djbigskrilla
Junior Member
Good day folks,
Okay, I want to be as clear and as detailed as possible so this will be a long read (sorry up front, but I know it will help you all understand the circumstances and help me in the long run). I will start off with the beginning and take it from there. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Here we go, this all started roughly 2 months ago. I had been putting a lot of hard miles on my car (2009 GT/CS) roughly 200 miles per day with lots of stop and go driving (I am a district manager for a news paper I have open routes that I am having to run thus delivering those papers nightly and putting lots of miles on the car). I took the car in for an oil change after having ran all night long. No issues what so ever as usual. After leaving the Oil Service Center, I took it in for a quick wash at an automatic wash. Again no issues all was fine. Upon leaving the wash and heading home I noticed a very high pitch whine (similar to a super charger) the noise would increase in pitch as you accelerated, and would decrease in pitch when decelerating. I made it home thinking it was possibly my antenna not being screwed in good / possibly cross threaded and that I was getting road noise through the radio. I checked that out and ruled it out as the issue. Upon doing another test run just down the road from the house I could not get the car to replicate the issue. So I turned around thinking maybe it was just me. Then it started again on the way home. So, I called some services places figured out it was likely in the Trans.(REMINDER NO CHECK ENGINE OR ANY OTHER LIGHTS WERE ON AT THIS POINT). I lined up a trans shop to look at it and in the long run was told I needed a new trans. (all bearings inside, input and output shafts with bearings, synchros, 5th gear all needed to be changed). So I sourced out a trans with 17K miles on it, ordered a new clutch kit etc. After the Trans was delivered, the clutch kit shows up (one of the employees took my newly purchased clutch kit, loaded it onto a truck with cores and shipped it off. It was sent back after the weekend, and installed). After the clutch and trans were finally installed we thought there was a problem with the trans not being bled fully as the clutch would not fully disengage, the car sat for 3 weeks at the shop with this same issue. It would have continued to sit there until I was called to get the car or to have it put back on the lift and checked to which they would have to charge me labor fees again. I wasn't having any part of that but wanted my car fixed. So I finally was able to get a hold of the owner of the shop voiced my concerned about them wanting to recharge me labor to check and fix any issues after all of the issues with clutch kits being shipped out, not knowing if it was the same clutch I ordered, no way to prove it was factory defective now, and warranty being voided on those parts etc. I was able to get them to take the trans back out and it was found that I had a defective pressure plate, a new clutch kit was ordered and installed (new parts and labor of no cost to me).
This is where things get to the point I am at now. When I picked up the car I had a Check Engine light on. We all assumed that it was possibly a cause of them working on the car and unplugging things and it would likely reset it self (at first the car ran fine just had the check engine light on). So after about 2 more weeks the light has not gone off. Occassionally, the car will want to stall out and die, during this time it idles rough and after a few moments the car runs fine again. Though I do seem to be burning a lot more gas than I should, and I can smell it being a bit on the rich side. So I pull into my local O'Reiley's and have them check the codes for me. The list below is the codes they were able to pull:
p0135 - O2 Heater Circuit Bank 1, Sensor 1
p0155 - O2 Heater Circuit Bank 2, Sensor 2
p1000 - on-Board Diagnostic OBD System Rediness Test Not Complete
The First 2 Codes deal with O2 sensors one possible fix was to replace Fuse #47 (I checked the current fuse it looked okay but replaced anyway)
The Last lists 4 different reported fixes everything from: Clean Throttle Body (which I did do), performed emission monitor drive cycles, performed powertrain control module (PCM) Programming, and Replaced Fuel Pump w/P2106,P2135.
Again I changed the fuse, and cleaned the throttle body this made no difference.
