Lowering my '14 questions

[Mach3011]

Everyone I talk to has a different opinion about what all is needed when lowering the car..Basically it's for looks, I don't commute much and just romp around. Purely aesthetic.

What I have come down to is needed the springs and adjustable panhard.
1. http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach-pro-springs-2011gtv6.html
2. http://www.americanmuscle.com/sr-adj-panhard-0514.html

So my questions would be...
1. Is this right and complete and fit?
2. This isn't going to give the bagged looked is it? Not my type. Just looking to get rid of the 4x4.


I have a '14 GT with AMR 20x8.5 255/35-20 (front) and 20x10 305/35-20 (back).

 

[MechE]

If it's just for looks why not go with a poly/poly PHB?

 

[Mach3011]

If it's just for looks why not go with a poly/poly PHB?

I don't know what that is?

 

[MechE]

I don't know what that is?

The ends that mount to the body and the rear end have bushings made of rubber from ford. It is compliant and keeps the noise down. Polyurethane bushings are stiffer and are a pretty good compromise. The bar you picked out has rod ends/ heim joints. They typically transmit more noise than either of the other two but are more "racecar". Also, I have 0 experience with SR products but some on here will tell you there are better components for your money. The springs are fine. Other popular ones are FRPP, steeda, and BMR

 

[bujeezus]

http://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-adj-panhard-0512.html

Notice where the adjuster is on this one. Much easier to get to than the one you picked. You can adjust it without having to remove it.

 

[Mach3011]

http://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-adj-panhard-0512.html

Notice where the adjuster is on this one. Much easier to get to than the one you picked. You can adjust it without having to remove it.

Ahh makes sense, noted! I think this looks like a better option.

 

[obsrt86]

BMR Drag lowering springs, BMR Adj. Poly end panhard bar. DONE.

 

[TGR96]

Like others have said, for your intended purpose, please go with poly bushings on your panhard bar. Rod ends will cause a big increase in NVH, probably too much for a street only car.

The Eibach Pros are good springs. I had a set on my 07, and I thought it gave the car a great stance, IMHO. Just the right amount of drop for a DD.

I would also add in a set of rear LCA relocation brackets. They are cheap, easy to install, and will keep your LCAs at the correct angle. You may also consider Eibach cam bolts to help keep your front wheel camber in check. They are also easy to install, and are a lot cheaper than full on caster/camber plates, which might be a little bit of overkill for your intended purpose.

Cam bolts:

http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach-proalign-bolts-0512.html

Relocation brackets:

http://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-lca-relocationbracket-0512.html

 

[spectreman]

Beware about asking this type question. Everyone is an expert and will try to tell you the base suspension is crap and lowering it will only further crappen it. Some of the aftermarket suspension shops are the worst @ overselling what you need. I heard it all when I asked about my track pack suspension and lowering it. I was told the TP set up was crap and should throw away the shocks/struts. Just ridiculousness- throwing away brand new stuff. Yeah, like the Stang site 'experts' know better than Ford, right?

If you're not going to track/race the car and are only looking to lower the car for visual effects, perhaps better cornering, you need only the springs, maybe the caster bolts or plates to keep the alignment straight.

I wanted my '14 GT track pack equipped lower, primarily for appearance, secondarily for handling. A local shop who specializes in suspension packages told me that, because of my driving desires, I only needed the springs- no panhard bar, no upper/lower control arms, shocks/struts- nothing else, except maybe caster bolts & that was AFTER they installed the springs. The alignment was off by less than 1mm but they wanted it perfect so on the bolts went.

My car's axle stayed centered too- no issues there, no adjustable panhard bar needed. If it had needed it, adjustable panhard bars are relatively cheap & I would've done it afterwards. If you ask most of these guys, they'll tell you that their car's rearend was off by 1/4"- really, a whole 1/4"? Mercy, how could you be seen in that.

And my car road great & handled better- flatter cornering- than it did w/the track pack springs. I used Steeda sport springs- dropped the car about an inch w/minimal damage to ride comfort. Well worth it to me & I'm glad I didn't drop any more $$ on unnecessary stuff.

