Nervous about Nitrous

[G Wrecks]

I want to add some more go-fast parts to my car, but I can't afford a s/c, and I don't want to deal with cams. That pretty much leaves me with nitrous. From what you guys know or have experienced, why does nitrous have such a bad stigma? From what I have researched, it seems like the most logical performance booster out there.

Pros: It is only on when you want it on (unlike a s/c), and it's a great HP to dollar ratio.

Cons: Possible detonation(???)

What are the risks/rewards of nitrous? And why should or shouldn't I get it?

Thanks,
Garrett

 

[1FastS197]

well... this is kinda hard to explain.... but just like any other power adder it has its ups and downs... you will need a window activation switch, it allows the nitrous to spray at certain RPM's... a bottle heater and pressure guage is a must.... most anyone who talks bad about nitrous are the ones who put a kit on a car and didn't tune it properly, right plugs, etc.... and wanted to spray a 200 shot and think it would be fine... if its a stock motor i say 125 shot will be good but i can't stress the importance of getting a dyno tune and changing the plugs and a window switch...

 

[redstangs9308gt]

Well I have had both, FI and n2o. Yes the purchase price of a n2o kit is cheaper and much easier to install but....... You have to always make sure you can find and get refills. Then if you get into it a little deeper, you have to make sure you have proper temp on the bottle so your bottle pressure is more of a constant. like 900psi. Another thing that I didn't like about n2o is the fact that you couldn't engage it on a stock motor any lower than I think 3500rpms.
SO to sum it up
n2o pros; easy to install, cheaper when first buying, and easy to remove.
n2o cons; the power isn't always there, you have to make sure you are filled up, make sure you have proper bottle temp/pressure.
So if money is a issue go with n2o and just use small shots so you won't have to be so nervous and you can enjoy your new found power.
Also use the SEARCH this have been covered time and time again.

 

[white05gt]

If you don't have the money for a supercharger, what will you do if you hurt the engine? Is this a daily driver and will you have the money to fix it?

 

[redstangs9308gt]

I think he will be just fine with a 75 shot. I ran a 75shot/93 octane with factory tune for a very long time.

 

[Towelly]

Redstang, love your "modo" at the end of your sig!

 

[s8v4o]

... why does nitrous have such a bad stigma?

Idiots can fuck up anything and give it a bad rap. Do some research and you'll be ok. It goes without saying, start with a small shot and work your way up. Get a wideband and window switch at minimum.

 

[waldogt07]

You can use nitrous and make some GREAT power with it but making it safe is the key to using it....No power adder is safe you always have your chances of blowing a motor with any of them.....It is all in the tune....Also you need a RPM Switch, Wideband, Fuel Pressure, Bottle Heater, and if you are gonna run higher than a 75 shot you should get some colder plugs.....I also run a 20 AMP BAP to assist the fuel.....so if you get everything you need to run it safely then you will have a bad ass kit.....I love my nitrous kit and will continue to use nitrous.....I have been collecting parts for my nitrous motor build for quite some time and will up the shot to at least a 200 shot if not more...but for right now I make plenty of power to play with and this is where I will stay at on the stock bottom end.....There are plenty of kits on here used that are for sale....Get a good deal on one and then go from there on getting other parts that you need....

 

[KungFuHamster]

dont get it.

 

[G Wrecks]

If I had a 5.0 like u, I wouldn't get it.

 

[3VPOWA]

I've never played with nitrous either. However, I'm almost done piecing my kit together and hope to have everything delivered this week so I can put it in this weekend. I plan to run a 75-shot using a Zex kit for awhile until I can afford a BAP, A/F Ratio gauge, fuel pressure gauge, and a dyno tune.

I say go for it. I'm in for under $1,000 and have everything parts wise to run a decent shot. Thinking probably another $750 for gauges and tune to run a bigger shot.