All that leads me to TODAY 8/7/15! I again went to take off for work and same as usual here over the last couple of weeks, however, I went to pull onto the highway and the car fell on its face. It would barely accellerate, when I finally did get going it had no power, it simply felt like someone cut off the power to the car. I was ale to get going and got up to highway speeds though it was sluggish. I never noticed it on my way into the office however, I eventually noticed the Wrench Light came on while on my way home. Upon some research I found that this is a Limp Mode. To which my car has all the symptoms of. I noticed you can't use cruise control, and for whatever reason (this does not seem like it should be related to limp mode but possibly so) the A/C stopped blowing cold all of a sudden (I live in south Louisiana the temps are pushing 100 daily right now the A/C is needed!!! LOL!). The fan speeds work fine and warm air will blow out but no cold air. The A/C light is on, I have not checked the fuse for it nor do I know which one to look for but that wouldn't be too difficult to find out. So I again went by my local O'Reiley's and had them pull the codes again since the Limp Mode light came on. The following is the list of codes that were pulled from this instance: *PLEASE NOTE* THE PREVIOUS CODES WERE NOT CLEARED AS THEY WOULD NOT CLEAR THEM FOR ME! ALSO, THESE ARE THE CODES THAT PULLED UP AND I AM ONLY LISTING THEM ONCE THOUGH MANY OF THESE APPEARED MULTIPLE TIMES!!
p0155 - O2 Heater Circuit Bank 2, Sensor 1
p0446 - Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit
p2008 - Intake Manifold Runner Control IMRC Circuit Open Bank 1
p2196 - O2 Sensor Signal Biased Stuck Rich - Bank 1, Sensor 1
p0135 - O2 Heater Circuit Bank 1, Sensor 1
p0010 - Intake Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit Open Bank 1
p0020 - Intake Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit Open Bank 2
p0102 - Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Low
p0132 - O2 Circuit High Voltage Bank 1, Sensor 1
In doing my research (The Little I was able to do today before posting this) it's stated that the Wrench Light (Limp Mode) typically is caused by a bad or going bad Throttle Body, However, if you look at the codes there are quite a few that point to O2 Sensor problems, I also know that one issue may cause other unrelated codes to populate so it could be any of a number of issues causing the codes which is why I need you guys help.
Though the above may be the case for the codes I will not rule out the fact that I may have a loose plug / bad connection on an O2 sensor that was the fault of the Trans shop. To be perfectly honest, I really don't know where to begin my search to getting the issue resolved. I am hoping that you all can help me get to the bottom of this. I really can't afford nor do I want to start changing O2 sensors and replacing a Throttle Body or vice versa if I do not have to (while the new throttle body would be nice to upgrade it is not in the budget at the moment, especically when most require a tune afterwards).
Again any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Justin
Okay, I want to be as clear and as detailed as possible so this will be a long read (sorry up front, but I know it will help you all understand the circumstances and help me in the long run). I will start off with the beginning and take it from there. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Here we go, this all started roughly 2 months ago. I had been putting a lot of hard miles on my car (2009 GT/CS) roughly 200 miles per day with lots of stop and go driving (I am a district manager for a news paper I have open routes that I am having to run thus delivering those papers nightly and putting lots of miles on the car). I took the car in for an oil change after having ran all night long. No issues what so ever as usual. After leaving the Oil Service Center, I took it in for a quick wash at an automatic wash. Again no issues all was fine. Upon leaving the wash and heading home I noticed a very high pitch whine (similar to a super charger) the noise would increase in pitch as you accelerated, and would decrease in pitch when decelerating. I made it home thinking it was possibly my antenna not being screwed in good / possibly cross threaded and that I was getting road noise through the radio. I checked that out and ruled it out as the issue. Upon doing another test run just down the road from the house I could not get the car to replicate the issue. So I turned around thinking maybe it was just me. Then it started again on the way home. So, I called some services places figured out it was likely in the Trans.(REMINDER NO CHECK ENGINE OR ANY OTHER LIGHTS WERE ON AT THIS POINT). I lined up a trans shop to look at it and in the long run was told I needed a new trans. (all bearings inside, input and output shafts with bearings, synchros, 5th gear all needed to be changed). So I sourced out a trans with 17K miles on it, ordered a new clutch kit etc. After the Trans was delivered, the clutch kit shows up (one of the employees took my newly purchased clutch kit, loaded it onto a truck with cores and shipped it off. It was sent back after the weekend, and installed). After the clutch and trans were finally installed we thought there was a problem with the trans not being bled fully as the clutch would not fully disengage, the car sat for 3 weeks at the shop with this same issue. It would have continued to sit there until I was called to get the car or to have it put back on the lift and checked to which they would have to charge me labor fees again. I wasn't having any part of that but wanted my car fixed. So I finally was able to get a hold of the owner of the shop voiced my concerned about them wanting to recharge me labor to check and fix any issues after all of the issues with clutch kits being shipped out, not knowing if it was the same clutch I ordered, no way to prove it was factory defective now, and warranty being voided on those parts etc. I was able to get them to take the trans back out and it was found that I had a defective pressure plate, a new clutch kit was ordered and installed (new parts and labor of no cost to me).
