*** Oil pump worth the upgrade along with lockouts. ***

[SherrodMustang]

Im not familiar with the melling's to be honest. You would have to do some research..... Id assume the 10227 would be identical when comepared to either a 3v or 4v bypassed ford pump.... As far as oil pressures and when they start to bypass....

You cant go wrong with upgrading to the steel tensioners if you have the $, its real easy to install them and to do the pump, it will be apart anyway... Thats something I didnt do with my motor.....

Yeah, I believe the 10227 is really a 4v DOHC cobra pump. Will for sure go with the metal tensioners when I swap the pump. Will most likely swap alot of the timing components for brand new stuff.

Was looking at pictures taken when the timing was put together on my car at Brenspeed.

 

[NjsGT]

^ Brings back memo's

BTW, do Melling pump's have o-ringed outlets?

 

[SherrodMustang]

^ Brings back memo's

BTW, do Melling pump's have o-ringed outlets?

Good question, not sure.

The pictures show the timing componets very well and how they work. Also how the chains are lined up with the marks. Should be a easy swap for me, I hope. Everything is really new, only have about 1300 miles on the motor and parts right now.

 

[NjsGT]

Good question, not sure.

The pictures show the timing componets very well and how they work. Also how the chains are lined up with the marks. Should be a easy swap for me, I hope. Everything is really new, only have about 1300 miles on the motor and parts right now.

Its not so bad to do the timing. Just make sure before you take anything apart, turn the motor over so that the double crank sprocket's timing mark is at 6 oclock, you can see that done in your pics, 6th pic from the top.. Then follow this.... http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=159&viewfile=Engine.pdf

 

[GI Joe]

...the jury has returned...
....good luck with it all.......

 

[Corpo]

Very good write up, thanks for it.

I guess some of it I could be skip, as I will not be changing the heads. Will I still need to take the intake off and crossover? Also I know with my build they reused the stock tensioners (must be the plastic ones). All I bought new was the vct sprockets/bolts and new chains. I guess it would be a good time to upgrade the tensioners too the 2v metal ones? Anything else would be good to replace?

You can leave the intake and crossover on. You can also leave the water pump, altenator, and coolant in.

I would recommend pulling the fans out. You will need to pull the power steering pump. It's a pita to pull your oil pan. If you do you will probably need to change the gasket. If you can, find something to use as a net under the pickup tube incase you drop a bolt. Like a small strainer or something. Then you might get away without pulling the pan.

Also I believe you can get beefier chain guides and tensioner arms too if you wanted too.

 

[SherrodMustang]

Its not so bad to do the timing. Just make sure before you take anything apart, turn the motor over so that the double crank sprocket's timing mark is at 6 oclock, you can see that done in your pics, 6th pic from the top.. Then follow this.... http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=159&viewfile=Engine.pdf

Will do, going to take my time and make sure I put back together the way I take it apart.

...the jury has returned...
....good luck with it all.......

Thanks Dave, talking to you really made me start second guessing my pump and VCT not being lockout. After seeing that pump shattered on your workbench.... ouch.

You can leave the intake and crossover on. You can also leave the water pump, altenator, and coolant in.

I would recommend pulling the fans out. You will need to pull the power steering pump. It's a pita to pull your oil pan. If you do you will probably need to change the gasket. If you can, find something to use as a net under the pickup tube incase you drop a bolt. Like a small strainer or something. Then you might get away without pulling the pan.

Also I believe you can get beefier chain guides and tensioner arms too if you wanted too.

Thanks for the info.

Is there beefier chain guides and tensioner arms to be had? Was going for sure with the metal tensioners.

 

[StangPower05]

Go with a Melling and never look back

 

[SherrodMustang]

BBR lockouts order and new cam phaser bolts.

Do I need a new crank bolt? I currently have the ARP one with my overdrive crank.

Go with a Melling and never look back

Been looking for the best price on the Melling pump. Seen a new one on Ebay for $299.99 plus $9.95 shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MELL...aebQQitemZ290543151851QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts


Found all the timing parts thanks to this thread and post http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53483

I bought most of this from www.silverstatefordparts.com

(1) 4R3Z-6B274-BA Chain Guide - LH
(1) 4R3Z-6M256-CC Chain Guide - RH
(1) 1L2Z-6L253-AA Tensioner Arm - LH
(1) 1L2Z-6L253-BA Tensioner Arm - RH
(1) F6AZ-6L266-DA Tensioner - RH (2 Valve Steel Bodied)
(1) F6AZ-6L266-CA Tensioner - LH (2 Valve Steel Bodied)

Now just got to add this to my things to get completed before I can get the car running again..... LOL

 

[Corpo]

This is helpful.

 

[SherrodMustang]

Any certain way to disassenbly the the timing components? There is tension on the cams if I am correct? Can I just loose the the tensioners on the chains and remove the chains from the VCT and lower sprocket keeping everything lined up to be put back on. Loosen the cam bolts first with the chains on?


Any tips?

 

[NjsGT]

Any certain way to disassenbly the the timing components? There is tension on the cams if I am correct? Can I just loose the the tensioners on the chains and remove the chains from the VCT and lower sprocket keeping everything lined up to be put back on. Loosen the cam bolts first with the chains on?


Any tips?

