2007 Ford Mustang GT 4.6 V8 3v running lean

[Juice]

Where is the damage/repair? Not seeing any straightened metal.
The piece of wood is odd, but the impact bar looks fine. Am I missing something?

 

[Beerus]

Yeah, stock '05-'09 GT engines were rated at 300hp & 320lbft at the crank but I reckon the '06+ versions made a little more since the hydrocarbon trap inside the airbox lid was deleted in late '05.
Your torque curve below 3200rpm doesn't look right since it starts higher from 1800rpm when it should be lower. A true torque peak of ~303rwtq at 4500-4600rpm makes a lot more sense and since the HP number is higher, this makes me wonder if the engine has aftermarket camshafts (the popular Hot Rod cams maybe?). Perhaps that's why the ECU was remapped.

The front bumper reinforcement was certainly bodged up but it shouldn't be too difficult to put right. Once you get rid of all that surface rust and repaint everything, it'll look a ton better.

Your coolant expansion reservoir looks a nasty rusty colour. I wonder if a previous owner might have put tap water into the cooling system or used the wrong coolant. Ford recommends Motorcraft Gold concentrate with deionised water. If you can't find it in the UK, any green coolant that's compatible with aluminium engines will do fine. Never use tap water 'cause the limescale will clog up the radiator and the cooling passages inside the heads/block, eventually resulting in a blown head gasket. Remember the Triumph Stag 3.0L V8 engines that were renowned for this?

at the cars low end it flys like a rocket especially at a roll, if you did a roll at 40 it would just fly to 100 no questions asked, slows downs abit at 120 then after 135 it slows right down, top end isn't its strong suite, only had 168mph out of it wouldn't go anymore at the time, but0 no0 idea whats been done to this car,

yeah thats because last owner put red anti freeze in it and it discoloured it, i used ready use green as i was told by some people it was best for my car just after the engine swap

 

[MrBhp]

front end smack with a lorry, but here a kicker for you, the guy who bought it in the UK bought it broken, bodged it to be road legal, only did 2000 miles in 4 years then sold it to me, when we took off the front bumper i was shocked because the front bumper was reinforced with wood.....no joke, even got a picture will leave below, if i ever got into an accident, that engine would be in the cabbin with us....couldn't believe it,

Proof that red-necks exist in every country.

 

[Beerus]

Where is the damage/repair? Not seeing any straightened metal.
The piece of wood is odd, but the impact bar looks fine. Am I missing something?

i have marked where the damage was, all that wasn't very straight and looked like it had hit behind of a lorry and went under it, my hood didn't line up very well with the passenger side wing either because it was bent a little bit where i circled on the picture, the wood was not only on the bumper bar but was also all over the bumper as well i never took photos of the bumper because the guy already prepped and stripped it for painting, but it was all reinforced with wood, all has been corrected now by straighten and welding and reinforced everything and has bumper foam on the bumper bar now.

 

[MrBhp]

Looks like they got after it with a torch and hammer. We normally, or always, replace that part. But living in Europe makes it difficult to get parts, yes? Seems like they could at least get crash parts. Maybe it was one of those late night, backyard, hammer to fit, paint to match, occurrences. The guy probably ran down some cabinet member who was trying to sell state secrets to the Russians. Sounds plausible.

 

[Beerus]

Looks like they got after it with a torch and hammer. We normally, or always, replace that part. But living in Europe makes it difficult to get parts, yes? Seems like they could at least get crash parts. Maybe it was one of those late night, backyard, hammer to fit, paint to match, occurrences. The guy probably ran down some cabinet member who was trying to sell state secrets to the Russians. Sounds plausible.

yeah parts are hard to get for these cars, i only found 1 replacement new which they wanted £2000 for it and i declined that and got this one repaired instead, but it was definitely a bodge job who ever did it the first time.

 

[Beerus]

update on my lean issue,

so new throttle body installed, spacer removed and as well as bought new gaskets for my intake manifold and throttle body, replaced the parts, the car is back on full power, however its still running lean, long fuel trims have improved massively n dropped to 1 to 7% when driving, 25% maxed out when on idle which is strange, short trims have dropped o 1 to 3% on bank 2 but bank 1 is around 6 to 10%, its still a big improvement as my power loss has stopped, but i encountered another issue after driving hard and pulling up on idle or driving super slow it gets a misfire and starts choking up n will cut out, when looking at the fuel it goes into -8% then slowly goes back up to 6% but noticed one of my coils is broken so a new set of coils and maybe spark plugs?? (not looking forward to sparks as i heard they always snap on the 3v engines)

however tho its a big win as my power is restored, just a shame about the lean issue still on going but with some improvements.

