Longevity of 4.6 - 61,000 miles - pull plugs now, or wait?

[crjackson]

Is this an issue that only the 3v engines have, or do some of the 2v engines use these plugs as well?

 

[Deathstang II]

Is this an issue that only the 3v engines have, or do some of the 2v engines use these plugs as well?

As far as I know it's just the 3v's from 05-06. Ford redesigned the heads on 07-09. I've wanted to convert my heads from ones out of a yard just so I don't have to deal with it in the future. Gives me the opportunity to just go ahead and replace gaskets.

 

[crjackson]

As far as I know it's just the 3v's from 05-06. Ford redesigned the heads on 07-09. I've wanted to convert my heads from ones out of a yard just so I don't have to deal with it in the future. Gives me the opportunity to just go ahead and replace gaskets.

Thanks, the reason I ask, is because I used to have an ‘04 GT and I don’t recall having to deal with this when changing the plugs. I seem to recall getting at 1 of the plugs was very difficult, but I don’t remember any other concerns.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Is this an issue that only the 3v engines have, or do some of the 2v engines use these plugs as well?

Just the 3V engines built up to 30 November 2007. The 2V engines had a different problem with spark plugs being blown out of the heads because the threaded portion in the heads was too short.

I've wanted to convert my heads from ones out of a yard just so I don't have to deal with it in the future. Gives me the opportunity to just go ahead and replace gaskets.

You could just invest in a set of Brisk one-piece plugs and that would solve your problem without the hassle of changing the heads (unless you want to port the junkyard heads and upgrade the valve springs for a future cam swap).

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Just FYI: Never apply anti-seize to the threads, as that affects the torque values. Only apply nickel anti-seize to the ground barrel electrode shields!

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Is this an issue that only the 3v engines have, or do some of the 2v engines use these plugs as well?

Only the early 3v engines built up to November 2007.. All 2v engines had the standard 12mm one-piece design spark plugs.

As far as I know it's just the 3v's from 05-06. Ford redesigned the heads on 07-09. I've wanted to convert my heads from ones out of a yard just so I don't have to deal with it in the future. Gives me the opportunity to just go ahead and replace gaskets.

Wrong!!! Ford redesigned the heads after November 2007 on all mid 2008 3v and up models.. Prior to November 2007, all 2005-early 2008 3v cars all had the older style heads/plugs.

 

[Deathstang II]

Just FYI: Never apply anti-seize to the threads, as that affects the torque values. Only apply nickel anti-seize to the ground barrel electrode shields!

Funny enough I still coat mine for the head problem alone, the plugs on these cars tend to bottom out pretty easily (In my case), so over torqueing is probably a rare occurrence (but a 20% increase, guess 'yuh wouldn't know). No amount of plug plating seems to matter and will still end up getting locked up into the head. It's a damned if you do damned if you don't situation with these cars and I know the risks of putting A-S on the threads. Never thought about nickel A-S though, Have to look into it, I'm open to suggestions to a better solution.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Never apply anything other than high-temp nickel anti-seize on these plugs, as copper and aluminum along with platinum do not mix very well at all.

 

[CGGuy09]

I feel silly even weighing in… but I will. I’ve got an O7 Shelby GT, low miles, talking about 20k.

Always premium fuel with sea foam on an erratic but consistent basis.

I’m going to change them this year… Following Ford’s process, but probably using PB blaster. The plugs are fine, it just seems like unnecessary risk to leave them in.

After that, I’ll probably pay for some after market single piece plugs…. It seems like the single pieces, while a f-ton of money, are better about not breaking. (That’s what I’ve read).

I’m in the habit of using anti-seize in all spark plugs (I’m a motorcycle guy)… And, I’ll maintain precedence on this occasion.

I’ve done some research, and I know it’s like asking what brand. Of oil to to use, but I need to figure out what brand to go with…Ford is out of the question, champion has mixed reviews.

The only other alternative is to ask a dealer to Pull them and toss Anti-seize on them. Not sure how long it would take or cost… but I’ve got to get my air bag replaced still. But, if that were done, I think it would be worth my time and I’d keep them in a few more years.

 

[86GT351]

Unless you know for certain the previous owner changed the plugs? I would change them now just to be on the safe side, rather than risk any potential separating thanks to Ford's poor design of the 2005-early 2008 two-piece spark plugs. Also make certain to follow the recommended Ford TSB extraction procedure as well.

TSB link is provided below.



https://www.aa1car.com/library/ford_tsb_08-7-6.pdf

I agree with this. Unless you have proof of them being done, why not do some basic maintenance on the car so you have a baseline to start with. The plugs are hit or miss. I have also done many sets with most coming out with no issues. If one breaks, you deal with it.

 

[86GT351]

Never apply anything other than high-temp nickel anti-seize on these plugs, as copper and aluminum along with platinum do not mix very well at all.

Correct. Below are the part numbers ford suggest. One is the Anti-Seize lubricant. Second is also important for the Coil Boots. Apply a very small amount of the Dielectric grease to the end before re-installing.

