Need an opinion on couple mods

Cmarris

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I recently came into possession of a 05 gt manual. It has an airaid intake (I think, haven't looked in a while) and flow master cat back, nothing special. I know it has the smaller intake that doesn't require tuning and its still on 87 octane. I am purchasing 4.10 gears and a clutch pack rebuild and am debating on getting the Jlt series 3 and bama tune with 93. Is it worth getting a new intake with the bigger maf housing, or should I just get the tuner and 93 tune and tune on this intake. Thanks for the input
 

stkjock

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Wes06

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TEKKK

asking what mods to get isnt Tech in this forum, will be moved to chit chat.

As for if the jlt 3 is better or not, iunno myself

Tree'd by the man himself
 

07gts197

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If its a no tune required airaid then it has an insert where the maf goes through. It can be removed and will essentially become a bigger intake for the lack of a better explanation. So, you wont have to get a new intake but you will have to get a tune.
 

Cmarris

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Sorry about posting in the wrong thread, read the rules. My car does have the airaid intake, I'm guessing it's the same intake as the airaid that requires the tune just with the modular vent tube insert? So getting another intake would just be redundant. So I should see the same gains people are getting with 93 and the insert removed? I'd be happy with around 300hp and 320~ftlbs on 4.10s

Just saw what 07gts said. Guess I get to save some money unless there's any kther bolt ons you guys would recommend right now
 
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Cmarris

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What makes you say to go with a Lund tune over bama? I thought alot of people were happy with bama tunes
 

stkjock

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if you do some reading/research..... you'll see why
 

ponys197

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Alot depends on what your goals are for the car as to what mods you make. Decide that first so you don't go down the path of spending money on the wrong stuff.

Suspension mods like LCA / UCA will help no matter what your goal is for the car and are easy to do and install. Look at like the BMR kit for those.
 

46addict

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You want to use a rubber bushing on the UCA and diff housing for road racing. Poly bushings for drag racing. So like ponys197 said you have to decide what route you want to go. I would avoid JLT and keep the Airraid you have now and remove the insert if you want more power on the 93 tune. People (myself included) have had issues getting the filter to stay on the tube with JLT intakes. My guess is it's an issue of the plastic tube distorting over time. I never looked into it myself.

Anyways, a one piece aluminum driveshaft and underdrive pulleys are good first mods too and they don't require a tune. You will have to go back to stock pulleys if you ever want to run a supercharger.
 
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bujeezus

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Just put a VMP tune on my stock Bullitt and was very pleased. I've also heard great things about Lito's tunes (a member here) but I needed the SCT X4 also which is why I went with the combo deal with VMP. It's a noticeable difference.
 

Cmarris

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My goals right now are just to wake the car up a bit and enjoys it as a daily while I'm finishing up classes. I'm not at the track every weekend and not trying to get into low numbers right now.
 

Cmarris

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Everything I'm reading about the bama tunes is that the v2 tunes have been good with the 3valves but still a little sketchy on he coyotes
 

46addict

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Bama tuning is ok for the intake/gears/off road midpipe car but anything beyond that you would benefit from custom tuning with datalogs.
 

Cmarris

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Awesome, thanks. I'll do that for now. Later down the road I'll do heavier stuff, but for a while this will be it. Thanks for all the help!
 

Sky Render

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You want to use a rubber bushing on the UCA and diff housing for road racing. Poly bushings for drag racing.

What? No. Just. No.

Poly bushings are a great choice for any type of street or drag/road race/autocross use unless you're really chasing those last tenths of seconds. (Then you'll want spherical bearings.)

Rubber bushings on the UCA are HORRIBLE.
 

46addict

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The way I understand UCA bushings is you want rubber for proper axle articulation. Rigid bushings in this area will bind up under hard cornering and that can cause sudden changes in the wheel rate (snap oversteer).
 

tjm73

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The way I understand UCA bushings is you want rubber for proper axle articulation. Rigid bushings in this area will bind up under hard cornering and that can cause sudden changes in the wheel rate (snap oversteer).

I think that is on four link setups, like the Foxbody had for example.
 

Sky Render

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The way I understand UCA bushings is you want rubber for proper axle articulation. Rigid bushings in this area will bind up under hard cornering and that can cause sudden changes in the wheel rate (snap oversteer).

Only if you're talking about the quadra-bind setup on Foxes and SN-95s.

This is completely incorrect for the 3-link setup on the S-197.
 

Sky Render

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Here is some discussion on the UCA articulation. Vorshlag, among other gurus, recommend rubber or spherical, or a combo of both on the upper.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1815344&postcount=53

Vorshlag ran a Whiteline polyurethane bushing on their UCA after that post was written. Not my personal favorite brand, but there you go, although they did say they didn't entirely like the design.

And if you read the rest of that thread, BMR recommended poly on the upper and spherical on the diff.

Your original post said to use only rubber on both the UCA and diff bushing:

You want to use a rubber bushing on the UCA and diff housing for road racing. Poly bushings for drag racing.

That is still incorrect.

Now, are you done arguing?
 
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