2007 Ford Mustang GT 4.6 V8 3v running lean

[Juice]

Where is the damage/repair? Not seeing any straightened metal.
The piece of wood is odd, but the impact bar looks fine. Am I missing something?

 

[Beerus]

Yeah, stock '05-'09 GT engines were rated at 300hp & 320lbft at the crank but I reckon the '06+ versions made a little more since the hydrocarbon trap inside the airbox lid was deleted in late '05.
Your torque curve below 3200rpm doesn't look right since it starts higher from 1800rpm when it should be lower. A true torque peak of ~303rwtq at 4500-4600rpm makes a lot more sense and since the HP number is higher, this makes me wonder if the engine has aftermarket camshafts (the popular Hot Rod cams maybe?). Perhaps that's why the ECU was remapped.

The front bumper reinforcement was certainly bodged up but it shouldn't be too difficult to put right. Once you get rid of all that surface rust and repaint everything, it'll look a ton better.

Your coolant expansion reservoir looks a nasty rusty colour. I wonder if a previous owner might have put tap water into the cooling system or used the wrong coolant. Ford recommends Motorcraft Gold concentrate with deionised water. If you can't find it in the UK, any green coolant that's compatible with aluminium engines will do fine. Never use tap water 'cause the limescale will clog up the radiator and the cooling passages inside the heads/block, eventually resulting in a blown head gasket. Remember the Triumph Stag 3.0L V8 engines that were renowned for this?

at the cars low end it flys like a rocket especially at a roll, if you did a roll at 40 it would just fly to 100 no questions asked, slows downs abit at 120 then after 135 it slows right down, top end isn't its strong suite, only had 168mph out of it wouldn't go anymore at the time, but0 no0 idea whats been done to this car,

yeah thats because last owner put red anti freeze in it and it discoloured it, i used ready use green as i was told by some people it was best for my car just after the engine swap

 

[MrBhp]

front end smack with a lorry, but here a kicker for you, the guy who bought it in the UK bought it broken, bodged it to be road legal, only did 2000 miles in 4 years then sold it to me, when we took off the front bumper i was shocked because the front bumper was reinforced with wood.....no joke, even got a picture will leave below, if i ever got into an accident, that engine would be in the cabbin with us....couldn't believe it,

Proof that red-necks exist in every country.

 

[Beerus]

Where is the damage/repair? Not seeing any straightened metal.
The piece of wood is odd, but the impact bar looks fine. Am I missing something?

i have marked where the damage was, all that wasn't very straight and looked like it had hit behind of a lorry and went under it, my hood didn't line up very well with the passenger side wing either because it was bent a little bit where i circled on the picture, the wood was not only on the bumper bar but was also all over the bumper as well i never took photos of the bumper because the guy already prepped and stripped it for painting, but it was all reinforced with wood, all has been corrected now by straighten and welding and reinforced everything and has bumper foam on the bumper bar now.

 

[MrBhp]

Looks like they got after it with a torch and hammer. We normally, or always, replace that part. But living in Europe makes it difficult to get parts, yes? Seems like they could at least get crash parts. Maybe it was one of those late night, backyard, hammer to fit, paint to match, occurrences. The guy probably ran down some cabinet member who was trying to sell state secrets to the Russians. Sounds plausible.

 

[Beerus]

Looks like they got after it with a torch and hammer. We normally, or always, replace that part. But living in Europe makes it difficult to get parts, yes? Seems like they could at least get crash parts. Maybe it was one of those late night, backyard, hammer to fit, paint to match, occurrences. The guy probably ran down some cabinet member who was trying to sell state secrets to the Russians. Sounds plausible.

yeah parts are hard to get for these cars, i only found 1 replacement new which they wanted £2000 for it and i declined that and got this one repaired instead, but it was definitely a bodge job who ever did it the first time.

 

[Beerus]

update on my lean issue,

so new throttle body installed, spacer removed and as well as bought new gaskets for my intake manifold and throttle body, replaced the parts, the car is back on full power, however its still running lean, long fuel trims have improved massively n dropped to 1 to 7% when driving, 25% maxed out when on idle which is strange, short trims have dropped o 1 to 3% on bank 2 but bank 1 is around 6 to 10%, its still a big improvement as my power loss has stopped, but i encountered another issue after driving hard and pulling up on idle or driving super slow it gets a misfire and starts choking up n will cut out, when looking at the fuel it goes into -8% then slowly goes back up to 6% but noticed one of my coils is broken so a new set of coils and maybe spark plugs?? (not looking forward to sparks as i heard they always snap on the 3v engines)

however tho its a big win as my power is restored, just a shame about the lean issue still on going but with some improvements.

 

[Juice]

You should figure out the misfire issue. Misfires look lean to the sensors.

 

[Beerus]

You should figure out the misfire issue. Misfires look lean to the sensors.

i have a feeling its my coil packs, so next month ill be investing in new sparks and coil packs to eliminate this hopefully, my coil packs have seen better days if i'm honest, i'm hoping it might fix everything but that's wishful thinking,

will drop an update when i have the parts n replaced them

 

[Pentalab]

What is your fuel pressure sitting at? On my 2010, it's 40 psi...at idle or wot. You can read all that on the OBD port.
A few years ago, I had an issue where it would gag with my foot into it pretty good.....and fuel pressure would drop. Turns out the 'sock' filter that's on the bottom of the fuel pump was clogged badly. Once the pump was removed, and 'sock' filter cleaned out, it's been running fine after that. You can also see the FPDC (duty cycle) on the obd port....watch out, the indication is exactly 1/2 of what it really is. IE: '40%' is actually 80%, 30% is actually 60% etc.
You can also read individual cat temps. They are normally identical. If one is higher than the other, the higher reading one is starting to clog up.

 

[DieHarder]

I had a similar problem with misfires/loss of power. Turned out to be coils; specifically, if you've ever removed them the ends can get pushed too far into the boot forcing the spark to jump a gap. They can often work fine at low throttle but give it any input and the engine loses power/bucks/bogs down. Can't hurt to change plugs at the same time.

Get a set of OEM units. Feebay has them for a very reasonable cost. Just be sure to get the same color you have now. Black or Brown.

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