New clutch= new flywheel?

[yhhui7]

Fried the clutch last Friday and got a quote for a Spec Stage 3+. The guy at the shop said I would have to replace the flywheel and the clutch. Does this sound right?

 

[86GT351]

It does not hurt to replace both while you are in there.

 

[JC SSP]

Don’t forget the throw out bearing, crankshaft pilot bushing and slave cylinder assembly.

 

[1 Alibi 2]

Replace both, & if you haven't done so already, stainless clutch lines..

 

[mustanger]

You could have your flywheel ground/resurfaced. Normally far cheaper than an aftermarket or new flywheel.

 

[GriffX]

You could have your flywheel ground/resurfaced. Normally far cheaper than an aftermarket or new flywheel.

When I see these videos where they look at flywheels and say "uhh a blue layer..." I always think, so what? This is an oxide layer and/or transferred clutch material which will appear after a while anyway, as long it is not warped I don't see any problem to use it, or am I wrong? Pretty sure that this oxide layer will appear on a new flywheel after a couple of thousands miles.
I would resurface it at maximum.

 

[Red-Candy-Metallic]

If I understand correctly, those parts are rated for 875 ft-lbs of Torque (according to American Muscle). I didn't see any mention of an SFI rating, which it may or may not have. The FPP billet steel flywheel is SFI rated and would probably be a good replacement. Resurfacing the existing/stock flywheel would be a minimum requirement, but given your high-capacity clutch selection, it probably isn't the best choice. Also, replacing the clutch master cylinder would be a good idea while you're at it. I know the cost starts to add up, but a clutch job is not something you want to do over.

 

[stkjock]

really depends on the condition of the fly wheel IMHO.

 

[Red-Candy-Metallic]

If you don't mind providing some additional information, it would be easier for people to offer better advice. Basic car information is always helpful, including any modifications that have already been made and any plans for how you intend to use the car. I just did this work on my 2012 GT. I bracket race the car, but I haven't made any major performance modifications, just simple things like an MGW shifter, Steeda CAI and 93 octane tune.

 

[JC SSP]

Don’t forget about the proper thickness TB shim/spacer.

 

[86GT351]

Suggestion is to replace. Depending on the condition of what is removed it can possibly be resurfaced. If it has Hot Spots don't bother. I beleive the Stage 3 Plus is SFI approved. Message me if I can help you out. I have a connection with SPEC

 

[Midlife Crises]

Not knowing anything about your car, my first question would be. Do you really need a 875 Lb rated clutch? That’s a lot of clutch and will likely have a stiff pedal feel. Next, if you choose a performance clutch then yes you should bolt it to a new, steel flywheel. Your original iron flywheel will have a spiderweb cracked, blue and yellow heat colored surface with hard spots. If you reuse it with the new clutch you will feel “clutch chatter” as you operate the clutch. You could have the flywheel resurfaced if you plan to use a stock level replacement clutch kit. Also, if you have the flywheel resurfaced it is imperative the preload on the throwout bearing be checked before bolting everything back together. Really should be checked even with all new parts to avoid doing the job twice.
New pilot bearing. New throwout bearing/slave cylinder assembly. Absolutely.
I have found the dual disc clutch offerings from McLoed provide outstanding pedal feel without being too stiff and have all the grip I could ever need.