On3Performance 3v build

Natural1

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Esco in Houston, it runs about $10 a fluid ounce. A 5oz tube of Copaltite liquid, is the size of a large tube of Colgate. I believe the paste is the same price and is good for rough or uneven surfaces.
 

Natural1

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Yep, if you have a joint leak that won't go away, it will do the trick. I have found that once I am frustrated, $50 is a very small number.
 

08nastygt

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The oil feed is SS the drain is not but I did buy new hose. Also I took it off and blew air through it n it went right through it. Yeah idk what I'll do I just kinda went back under n tightened the piss out of them so hopefully that works.
 

JeremyH

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It should be getting oil then you would definetly feel it in the rubber drain hose going to the pan. I have a sandwhich adaptor with my oil filter relocation that has 4 1/8 npt ports. Im going to be running my turbo supply off there.
 

08nastygt

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That's how my relocator is also. I blocked the ports off that weren't needed I never thought of using them to feed the turbo.
 

JeremyH

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Yeap i also plan on running the oil pressure and temp gauge off the other ports eventually. Most ss oil line kits come with an to 1/8 ntp adaptors as well.
 

08nastygt

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So I guess the line was clogged, started it real quick and shut it off. Oil shot all over so that is good. Also 90% of the leaks are fixed and I stopped by the dyno today, he said theres only 3 cars hes gotta tune next week and I should be able to take it up hopefully. Going to be hard though with school and work through the week.
 

SilentScope

Chemist by profession
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getting real close now!
good to hear oil is working, could have ended up being a serious headache!
the car can wait, dont neglect school/work.
 

08nastygt

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Here's some quick pics
0a8da4f6.jpg

80d1c9c5.jpg


Yeah school is pretty important, it's just that mod bug will make you do anything to have it done haha. I think I might get that stuff natural was talking about. Put some around the headers and take some clamps off and put some around the pipes and be done with it.
 

Towelly

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What are you using for a catch can? How are you doing the passenger side? Sorry if this was awnsered before, I didn't see it.
 

Bullitt357

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Is that a worm hose clamp attaching the silicone hose to the throttle body? That needs to be a t-bolt clamp or it will eventually blow off, sooner than later.
 

08nastygt

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For a catch can I'm using a UPR and on the passenger side I'm using a K&N breather. I am using the stock intake tube clamp, I didn't think about it blowing off. I figured since it holds the stock intake tube it'll hold that.
 

Bullitt357

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For a catch can I'm using a UPR and on the passenger side I'm using a K&N breather. I am using the stock intake tube clamp, I didn't think about it blowing off. I figured since it holds the stock intake tube it'll hold that.

the worm hose clamp is fine for n/a, but in a forced induction application the boost will literally inflate that hose like a balloon and a t-bolt clamp is needed. Just trying to save you some frustration. That clamp should really be included in their kit or at minimum they should tell you you need one.
 

onequicktang

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For a catch can I'm using a UPR and on the passenger side I'm using a K&N breather. I am using the stock intake tube clamp, I didn't think about it blowing off. I figured since it holds the stock intake tube it'll hold that.

Isn't this not the right way to do this? Shouldn't it be breathers or catch cans not both? I think this is the UN metered air situation some one correct me if i am wrong?
 

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