Bottom line- it's your $$. If you want to put that kind of $$ into it, God bless and good luck. But if you're just looking to lower it, find an honest local suspension shop & get their opinion.
Lee

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

I'll just add to your post by stating that first of all, I'm far from being considered as one those Stang site experts in which you refer to who claim the stock suspension is nothing but junk..

As a matter of fact, I don't ever recall anybody on this site who ever made such ridiculous claims about the stock suspension to begin with..

I know from my own personal experience that everyone I've asked for advice regarding what suspension components they recommend upgrading have been nothing but positive and very helpful to say the very least and never had anything negative to say about the stock suspension..

As for your particular application is concerned, you have the track/handling pack which already includes upgraded front/rear sway bars, lca's, panhard bar, strut mounts and FRPP lowering springs along with FRPP shocks/struts if I'm not mistaken ?

Therefore it really isn't necessary for you to upgrade your springs nor do you need to upgrade to any of the suspension components I've already mentioned..

However for the rest of us that don't have the track/handling pack, it is indeed recommended to upgrade towards the suspension components that I've mentioned, as the stock dampers will wear quicker thanks to not being designed to handle the stress from shorter travel distance/valving due to changing the height and geometry of your stock springs to aftermarket lowering springs, in addition to changing your pinion angle, steering and toe..

At any rate, once again.. I am no expert nor do I claim to be, however it doesn't really take a rocket scientist to comprehend common sense when it concerns understanding the principles of geometry..

With that being said.. If Ford didn't think it's track/handling packs were necessary, they wouldn't bother offering the suspension components for purchase, let alone include them as factory optional equipment on Mustangs such as yours in the first place !

 

[spectreman]

How in the world did you assume this was a personal attack on your own knowledge/experiences? I was simply generalizing from MY experiences in asking others from various sites & suppliers as to what was required.

I did what worked for me. Your mileage may vary.

 

[AbdullaGT500]

In my experience, I've needed a panhard bar on some cars and no on others. When you have beefy tires, guess what? It is pretty damn noticeable and will even rub on one side and not the other. I'd say that is a reason to install an adjustable panhard bar.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

How in the world did you assume this was a personal attack on your own knowledge/experiences? I was simply generalizing from MY experiences in asking others from various sites & suppliers as to what was required.

I did what worked for me. Your mileage may vary.

I didn't take your post as a personal attack.. My response to your post was nothing more than relating my own personal experiences in a generalized manner and by setting the record straight that not everyone on these Mustang sites are like those whom you were referring to..

That's all I wanted to point out..

Now getting back to your Mustang.. Being as you have the track/handling pack, there is no reason why your rear axle would be off center and require an adjustable panhard bar to begin with, as your track pack has already addressed this.. Therefore your suspension shouldn't require any further upgrades anyhow, however once again for those of us who don't have the handling/track packs, it's recommended to upgrade towards an adjustable panhard bar in order to re-center the rear axle back to within Ford OEM specs, depending of course on how much the car has been lowered..

For my particular application, my dealership's tech does recommend doing the adjustable panhard bar, as my car's rear axle is off center and not within OEM specs due from the Eibach pro springs which lowered my rear suspension approx 1.5 inches.. I may also have to look into a bumpsteer kit, as my pinion angle and toe may also be off as well..

 

[BMR Tech 2]

If you're just looking to lower the car, then an adjustable panhard bar, a set of lowering springs, and maybe a set of camber bolts should be all thats required. The axle will shift over to the drivers side once the car has been lowered, and it becomes more apparent with wider wheels and tires. Some people choose to forgo the adjustable panhard bar, and thats fine. Nothing bad will happen to your car, but you may rub with wider wheels and tires. You may not need the camber bolts depending on which spring you ultimately end up going with. Most of the ~1.5" springs will still leave you within OEM specs.

It's also a good idea to pick up a set of LCA relocation brackets, but they aren't required. Just bear in mind that your axle will tend to lift instead of being forced to the pavement, decreasing your ability to get traction.

