Lund TT kit Alpha X build (Goin heads up racing)

[Bud]

good to get that license

Yup, shedding that newbie status one step at a time.

You going to be getting the car out this winter at all with the glide or waiting till spring?

 

[Bud]

thats pretty legit!

who did your converter? how sloppy is it? Turbo = Tight converter

I don't have a speedo or DS sensor so don't have it on my logs but getting as close as I can on rpm on the logs vs trap speed it looks like I had 13.75% converter slip in BG on the 8.84 run.

I definitely have to get a DS sensor going so I can get a better idea of slip next year. The Racepak obdii setup looks awesome if it'll pull what I need from the stock computer and allow me to add in a driveshaft and boost sensor. Would be nice to not have to try and hit a laptop button in gloves while strapped in to start logging.

 

[Wicked97]

I don't have a speedo or DS sensor so don't have it on my logs but getting as close as I can on rpm on the logs vs trap speed it looks like I had 13.75% converter slip in BG on the 8.84 run.

I definitely have to get a DS sensor going so I can get a better idea of slip next year. The Racepak obdii setup looks awesome if it'll pull what I need from the stock computer and allow me to add in a driveshaft and boost sensor. Would be nice to not have to try and hit a laptop button in gloves while strapped in to start logging.

you should look in to the AEM AQ1

It has 8 channels and a built in G meter

so you could do
wide band
boost
Driveshaft
RPM
Air intake
G meter
coolent temp
Fuel PSI
Oil PSI



it will also interface with AEM gauges so if you have an AEM wideband you just hook the white wire to the logger and you have a gauge and it records

its a very affordable setup

 

[CPRsm]

SNAP! That's awesome. For use w older models too yes?

 

[Wicked97]

SNAP! That's awesome. For use w older models too yes?

yup its a stand alone logger.

you can do either

8 analog sensors
or
4 analogs and 4 frequency

so you can log anything really

 

[Bud]

Would still be nice to have the obdii sensor info from the PCM (maf, IAT, load, rpm, timing, etc) laid out on the same graph as boost, driveshaft speed, g meter without having to add redundant sensors/wiring.

That said the AEM AQ1 is less than 50% of the cost of a racepak sportsman setup with the obdii interface. The fancy racepak dash would be cool though. Good thing I have some time to think about it. Still going to need to do a block support, front struts, and maybe a proper boost controller this winter too. Time to go hunting for a pile of money

 

[CPRsm]

Change your name to Duece Bigalow, manwhore. Problem solved lol

 

[Bud]

Change your name to Duece Bigalow, manwhore. Problem solved lol

hrmmm....

 

[kdanner]

Would still be nice to have the obdii sensor info from the PCM (maf, IAT, load, rpm, timing, etc) laid out on the same graph as boost, driveshaft speed, g meter without having to add redundant sensors/wiring.

It looks like some of the Racelogic stuff will do all that AND cameras.

 

[Bud]

It looks like some of the Racelogic stuff will do all that AND cameras.

I will have to check them out too. I find myself not logging runs when I should because I get in a hurry, forget, etc. Logging that gets started off the transbrake button so it is there everytime without fail would be very nice.

 

[Bud]

Scaled the car again at it's full race weight. 3183lbs

With the ARB disconnected the corner weights were:

855 - 823
782 - 721

Put the ARB links back in and adjusted them while on the scales to get the weight showing on the rear the same for both sides and ended up with 762lbs on each rear tire. Problem is with the ARB adjusted to get the weight even in the rear the passenger side sits almost 1" higher than the driver's side.

When adjusting an ARB do you go for no preload and adjust from there or do you want to use it to even the weight out in the rear so each tire see's the same load?

Also I have to add 120lbs next year to be legal weight, thinking about putting some weight just behind the passenger seat until the car is the same side to side, then maybe the rest over the diff. Any suggestions on that?

 

[Bud]

I must have had similar preload on the ARB on my runs this season as the passenger side sat up a similar amount (3/4") and the car would launch straight as long as it had traction. When it would go wheels and unload and spin the car would go left. The same thing would happen in the burnout box. Seems anytime the car spins it would go left.