This is where things get to the point I am at now. When I picked up the car I had a Check Engine light on. We all assumed that it was possibly a cause of them working on the car and unplugging things and it would likely reset it self (at first the car ran fine just had the check engine light on). So after about 2 more weeks the light has not gone off. Occassionally, the car will want to stall out and die, during this time it idles rough and after a few moments the car runs fine again. Though I do seem to be burning a lot more gas than I should, and I can smell it being a bit on the rich side. So I pull into my local O'Reiley's and have them check the codes for me. The list below is the codes they were able to pull:
p0135 - O2 Heater Circuit Bank 1, Sensor 1
p0155 - O2 Heater Circuit Bank 2, Sensor 2
p1000 - on-Board Diagnostic OBD System Rediness Test Not Complete
The First 2 Codes deal with O2 sensors one possible fix was to replace Fuse #47 (I checked the current fuse it looked okay but replaced anyway)
The Last lists 4 different reported fixes everything from: Clean Throttle Body (which I did do), performed emission monitor drive cycles, performed powertrain control module (PCM) Programming, and Replaced Fuel Pump w/P2106,P2135.
Again I changed the fuse, and cleaned the throttle body this made no difference.
All that leads me to TODAY 8/7/15! I again went to take off for work and same as usual here over the last couple of weeks, however, I went to pull onto the highway and the car fell on its face. It would barely accellerate, when I finally did get going it had no power, it simply felt like someone cut off the power to the car. I was ale to get going and got up to highway speeds though it was sluggish. I never noticed it on my way into the office however, I eventually noticed the Wrench Light came on while on my way home. Upon some research I found that this is a Limp Mode. To which my car has all the symptoms of. I noticed you can't use cruise control, and for whatever reason (this does not seem like it should be related to limp mode but possibly so) the A/C stopped blowing cold all of a sudden (I live in south Louisiana the temps are pushing 100 daily right now the A/C is needed!!! LOL!). The fan speeds work fine and warm air will blow out but no cold air. The A/C light is on, I have not checked the fuse for it nor do I know which one to look for but that wouldn't be too difficult to find out. So I again went by my local O'Reiley's and had them pull the codes again since the Limp Mode light came on. The following is the list of codes that were pulled from this instance: *PLEASE NOTE* THE PREVIOUS CODES WERE NOT CLEARED AS THEY WOULD NOT CLEAR THEM FOR ME! ALSO, THESE ARE THE CODES THAT PULLED UP AND I AM ONLY LISTING THEM ONCE THOUGH MANY OF THESE APPEARED MULTIPLE TIMES!!
p0155 - O2 Heater Circuit Bank 2, Sensor 1
p0446 - Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit
p2008 - Intake Manifold Runner Control IMRC Circuit Open Bank 1
p2196 - O2 Sensor Signal Biased Stuck Rich - Bank 1, Sensor 1
p0135 - O2 Heater Circuit Bank 1, Sensor 1
p0010 - Intake Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit Open Bank 1
p0020 - Intake Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit Open Bank 2
p0102 - Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Low
p0132 - O2 Circuit High Voltage Bank 1, Sensor 1
In doing my research (The Little I was able to do today before posting this) it's stated that the Wrench Light (Limp Mode) typically is caused by a bad or going bad Throttle Body, However, if you look at the codes there are quite a few that point to O2 Sensor problems, I also know that one issue may cause other unrelated codes to populate so it could be any of a number of issues causing the codes which is why I need you guys help.
Though the above may be the case for the codes I will not rule out the fact that I may have a loose plug / bad connection on an O2 sensor that was the fault of the Trans shop. To be perfectly honest, I really don't know where to begin my search to getting the issue resolved. I am hoping that you all can help me get to the bottom of this. I really can't afford nor do I want to start changing O2 sensors and replacing a Throttle Body or vice versa if I do not have to (while the new throttle body would be nice to upgrade it is not in the budget at the moment, especically when most require a tune afterwards).
Again any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Justin