Item Specification
High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant
XL-2 ESE-M12A4-A


Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound
XG-3-A ESE-M1C171-A

 

[Deathstang II]

Correct. Below are the part numbers ford suggest. One is the Anti-Seize lubricant. Second is also important for the Coil Boots. Apply a very small amount of the Dielectric grease to the end before re-installing.

Item Specification
High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant
XL-2 ESE-M12A4-A


Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound
XG-3-A ESE-M1C171-A

Lookin like I'm pulling my plugs again to remove the copper stuff lol. Nickel Seize is hard to come by around here. Auto stores carry just regular...

 

[86GT351]

Lookin like I'm pulling my plugs again to remove the copper stuff lol. Nickel Seize is hard to come by around here. Auto stores carry just regular...

It is suggested to use the Nickel Seize due to the metals involved. Using the wrong lubricant can actually make it worse to get out.

 

[Deathstang II]

It is suggested to use the Nickel Seize due to the metals involved. Using the wrong lubricant can actually make it worse to get out.

Yeah, hearing all the negativity on this thread about it. It seems its actually not so much the threads that get locked up to the block as it is the shielding. Got more educated about it. So makes sense why youd use nickel seize on the shielding rather than threads.

Id imagine taking out these plugs with ease after 100k miles would be: Get car warm, put some penetrating oil down into the plug, wait 10 min., work at plug and hope both the seize and oil did its job.

 

[86GT351]

Yeah, hearing all the negativity on this thread about it. It seems its actually not so much the threads that get locked up to the block as it is the shielding. Got more educated about it. So makes sense why youd use nickel seize on the shielding rather than threads.

Id imagine taking out these plugs with ease after 100k miles would be: Get car warm, put some penetrating oil down into the plug, wait 10 min., work at plug and hope both the seize and oil did its job.

That's basically it. Sometimes they cooperate, sometimes they don't

 

[Pentalab]

I feel silly even weighing in… but I will. I’ve got an O7 Shelby GT, low miles, talking about 20k.

Always premium fuel with sea foam on an erratic but consistent basis.

I’m going to change them this year… Following Ford’s process, but probably using PB blaster. The plugs are fine, it just seems like unnecessary risk to leave them in.

After that, I’ll probably pay for some after market single piece plugs…. It seems like the single pieces, while a f-ton of money, are better about not breaking. (That’s what I’ve read).

I’m in the habit of using anti-seize in all spark plugs (I’m a motorcycle guy)… And, I’ll maintain precedence on this occasion.

I’ve done some research, and I know it’s like asking what brand. Of oil to to use, but I need to figure out what brand to go with…Ford is out of the question, champion has mixed reviews.

The only other alternative is to ask a dealer to Pull them and toss Anti-seize on them. Not sure how long it would take or cost… but I’ve got to get my air bag replaced still. But, if that were done, I think it would be worth my time and I’d keep them in a few more years.

Did the 07 Shelby GT use 2 x piece plugs ?? If they did, replace em with Brisk 1 piece plugs, problem solved. Just make damned sure they are gapped correctly, before installing.

 

[Mach2burnout]

Yeah, hearing all the negativity on this thread about it. It seems its actually not so much the threads that get locked up to the block as it is the shielding. Got more educated about it. So makes sense why youd use nickel seize on the shielding rather than threads.

Id imagine taking out these plugs with ease after 100k miles would be: Get car warm, put some penetrating oil down into the plug, wait 10 min., work at plug and hope both the seize and oil did its job.

Have the Lisle tool on hand, you usually break less.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Deathstang II]

Have the Lisle tool on hand, you usually break less.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All went fine, I recently just put regular seize on the threads a few months ago so they came out fairly easily no issues. Went ahead and took the advice and took off all the old seize and sanded the shield plating of any corrosion build up and lightly coated it in nickel seize and put not even a very very small bit on the threads and put that bitch back in. Mission success.

Tell you one thing though....I sure as shit don't like sweating my ass off in Houston humidity lol.

 

[crjackson]

All went fine, I recently just put regular seize on the threads a few months ago so they came out fairly easily no issues. Went ahead and took the advice and took off all the old seize and sanded the shield plating of any corrosion build up and lightly coated it in nickel seize and put not even a very very small bit on the threads and put that bitch back in. Mission success.

Tell you one thing though....I sure as shit don't like sweating my ass off in Houston humidity lol.

Good job, and congratulations on your success. Did you do all that work right there at the cemetery, just in case you killed the engine ;-)

 

[Deathstang II]

Good job, and congratulations on your success. Did you do all that work right there at the cemetery, just in case you killed the engine ;-)

Ooof god no, I hope I never run into any major issues with this engine. Because as we know the 3Vs can either be complete junk or be extremely reliable (obviously hugely depends on maintenance). The girlfriend you're constantly having to give you undivided attention and money to in order for her to treat you right lol.