Theres a bunch of ways to do it. I think I did it the long way by removing the rockers to loose the valve spring lash back..... You wont be able to move the cam sprockets timing marks to the correct positions with the cams on the springs.... Or thats what I ran into... Someone else chime in here, I believe there is a easlier way
Also, picking up a hydro chain tenisoner retaining clip makes installing the cast iron tensioner arms much easlier...

 

[SherrodMustang]

Theres a bunch of ways to do it. I think I did it the long way by removing the rockers to loose the valve spring lash back..... You wont be able to move the cam sprockets timing marks to the correct positions with the cams on the springs.... Or thats what I ran into... Someone else chime in here, I believe there is a easlier way
Also, picking up a hydro chain tenisoner retaining clip makes installing the cast iron tensioner arms much easlier...

What is a hydro chain tenisioner retaining clip?... LOL..


Yeah not sure on the disassembly of the components and how to get everything just right to take off and put back on. I know there is tension on the cams, and I would imagine once the chains come off they would release.

 

[Corpo]

Leave the car in gear to keep the engine at tdc. I'd unbolt both tensioner bolts, loosen one, take the other right out. The tensioner will swing and your chain will be loose, now your cam may jump inside the chain to a place where it is more at rest. Might startle you, but it's ok.

 

[NjsGT]

Sherrod, thats the retaining clip im talking about

 

[Corpo]

What is a hydro chain tenisioner retaining clip?... LOL..

I used a zip tie..

And a friend of mine used the 2v tensioners and it came with pins holding them compressed ready to install.

Also after you get your marks lined up, tensioners loaded on the guides, it's time to prime the oil system.

 

[NjsGT]

Leave the car in gear to keep the engine at tdc. I'd unbolt both tensioner bolts, loosen one, take the other right out. The tensioner will swing and your chain will be loose, now your cam may jump inside the chain to a place where it is more at rest. Might startle you, but it's ok.

Thats what Im talking about..... You can remove the rockers to prevent that......

 

[SherrodMustang]

Leave the car in gear to keep the engine at tdc. I'd unbolt both tensioner bolts, loosen one, take the other right out. The tensioner will swing and your chain will be loose, now your cam may jump inside the chain to a place where it is more at rest. Might startle you, but it's ok.

So I need to start with the car at TDC, best way to get to TDC on 3v car?

Then unbolt the tensioner from the head and the chain will jump on the sprocket with the release of the tension on the cams. No harm from this? Valves will not hit the pistons or something crazy!!

Can I say, rotate the engine until the timing marks are lined up with the chains and start from there? Can it even be lined up once it has been ran on the car? Release the tensioners freeing up the chain from the sprockets and let the cams loose.
Once I replace the oil pump, put it all back together by roatating the cams back with a wrench back to the starting position and lining the chains back up or do the cams move so far as not to be able to line back up. How far do they release?

Sherrod, thats the retaining clip im talking about

Must have been something Brenspeed used to keep the tensioners locked closed. Will it come with new ones from Ford, should have a retaining clip?

Thats what Im talking about..... You can remove the rockers to prevent that......

Now.... if I remove the rockers it will not slip at all. I guess that takes the tension out of the cams. Is this more work than it is worth?

 

[Pike2244]

Hey Sherrod, did you find a better price on the pump or was the $299 minus S&H the best you found??? Also, I was reading that you had I think about 1300 miles on the motor w/ the the stock pump, is that right? If so, were you really cautious when driving or did you drive it normal?

 

[SherrodMustang]

Hey Sherrod, did you find a better price on the pump or was the $299 minus S&H the best you found??? Also, I was reading that you had I think about 1300 miles on the motor w/ the the stock pump, is that right? If so, were you really cautious when driving or did you drive it normal?

$299 is the best I have found so far.

Yeah 1300 miles with the new gt500 pump. To be honest I drove it normal with no regard to it. Until I started swaping the blower out for the Kenne Bell unit did I start thinking about the oil pump and lockouts. Seeing dave's pump shattered to hell and him loosing his motor from it got me worried about my.

Wish I would have done it when the motor was being replaced at Brenspeed. Never thought about it or thought it was a issue until so many people started asking me about what pump I had and if a ran lockouts on my car. Ran the car on the dyno in Birmigham and the tuner was shocked that I didnt have lockouts in my car with amount of power I was pushing on the car.... LOL


Not to mention the car quit when I was at Brenspeed when I was breaking in the clutch for the dyno the next day. The drivers side sprocket cams apart and the car went out of timing and shut completely down. It messed the cam up and they had to take the head off and have it inspected for damage. I really thought it had messed the motor up. I ended up replacing bot VCT sprockets on both sides and had to get new head gasket on one side. There was no damage done to the head, thank god, brand new Livernois stage 2 heads.

Still I was 800 miles away from home getting my car worked on and had no way back with it. Brenspeed took care of me with a rental car to get back and I came back up three weeks later to get the car. The car had a ton of power to it, but had some tune issues with cold start ups and felt like it had some kinda funny thing going on with the cruise control. Brenspeed was working on a few of these things with me, but still hard when they are so far away. Ended up just taking the Saleen off and now building up with the Kenne Bell blower.

Should have know then to lockout the VCT also...

Going to have it tuned a little close to home this time. Eric Brooks is going to be doing the tuning, the same person who tuned GIJoe's car for 836rwhp with a Kenne Bell and E85. Hope to have it up and running end of this month or first of July or so.

Have to much invested to loose the motor because of a $300 part and no lockouts, not worth it.