 

[Full_Tilt]

It has a bad reputation because when it was first introduced in the 70s very little was known about it and a lot of people were blowing engines from pure ignorance. To this day there are still people blowing engines from ignorance and even more issues as the result of poor quality kits/components and the issue of poor tuning...

Brands like NOS that use low pressure solenoid with soft, deformable piston seats which leak and cause lean condition or backfiring through the intake manifold. Or the even bigger problem which is the nozzles and plates, most of which are total garbage. Poor atomization and poor distribution in the intake manifold is a fast track to melted pistons, valves, etc.


If you want to do it "right", nitrous is absolutely phenomenal and just as reliable as boost.
If I were going to spray on my Coyote I would be running direct port with high quality solenoids and nozzles, most likely NX or WON (if I can afford it), a Window switch, a throttle switch, and I would have both a wideband and an EGT gauge.

 

[G Wrecks]

Well after reading ur responses and doing some more research, nitrous is definitely on my must do list.

So for now my list is:
Lowering springs
Adjustable panhard bar
Nitrous
Tokico shocks and struts

 

[Corpo]

What does egt tell you about what the nitrous is doing? I'm intregued.

It has a bad reputation because when it was first introduced in the 70s very little was known about it and a lot of people were blowing engines from pure ignorance. To this day there are still people blowing engines from ignorance and even more issues as the result of poor quality kits/components and the issue of poor tuning...

Brands like NOS that use low pressure solenoid with soft, deformable piston seats which leak and cause lean condition or backfiring through the intake manifold. Or the even bigger problem which is the nozzles and plates, most of which are total garbage. Poor atomization and poor distribution in the intake manifold is a fast track to melted pistons, valves, etc.


If you want to do it "right", nitrous is absolutely phenomenal and just as reliable as boost.
If I were going to spray on my Coyote I would be running direct port with high quality solenoids and nozzles, most likely NX or WON (if I can afford it), a Window switch, a throttle switch, and I would have both a wideband and an EGT gauge.

 

[redstangs9308gt]

We got deisels in our cars now? LMAO.

 

[Full_Tilt]

EGT will show you if youre too lean, regardless of fuel or oxidizer.
For instance when running on straight nitrous and gasoline, I believe you are stoich at ~10:1 AFR, you obviously want to be a bit rich, so your probably looking at the high 8:1 AFR.
So say youre making 400hp NA with a target AFR of 13:1 and running a 100 shot with a target AFR of 8:1, youre going to theoretically want an actual AFR of ~12:1
So basically, the reason I always suggest an EGT is so that youre not relying on some theoretical stoichiometry that may not hold up in real world use.

The other thing is that EGT will start to increase as you retard from MBT. A lot of tuners that are not knowledgeable about nitrous are inclinded to retard timing too much, often because they encounter detonation due to being too lean or the nitrous kit being a pile of shit. As they keep retarding timing the EGTs can skyrocket and caused melted/chipped valves (usually exhaust valves) and melted ringlands, which is usually ignorantly blamed on detonation.

Finally, EGT will usually drop when detonation occurs (sounds strange, but its true). Once youre aware of that you could effectively use EGT to see detonation, although i wouldn't rely on it solely.

 

[Dreadknought]

Subbed for learnings.

 

[Alscobra]

What's the worse that could happen?Long blocks cost less that a blower kit anyways.

 

[Corpo]

MBT? And what exaust temps should be right?

 

[Full_Tilt]

MBT = Minimum Best Timing. In other words the ignition timing in which you make maximum torque at a particular RPM/load, where advancing further results in no increase or a decrease in output. EGTs increase exponentiaally as you retard from MBT, which is why most of us are just fine with "conservative" ignition timing that is retarded from MBT, but as you get more retarded the EGTs will start to increase more and more rapidly.

As for acceptable EGTs, it depends on the build of the engine. 1600 F is kinda widely accepted "high", which Ive always been able to stay under. I personally think you can go a bit higher before things melt, but Ive never tried for obvious reasons.

That reminds me. Do you still have cats?