 

[808muscle]

305 tires and you will notice how much you do need that adj panhard bar! Lol

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

If you're just looking to lower the car, then an adjustable panhard bar, a set of lowering springs, and maybe a set of camber bolts should be all thats required. The axle will shift over to the drivers side once the car has been lowered, and it becomes more apparent with wider wheels and tires. Some people choose to forgo the adjustable panhard bar, and thats fine. Nothing bad will happen to your car, but you may rub with wider wheels and tires. You may not need the camber bolts depending on which spring you ultimately end up going with. Most of the ~1.5" springs will still leave you within OEM specs.

It's also a good idea to pick up a set of LCA relocation brackets, but they aren't required. Just bear in mind that your axle will tend to lift instead of being forced to the pavement, decreasing your ability to get traction.

I have 255-35-20's on 20x8.5 wheels in the front with Eibach pro springs with approx 1.3 - 1.4 inch drop that still required camber bolts just in order to get back within OEM specs..

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

305 tires and you will notice how much you do need that adj panhard bar! Lol

With just 285-30-20's.. I need an adj panhard bar lol.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

If you're just looking to lower the car, then an adjustable panhard bar, a set of lowering springs, and maybe a set of camber bolts should be all thats required. The axle will shift over to the drivers side once the car has been lowered, and it becomes more apparent with wider wheels and tires. Some people choose to forgo the adjustable panhard bar, and thats fine. Nothing bad will happen to your car, but you may rub with wider wheels and tires. You may not need the camber bolts depending on which spring you ultimately end up going with. Most of the ~1.5" springs will still leave you within OEM specs.

It's also a good idea to pick up a set of LCA relocation brackets, but they aren't required. Just bear in mind that your axle will tend to lift instead of being forced to the pavement, decreasing your ability to get traction.

Dylan ! I have a question for you.. In your opinion would it be recommended to have a bumpsteer kit installed for my particular application ? As I've had certain shops claim that even with just a 1.3 -1.4 inch drop, will still be enough to change the toe and pinion angle to cause steering/tracking issues, such as the suspension controlling the tracking instead of the driver..

Anyway I'd like to get your thoughts/opinions and if you recommend looking into a bumpsteer kit ? Then I'll go ahead and purchase one if necessary..


Thanks, Rocky

 

[BMR Tech 2]

Dylan ! I have a question for you.. In your opinion would it be recommended to have a bumpsteer kit installed for my particular application ? As I've had certain shops claim that even with just a 1.3 -1.4 inch drop, will still be enough to change the toe and pinion angle to cause steering/tracking issues, such as the suspension controlling the tracking instead of the driver..

Anyway I'd like to get your thoughts/opinions and if you recommend looking into a bumpsteer kit ? Then I'll go ahead and purchase one if necessary..


Thanks, Rocky

Getting your alignment corrected after lowering your car is definitely something that needs to be done. The toe can change from lowering, but a bump steer kit isn't necessary to correct that. The bump steer kit will change your tie rod angles relative to your a-arms, preventing bumps from steering the car for you. In my experience, it's not really a huge deal on the S197 and you probably wouldn't notice a huge difference by installing a BS kit. Between the cost of the alignment and the cost of the BS kit, it's probably not worth it for a street car lowered ~1.5" or less. Once you start getting lower than 1.5", then it becomes more prudent on track cars, but not really on street cars.

 

[Sky Render]

If you're just looking to lower the car, then an adjustable panhard bar, a set of lowering springs, and maybe a set of camber bolts should be all thats required. The axle will shift over to the drivers side once the car has been lowered, and it becomes more apparent with wider wheels and tires. Some people choose to forgo the adjustable panhard bar, and thats fine. Nothing bad will happen to your car, but you may rub with wider wheels and tires. You may not need the camber bolts depending on which spring you ultimately end up going with. Most of the ~1.5" springs will still leave you within OEM specs.

It's also a good idea to pick up a set of LCA relocation brackets, but they aren't required. Just bear in mind that your axle will tend to lift instead of being forced to the pavement, decreasing your ability to get traction.

People using my diagrams makes me happy.

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