 

[Wicked97]

Scaled the car again at it's full race weight. 3183lbs

With the ARB disconnected the corner weights were:

855 - 823
782 - 721

Put the ARB links back in and adjusted them while on the scales to get the weight showing on the rear the same for both sides and ended up with 762lbs on each rear tire. Problem is with the ARB adjusted to get the weight even in the rear the passenger side sits almost 1" higher than the driver's side.

When adjusting an ARB do you go for no preload and adjust from there or do you want to use it to even the weight out in the rear so each tire see's the same load?

Also I have to add 120lbs next year to be legal weight, thinking about putting some weight just behind the passenger seat until the car is the same side to side, then maybe the rest over the diff. Any suggestions on that?

I would not recommend preloading the sway bar like that. We always run ours neutral if you start preloading the car will always be cocked over one way and the suspension will not beable to move freely. with it cranked up like that you are putting way too much load on that little 5/16s heim joint. Think about that you have that little sucker trying to move 60 LBS in your case.

If you set in neutral with the car at race weight with driver you should beable to hop under the car and easily move either link. (they should wiggle back and forth and hit the mount.)

If you want to even out the weight in the rear you have to move weight. its that simple

 

[psfracer]

I would not recommend preloading the sway bar like that. We always run ours neutral if you start preloading the car will always be cocked over one way and the suspension will not beable to move freely. with it cranked up like that you are putting way too much load on that little 5/16s heim joint. Think about that you have that little sucker trying to move 60 LBS in your case.

If you set in neutral with the car at race weight with driver you should beable to hop under the car and easily move either link. (they should wiggle back and forth and hit the mount.)

If you want to even out the weight in the rear you have to move weight. its that simple

When I tried to preload the anti-roll bar, my car would always want to go slightly to the right in the first 60', and I would have to fight the car to get it back into the grove as I headed down the track.

With my new setup I set everything like Eric mentions above, after I set the pinon angle I made sure everything was square, and the links for the roll bar were completely neutral so there would be no binding at all. Car leaves completely straight now.

 

[Bud]

Thanks for the response guys. That is what I was thinking, didn't seem right to preload it that hard, especially to the point it was lifting the body 3/4" on the passenger side. That is about how I had it for the last few runs and it would go straight until it spun and then hook left.

Bummer that I have to add 120lbs to be legal weight but I'm going to try and use it to get the car equal side to side. Going to get the car sitting how I want with some proper struts/shocks then once it scales even side to side with the extra weight, put the ARB links in nuetral and see what it does at the track...in 5 months when it opens again.

 

[psfracer]

Or head to Vegas in 3 weeks.

 

[Bud]

I can't even afford to get there as a spectator. Hope you have some fun out there, what class are you running again?

 

[psfracer]

I don't know yet. I am going to Famoso on 11/2-11/3 for the whole weekend TNT to see what the car will run in the 1/4. If it can run an 8.60 I will be in Super Index (7.60/8.60). If not then I will be in Mustang Madness.

The runs at Sacramento I did a couple weeks ago were 5.57 / 5.58, but I need to be at 5.50 in the 1/8th for super index 8.60. At Sacramento that was the first time out with the car since the new set up, I have a few things to try before stepping up to a 250 shot (from a 200) if that stuff doesn't work. I will have two days to sort it out then decide.

At the NMCA race at Famoso this weekend, the turnout for Mustang Madness was pretty good at 21 cars for that class.

 

[Bud]

Well, ended the year with the best run being the 8.84 in bowling green. Had more power than the car/setup could handle this year. Goal for next year is to run much quicker and do it on a radial.

Big thanks to Kelly from BMR for the chat today. When money allows I will be swapping over to their springs, Viking DA rears and Strange SA fronts. Then hopefully I can start dialing in the suspension to consistently hook and get it done on the new MT 275. I think I probably have some backhalf to gain with some review/tweaking of my current converter as well.

Even though I built to the rules of the entry level class in my local heads up org the writing is on the wall and I'll probably be bumped to the next higher class due to the car being so quick. Kind of a bummer but the next higher up class allows progressive/ramp boost controllers so that will help me get the car quicker. Running against 5.2x 1/8th mile cars will suck, but such is life. So plans over the winter when funds allow:

• BMR springs
• Viking DA rear shocks
• Strange SA front struts
• AMS1000 boost controller
• Add weight to get to legal class weight of 3300lbs

 

[SonicGT]

I thought BMR just had lowering springs?