New worst at track

[19COBRA93]

I run Hoosier QTP's, and I drive on them to and from the track every time. And a lot of times I'll just leave them on after I get back home and drive on them through the week. My Track is 90 miles round trip, plus 4-8 passes each time, every other Friday night. This is my second season on them. I probably have 2k or 3k miles on them now, plus all the racing and burnouts, and there's still plenty left.

If anyone is wearing out any tires in 300-400 miles, they're doing something very very wrong. 300-400 miles (without track time) and the tires should still have remnants of the little mold nubs on them.

And I also think a 275/60 sized tire would be best for your setup.

 

[Grabber Blue 5.0]

I run the M/T 295/55-15 drag radials. When these wear out I may try the Hoosiers but will probably keep the same size.

These M/T still have some tread left but on the street right now they're completely worthless since the converter went in. Anything more than 3/4 throttle and the tires just spin pretty bad.

 

[Unreal]

1200-1500rwhp cars spin the 275s up on the street and just kill those tires. The 325s last a few thousand miles. Just going off several friends 1000+rwhp vettes that go through 275 pros quicker than oil changes.

Leaning towards the 295 hoosiers. 275 may work if track is prepped but this track is an ice skating rink and with the big converter I rather have too much tire than not enough. Considering I was blowing the 255 ET streets off through 2nd gear on stock converter, I don't see the 275 ET streets hooking with the stall.

 

[Grabber Blue 5.0]

Which Hoosiers would you go with? Link?

 

[BMR Tech]

1200-1500rwhp cars spin the 275s up on the street and just kill those tires. The 325s last a few thousand miles. Just going off several friends 1000+rwhp vettes that go through 275 pros quicker than oil changes.

Leaning towards the 295 hoosiers. 275 may work if track is prepped but this track is an ice skating rink and with the big converter I rather have too much tire than not enough. Considering I was blowing the 255 ET streets off through 2nd gear on stock converter, I don't see the 275 ET streets hooking with the stall.

I wouldn't even bother racing, if that is the case. lol

Our car, full bolt-on and VMP tuned......with a 265/40-18 was cutting 1.5's to 1.6's DEAD hooking back in the day.

We raced for 2 years in NMRA, all over the country, and I cannot recall spinning those tires one time!

That is with 3.73 gear, and a 3400~converter, too.

We put a 100 shot on it, and it still dead hooked, to the tune of 1.47 to 1.50's...

 

[Unreal]

Other option is not to race at all, and that is lame. Unless the upper arm/bracket and LCA brackets make a WORLD of difference I just don't see anything but a better tire hooking. The 255s on there now dead hook on the street no issues but track won't even hook 2nd.

Haven't done anything yet, and not doing anything until this guy buys the current rims/tires.

Leaning towards these
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hoo-17313/overview/

 

[BMR Tech]

I'll be keep an eye on it!

As for the UCA/LCA....the improvement you get from the LCA/UCA themselves may help, but geometry from IS/AS change should prove to help considerably.

 

[Unreal]

Was going to do the converter and UCA/LCA brackets this weekend but I got to go get a ZL1 1200+rwhp twin charged Camaro to tune for the weekend. Life is rough.

 

[Unreal]

Wheels are gone so time for new ones. Leaning towards race star 15x10 with the 295 hoosiers. Who has the best prices on race stars?

 

[Unreal]

Is this the right wheel? Seems like the 94s are $50 less a wheel. I'm all about cheap
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rce-94-510354p/overview/

Otherwise the 15x10 92 series.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rce-92-510154dp/overview/

 

[BMR Tech]

Those 94s you posted are UNI lug....that is why so cheap. They are trying to "close" those things out.

If you are all about cheap, get them. I ran uni lugs and came up with a few ways to make them non-hassle when installing.

The more expensive ones are direct drill.

Your call on that! I like Direct Drill better....but if you wanna be a cheap 1100HP C6-Z06 owning Mustang racer..then....

 

[Unreal]

I blew all my money on welds for the vette and mustang is the cheap beater.

The 94s are dual drilled which is nice. They said they are not the oval lugs. Not sure what is going on.

Had to drop $3k to put 15s on the vette so trying to be cheap with the mooostang

http://www.teambeefcakeracing.com/94-510354p----.html

You can see beefcake says they use centering washers but are not unilug, whatever that means.

 

[Unreal]

My welds are 7.5" BS 50 offset so those dual drill may actually fit the vette too. How is that for being cheap.

 

[BMR Tech]

Me likey!

 

[Unreal]

So those are the correct back spacing for a mustang though? If so I'll get them ordered ASAP.

 

[19COBRA93]

So those are the correct back spacing for a mustang though? If so I'll get them ordered ASAP.

Yes. Same specs as mine, and they fit perfect. I'm running a 28x13.50 on that wheel with no mods besides sway bar relocate (something you can't do on the 7.50" backspace of the Weld). The 7.25" is perfect.

 

[Unreal]

15x10 race star 92s with 295 hoosier 28" radials and BMR sway relocate on the way.

 

[BMR Tech]

DANG!

 

[Unreal]

Just couldn't get over how ugly the 94s are so spent the extra $100 for wheels I wouldn't be embarrassed to roll around on. 11.7 or bust next time out.