all the bolts as best as I could with an open end wrench.

I used every damn wrench in my tool box that fit to get to all of mine. Open end, box end, box end ratcheting, box end ratcheting with swivel heads, etc. I never could get a real angle on the number eight cylinder bolt to the front.

 

[Wes06]

Yea
I'm glad my engine is coming out so I can do it on the engine stand this time
Fuck doing them in the engine bay

 

[ghunt81]

The ones I had the most difficulty with was the bottom front passenger side one since it's right against the AC compressor, and the bottom rear driver's side one...had to get creative there as the header tube and everything else blocks it from most angles. The rest were pretty easy.

 

[808muscle]

13mm ratcheting box wrench, a must with a header install.