SteamRollin
Junior Member
Hello, I'm new to Mustangs and picked up a 2008 5spd GT w/ 187k miles about 3-4 months ago. I've slowly been working all the gremlins out of it but it is drivable and freshly serviced. It came with a FRPP Hot Rod camshaft NIB but I have yet to install it. I found and follow Brenspeed and Four Eyes on YouTube and hear that an individual by the name of "Lito" is who everyone recommends for tuning. I think I'd much rather go with the Brenspeed Detroit Rocker camshafts instead of the FRPP camshafts. I've been considering selling the FRPP ones but don't really know how much TO sell them for, but it would be even better to find someone who's wanting to get rid of NIB Detroit Rocker camshafts and just make a trade lol. I really like the sound of Four Eyes' exhaust at his Stage 2 build, which I believe was made up of the Kooks LT headers w/ catted X-pipe and the Pypes Pypebomb axleback. Does anyone know if the Pypebomb is similar to the Flowmaster Outlaw Axlebacks?
Aside from the cams, exhaust work, and a tune, it just needs a brake upgrade and ac system work. I'm learning the hard way about the "black death" from the ac compressor. In the process of replacing ac system components to solve the issue, I unfortunately contaminated all the new parts with the black death crud. Flushed three times already and still can't get it to go away so I will be trying to flush the entire system once more with paint thinner or buying all new parts and lines again in the future. The brakes will likely be what I work on next assuming I don't find those Kooks LTs on sale somewhere online. I'm pretty sure the wheels on this Mustang won't fit over the big brake 6 piston calipers as they are the black 18x10 or x9" saleen style wheels. Does anyone know if the 4 piston GT500 calipers with correct corresponding rotors will clear the 18" saleens?
- Caliper Part # 97B17947A & 97B17947B
- Rotor & Pad Set # CRK4547
I know there are videos and threads on the diy brake upgrades but I don't know if I'll need spacers or not to clear the wheels and also what stainless brake lines will fit this either. If I do have to go with bigger wheels then I think I may have to lift the car since it has a drop on it. I don't know how to determine how much more wheel will fit before rubbing becomes an issue.
As mentioned earlier, I've been pretty busy sorting out gremlins. I'll list what all I've completed in case anyone else happens to stumble upon this post in searching for potential solutions.
Cruise Control Switch : Driver side foot well area, it was mistaken for being the cause of an occasional sticky brake light.
All 4 Blend doors : Driver side one was a living nightmare.
Driver Lock Switch : Had a broken circuit board.
Battery : Was time for replacement.
Key Fobs : After replacing the car battery, the key fob was erased and could not get the car the relearn the original fob. Order 2 online and still couldn't get them to learn the fobs. After a week of digging, I found that the fob learning module was tied into the SJB fuse box in the passenger foot well area. Removed it and found traces of corrosion caused from a possible previous water leak. I disassembled and sprayed with electronic contact cleaner and let air dry before reinstalling. That fixed the issue of the key fob relearning not working.
AC System : Replaced 90% of the entire system in the wrong order so I'll be doing that all over again.
Horn & Fog Light : Poorly done wiring job was the culprit, fixed.
Fuel Gauge Stepper Motor : What originally was thought to be a fuel pump issue, ended up only being a bad stepper motor on the gauge cluster. Easy fix with soldering iron and new motor.
Passenger Seat Switch : Was missing, replaced and works as intended.
I've also replaced all spark plugs, ignition coils, changed oil, cleaned CAI and ran a standard (dry) compression test. The numbers were higher than I hoped to see but I think they're still within tolerance. Here were the results of that:
1 - 102
2 - 107
3 - 123
4 - 114
5 - 125
6 - 103
7 - 115
8 - 127
I look forward to talking shop with you all and learning more about this platform.
-Steam
Aside from the cams, exhaust work, and a tune, it just needs a brake upgrade and ac system work. I'm learning the hard way about the "black death" from the ac compressor. In the process of replacing ac system components to solve the issue, I unfortunately contaminated all the new parts with the black death crud. Flushed three times already and still can't get it to go away so I will be trying to flush the entire system once more with paint thinner or buying all new parts and lines again in the future. The brakes will likely be what I work on next assuming I don't find those Kooks LTs on sale somewhere online. I'm pretty sure the wheels on this Mustang won't fit over the big brake 6 piston calipers as they are the black 18x10 or x9" saleen style wheels. Does anyone know if the 4 piston GT500 calipers with correct corresponding rotors will clear the 18" saleens?
- Caliper Part # 97B17947A & 97B17947B
- Rotor & Pad Set # CRK4547
I know there are videos and threads on the diy brake upgrades but I don't know if I'll need spacers or not to clear the wheels and also what stainless brake lines will fit this either. If I do have to go with bigger wheels then I think I may have to lift the car since it has a drop on it. I don't know how to determine how much more wheel will fit before rubbing becomes an issue.
As mentioned earlier, I've been pretty busy sorting out gremlins. I'll list what all I've completed in case anyone else happens to stumble upon this post in searching for potential solutions.
Cruise Control Switch : Driver side foot well area, it was mistaken for being the cause of an occasional sticky brake light.
All 4 Blend doors : Driver side one was a living nightmare.
Driver Lock Switch : Had a broken circuit board.
Battery : Was time for replacement.
Key Fobs : After replacing the car battery, the key fob was erased and could not get the car the relearn the original fob. Order 2 online and still couldn't get them to learn the fobs. After a week of digging, I found that the fob learning module was tied into the SJB fuse box in the passenger foot well area. Removed it and found traces of corrosion caused from a possible previous water leak. I disassembled and sprayed with electronic contact cleaner and let air dry before reinstalling. That fixed the issue of the key fob relearning not working.
AC System : Replaced 90% of the entire system in the wrong order so I'll be doing that all over again.
Horn & Fog Light : Poorly done wiring job was the culprit, fixed.
Fuel Gauge Stepper Motor : What originally was thought to be a fuel pump issue, ended up only being a bad stepper motor on the gauge cluster. Easy fix with soldering iron and new motor.
Passenger Seat Switch : Was missing, replaced and works as intended.
I've also replaced all spark plugs, ignition coils, changed oil, cleaned CAI and ran a standard (dry) compression test. The numbers were higher than I hoped to see but I think they're still within tolerance. Here were the results of that:
1 - 102
2 - 107
3 - 123
4 - 114
5 - 125
6 - 103
7 - 115
8 - 127
I look forward to talking shop with you all and learning more about this platform.
-Steam