 

[Juice]

You should figure out the misfire issue. Misfires look lean to the sensors.

 

[Beerus]

You should figure out the misfire issue. Misfires look lean to the sensors.

i have a feeling its my coil packs, so next month ill be investing in new sparks and coil packs to eliminate this hopefully, my coil packs have seen better days if i'm honest, i'm hoping it might fix everything but that's wishful thinking,

will drop an update when i have the parts n replaced them

 

[Pentalab]

What is your fuel pressure sitting at? On my 2010, it's 40 psi...at idle or wot. You can read all that on the OBD port.
A few years ago, I had an issue where it would gag with my foot into it pretty good.....and fuel pressure would drop. Turns out the 'sock' filter that's on the bottom of the fuel pump was clogged badly. Once the pump was removed, and 'sock' filter cleaned out, it's been running fine after that. You can also see the FPDC (duty cycle) on the obd port....watch out, the indication is exactly 1/2 of what it really is. IE: '40%' is actually 80%, 30% is actually 60% etc.
You can also read individual cat temps. They are normally identical. If one is higher than the other, the higher reading one is starting to clog up.

 

[DieHarder]

I had a similar problem with misfires/loss of power. Turned out to be coils; specifically, if you've ever removed them the ends can get pushed too far into the boot forcing the spark to jump a gap. They can often work fine at low throttle but give it any input and the engine loses power/bucks/bogs down. Can't hurt to change plugs at the same time.

Get a set of OEM units. Feebay has them for a very reasonable cost. Just be sure to get the same color you have now. Black or Brown.

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[Beerus]

update on this, sorry for the slow update,

so i have replaced coil packs and spark plugs with MSD coils and motor craft sparks (old ones was cheap aftermarket when i looked and took them out), but also replaced the fuel pump with a 100 psi from CJ pony, you can use it as a direct replacement no tune required, misfires have gone, the fuel psi was at 22ps under load, now at a steady 40 to 45psi now, i have replaced everything that would cause these lean issues and after everything, it still says its too lean but the O2 sensors, i noticed the voltage on bank 1 (which is where the lean issue is most persistent) is very low and noticing my alternator is low charging the car at 13.2 lowest to 13.6v, it should be 14.5 max, and ofc as mentioned before in my previous posts my battery gauge is been off for a while and its starting to make sense now, since the sparks and coils are in the battery gauge is starting to work more then usual too, i'm wondering if the sensors are giving a false reading now due to the lack of volts, because the car is running perfect, no hold backs no misfires its super responsive now and running as it should but still says running too lean on both banks, it literally can't be after everything has been replaced,

i will be replacing the alternator next month n hopefully will sort it out, if not new o2 sensors, if not its a mystery but its running amazing and the best its ever been and better then the old engine by far,

i thank everyone for helping and suggestions and i hope this thread helps someone who's struggling with the same issues i had, i will post if any improvements but my main issues have been resolved, just this minor lean issue code which again i think is false readings now,

thanks again all

 

[DieHarder]

If running voltage with a good alternator is low it's due to one of two reasons. Old cabling and/or grounding issues. What happens is over time due to oxidation/corrosion resistance builds up in the cables. This can affect the ground side too where resistance builds up in the cables or at the points where the ground cables and even parts bolt together.

To determine if you have grounding issues perform voltage checks (set VOM to VDC) one lead on the body of the alternator; the other back to the main ground on the passenger strut tower. This is known as performing a voltage drop test. If you're reading voltage the grounds/and or battery cables need replacing. To check for battery cabling issues inspect the battery cables - if they're green anywhere it's likely you need new ones. When I replaced mine I saw a +1v jump in the output at the battery terminals.

If you think you may have resistance or grounding problems there's a couple of things you can do about it:

1) Replace the battery cables - This takes care of the oxidation/resistance issue. Most of our cars are going on +15 - 20 yrs old anyway.
2) Clean/Replace grounds; and/or easier simply add a ground (4 gauge) from a mounting bolt on the body of the alternator back to the main ground on the passenger strut tower.

If you can get 14.3 - 14.7 vdc across the battery terminals you're good to go.

For more on the subject see: Grounds - Finally found the cause of my low voltage - Beware the all important grounds.

 

[Beerus]

Last update on this,

alternator replaced and all fault codes have gone and running on full power again, thank you all for helping me out, it's been a long ride but its finally sorted, i honestly appreciate everyone for there help and i hope people find this forum useful for there lean issues!

Thanks Again!