New engine build

[one eyed willy]

You put the cam in a better work range position.

Then would you suggest changing from regular lock outs to the -10* in my situation?

 

[eighty6gt]

An advanced/straight up cam should get better fuel mileage at cruise RPM's/highway speeds, and make more power down low, especially when not under boost. Lito may have empirical evidence to the contrary. It's well worthy of discussion! Lots of us should be locking out our phasers, apparently. Livernois said that with boost you can run a limiter, with springs you can run a limiter, (or with cams, I suppose,) but with both you run lockouts. They would have been burned a few times given the volume of cars they build and tune.

I wish I could try them both, -10 and straight up. Need that engine simulation software.

 

[BruceH]

An advanced/straight up cam should get better fuel mileage at cruise RPM's/highway speeds, and make more power down low, especially when not under boost. Lito may have empirical evidence to the contrary. It's well worthy of discussion! Lots of us should be locking out our phasers, apparently. Livernois said that with boost you can run a limiter, with springs you can run a limiter, (or with cams, I suppose,) but with both you run lockouts. They would have been burned a few times given the volume of cars they build and tune.

I wish I could try them both, -10 and straight up. Need that engine simulation software.

It depends on the cam profile. In general terms retarding to a certain point will increase airflow up top. A boosted car isn't going to suffer in the lower rpms by retarding the cams because of the boost, it's a non issue. The best solution is to have the cams ground with the icl you are trying to achieve by retarding them. That way they can be locked out straight up with the exact icl you want.

You can try them both with vct. It just so happens that the cams lito is using were found to have the best upper rpm airflow with 10 degrees of retard. This was tested against 0, 5, 10, 15, and 20 degrees of retard with a na 3v motor.

 

[lito]

I'll come back and write about the cams later next week. On the mean time, hope it will go in this weekend, got some more done today and pre charged it with some old Joe Gibbs BR oil I had.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Cams aren't locked out? Or are they and you still run the sensors/solenoids for tuning or something?

 

[lito]

Cams aren't locked out? Or are they and you still run the sensors/solenoids for tuning or something?

No, VCT will work.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

Dumb question here, but the reluctor wheel is just to see where the cam is at, right?

So not having it means you wouldn't know where the cam is at? But if the cam is locked to the crank, all that really does is let you know if something got messed up, right?

 

[Department Of Boost]

No, VCT will work.

Jim had mentioned that you liked them to still be there even if the cams were locked. I'm intrigued.

And I had plans on eliminating mine and plugging the valve covers. But if you want them there for tuning I'll leave them.

 

[dysan]

I don't think he cares about the VCT solenoids if you are locking the cams...I suspect he is talking about the cam reluctors and cam sensors. Lito never discouraged me from removing my VCT solenoids when I did it. I wanted them out so it was one less thing to clog as I've seen some others have crap build up in the screens in the solenoids.

 

[lito]

Dumb question here, but the reluctor wheel is just to see where the cam is at, right?

So not having it means you wouldn't know where the cam is at? But if the cam is locked to the crank, all that really does is let you know if something got messed up, right?

Well, no, if not VCT, its function is to determine which stroke is at, remember that one cam rotation equals two crank rotations, that is why the reluctor on 2Vs is just a single notch in the gear.

Jim had mentioned that you liked them to still be there even if the cams were locked. I'm intrigued.

And I had plans on eliminating mine and plugging the valve covers. But if you want them there for tuning I'll leave them.

For NA, VCT is a better option, as you can get a more flat power curve, I've even tried advancing some aftermarket cams to play with more retard later on and it has worked really good.

On high power FI cars, locked is a better option, zero risk, the thing is to compromise where you want your power, for a PD blower where your boost curve is quite flat and instant, some locked retard will work nicely.

 

[Department Of Boost]

I don't think he cares about the VCT solenoids if you are locking the cams...I suspect he is talking about the cam reluctors and cam sensors. Lito never discouraged me from removing my VCT solenoids when I did it. I wanted them out so it was one less thing to clog as I've seen some others have crap build up in the screens in the solenoids.

Maybe I misunderstood Jim then. I couldn't imagine what the tune can do or tell from locked cams. But I'm no tuner either. Figured it would be best to ask.

I would like to ditch as much of that stuff as possible. Hell, i'm in for a wire delete if someone can figure it out.

 

[Department Of Boost]

On high power FI cars, locked is a better option, zero risk, the thing is to compromise where you want your power, for a PD blower where your boost curve is quite flat and instant, some locked retard will work nicely.

That's what i thought you liked. Jim had mentioned that you wanted for him to leave his VCT solenoids hooked up even though he was locked out, or I mis-understood.

I'm going to be making cam and cam timing decisions after Jim's car is running/tuned and on a dyno. We pretty much have the same setup. I'm just going to copy what works.

 

[lito]

That's what i thought you liked. Jim had mentioned that you wanted for him to leave his VCT solenoids hooked up even though he was locked out, or I mis-understood.

I'm going to be making cam and cam timing decisions after Jim's car is running/tuned and on a dyno. We pretty much have the same setup. I'm just going to copy what works.

The solenoids? if you go with the V10 plates you can ditch them, if not, you have to keep them but if going lock out, the V10 plates are nice and will provide better oiling.

 

[05mustang_TT_charged]

Dumb question here, but the reluctor wheel is just to see where the cam is at, right?

So not having it means you wouldn't know where the cam is at? But if the cam is locked to the crank, all that really does is let you know if something got messed up, right?

You need the reluctor wheel on the front of the cams and the cam position sensors. You do not have to keep the solenoids on if they are locked out. Trust me, we wasted a whole day on the dyno trying to tune my car with the first built motor, when the builder didn't reinstall the reluctors. The car acted crazy when going through rpm's and the computer looks for cam timing as part of the firing order when cranking.

 

[Department Of Boost]

The solenoids? if you go with the V10 plates you can ditch them, if not, you have to keep them but if going lock out, the V10 plates are nice and will provide better oiling.

Then that is the plan, thanks Lito

 

[lito]

Is fucking alive!

Actual first start, as promised is the actual first start ever! pretty uneventful, got a couple of chirp noises that went away as the only weird thing to report.



Here is an idle video.



Need to finish some stuff, like fixing the new clutch reservoir bracket and other stuff but main issue now is the shifter as this trans is not tilted like the magnum XL and the shifter is hitting the console. Will run it like this for a few days, with stock intake, injectors and TB until I resolve the reservoir issue (need an '10 to check something)

 

[Bobby]

Nice man cant wait to see some numbers.

 

[travelers]

Congrats on a uneventful startup.

 

[BruceH]

Nice. What's the baseline tune running? I'm thinking that you have it broken in by now on the dyno, lol.

 

[Department Of Boost]

What trans?