Help with diagnosing noisy shifting issues.

Miker

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Hopefully this is where I should post this.
I am kind of at my witts end.
My 2005 4.6 manual makes a loud metallic clank when shifting especially at low rpm shifts. Clutch works perfect, transmission upshifts and downshifts perfect. Clutch has been replaced with stock components and has about 30K on it. The car has 155K on it and I don't know all the history so I can assume the rear end and 3650 have the 155K on them. I have replaced the 2 piece driveline with a FRPP 1 piece. I have also changed the rear LCAs with GT 500 pieces. I switched out the diff fluid and went with Lucas dino.
The noise seems to be coming from the bell housing area and can be avoided with a high rpm shift or a perfect low rpm shift. The rear end does not howl or do anything weird when cornering. The transmission does make a growl at extremely low rpm when accelerating but goes away immediately.
The noise is not repeatable by getting on and off the gas abruptly as if there was too much play in the system somewhere.
Here is the weird part. Sometimes the car shifts perfect with zero noise or clanking and it is not because I am shifting it better. The shifter even feels different when it does this.
What could change to make that happen?
My thought is it is the transmission input shaft components are worn which is causing the low growl at lower rpms. I only think this because the clank sounds like it is coming from the bell housing area. But if that is it why would that change at times? Could it be some part of the clutch system even though it works perfect? Broken clutch disc spring?

Please Help!
 
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StockishS197

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I have the same clunk. I think the T3650 is just a bit noisy…the thing rattles like crazy even at idle with cams.

Given the age, your motor mounts + trans mounts could be exacerbating the issue if there excessive driveline slop.
 

Miker

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Thank you for the reply. I never considered the transmission mount. I hope it is something that simple. Might explain why when it doesn't clank the shifter itself feels different. Time to jack up the car.
 

Miker

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I just watched some videos on the transmission mount. My car has the pipe hangers still that the later cars did not. Apparently they are not needed but I would like to keep them. It looks like that makes removing the crossmember a bit difficult. Could I simply leave everything bolted down and lift the transmission with a jack to see if the mount is bad? Seems like if it is torn I would be able to tell if I do that.
I went out to jack up the car and of course it started raining. It hasn't rained in months!
 

Midlife Crises

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Can’t help you with the exhaust hangers, my car doesn’t havre them. The upper control arm bushings are famous for making a clunk when they go bad. Especially the one attached to the chassis above the fuel tank. Clunk when you stop or go, step on the gas or let off. Just another place to look.
 

Miker

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Can’t help you with the exhaust hangers, my car doesn’t havre them. The upper control arm bushings are famous for making a clunk when they go bad. Especially the one attached to the chassis above the fuel tank. Clunk when you stop or go, step on the gas or let off. Just another place to look.

Thank you. That is the one part that I have not addressed but it appears to be ok by looking at it.
I got under the car and took a bunch of pics of the transmission mount. It looked good, not torn that I could see. I put a wrench on the 4 bolts that hold on the crossmember and they didn't budge. Then the 2 that mount the rubber mount to the crossmember. They didn't budge. Then the center bolt that connects the mount to the transmission. I was surprised to find it easy to tighten! I was able to tighten it about 1/2 of a turn easily. Seems to have been the issue. The shifter seems better and the clank is gone. I'm not really sure why as it wasn't really that loose. I would say it was at 20 ft lbs and I tightened it to 52 ft lbs.
 

brasil

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...the bolt that goes into the tranny... the tranny is made of aluminium... so 52 ft.lbs looks like a bunch of torque for me. Did you confirm the 52 ft.lbs ?
I am asking, because the aluminium housings can crack very fast.....
 

Miker

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...the bolt that goes into the tranny... the tranny is made of aluminium... so 52 ft.lbs looks like a bunch of torque for me. Did you confirm the 52 ft.lbs ?
I am asking, because the aluminium housings can crack very fast.....
Yes verified. 52 ft lbs for that center bolt from the isolator to the transmission.

 
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Miker

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52ft lbs... ok. Sothe 20 something...were way too loose
I really don't know what my ending torque on that bolt was. When I found the center bolt loose I just tightened it with the 3/8ths ratchet I had in hand. After I found the torque spec I simply reached under the car with my Digital set to 52 and it went off before any movement. So it very well might be more than the 52. Probably close enough for government work. I should probably loosen it and then retighten it with the torque wrench I suppose.
I will say this. I was really hoping that this wasn't just a placebo. It wasn't. After driving the car for a few days the noise has not returned.
Also it used to be hard to shift the car fast. Now it is a breeze. Shifter feels much more precise. I couldn't be happier!
Many thanks to @StockishS197 for suggesting the mounts in the first place.
 

brasil

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thank you Miker for your update..
I think I will put my Mustang on a lift next week... just to verify that bolt.
 

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