P0351 - p0358 secondary coil fault problems

Jnip87

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So I have been fighting with a bad hesitation / misfire in my car for well over two months now and at my wits end, I have an 05 gt 4.6 3v, with a kenne bell 2.6 running 39lb injectors, tuned by run with the devil tuning in 07 and the tune has been on it since then with no issues. So far I have check and verified that I have injector pulse and ignition pulse at the coils and the injectors, I replaced the spark plugs which seemed to help a very small amount but didn't resolve the issue, I ran chevron techron fuel system cleaner through the tank with only 10 gal since that is what ford recommends, I replaced the fuel filter, reflashed the tune onto the ecu, swapped the alternator with a friends due to my voltage being sporadic ranging anywhere from 10.7 to 15.2 while driving buts holds steady at 14.2 at idle, it did the same thing with the donor alt as well, I am fairly certain that there is a problem there because my headlights seem to dim at a stop and brighten when I accelerate again. My fuel pressure also fluctuates when the car does its hesitation, which is not always present, it mostly happens once the car is warmed up and when maintaining a speed, if I am leaving a stop light and just causally going through the gears there is no problems, but once up to speed it will begin bucking and falling on its face, come to a stop and start over and its gone again. While it is hesitating the fuel pressure seems to drop then spike over and over, but my scan gauge that reads the pressure on the rail holds fairly steady around 38-42lbs, while the gauge in the pod will drop to under 20 and up to 60? im not getting any other codes to lead me to a sensor, like a cam phasor or crank sensor which would be really helpful btw. only those coil codes. also I swapped around the coils but to no avail, the idle never seemed to change and the codes are for all 8 cyl so no help there narrowing it down to a specific cyl either. Please help this car is my daily that I go to work in and take my kid to daycare with, I have been having to tear into it after work and put it back together so I can drive it the next day. Any help would be appreciated.
 

Gabe

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Some of the older Escapes had issues with this type of DTC's ... P0351-P0356 (only through 6 since they were 6-cyl cars) and Ford had a TSB on them to replace all the coils and the PCM cuz the PCM injector drivers were no good.

The P035x type of code has to do with the PCM's injector driver more than an actual misfire.

You may need a PCM
 

Jnip87

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Some of the older Escapes had issues with this type of DTC's ... P0351-P0356 (only through 6 since they were 6-cyl cars) and Ford had a TSB on them to replace all the coils and the PCM cuz the PCM injector drivers were no good.

The P035x type of code has to do with the PCM's injector driver more than an actual misfire.

You may need a PCM

i did see the tsb on the escape and for the fusion as well. i did not however see any mention of the mustangs having the same issue, but i tested the pcm anyway to be sure and with a noid light i had a good injector and ignition pulse on all eight cyls. Thank you for the help, apparently no one else wants to chime in.
 

stkjock

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long shot - did you check the battery?

these cars can act wacky with electrical issue
 

BruceH

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So I have been fighting with a bad hesitation / misfire in my car for well over two months now and at my wits end, I have an 05 gt 4.6 3v, with a kenne bell 2.6 running 39lb injectors, tuned by run with the devil tuning in 07 and the tune has been on it since then with no issues. So far I have check and verified that I have injector pulse and ignition pulse at the coils and the injectors, I replaced the spark plugs which seemed to help a very small amount but didn't resolve the issue, I ran chevron techron fuel system cleaner through the tank with only 10 gal since that is what ford recommends, I replaced the fuel filter, reflashed the tune onto the ecu, swapped the alternator with a friends due to my voltage being sporadic ranging anywhere from 10.7 to 15.2 while driving buts holds steady at 14.2 at idle, it did the same thing with the donor alt as well, I am fairly certain that there is a problem there because my headlights seem to dim at a stop and brighten when I accelerate again. My fuel pressure also fluctuates when the car does its hesitation, which is not always present, it mostly happens once the car is warmed up and when maintaining a speed, if I am leaving a stop light and just causally going through the gears there is no problems, but once up to speed it will begin bucking and falling on its face, come to a stop and start over and its gone again. While it is hesitating the fuel pressure seems to drop then spike over and over, but my scan gauge that reads the pressure on the rail holds fairly steady around 38-42lbs, while the gauge in the pod will drop to under 20 and up to 60? im not getting any other codes to lead me to a sensor, like a cam phasor or crank sensor which would be really helpful btw. only those coil codes. also I swapped around the coils but to no avail, the idle never seemed to change and the codes are for all 8 cyl so no help there narrowing it down to a specific cyl either. Please help this car is my daily that I go to work in and take my kid to daycare with, I have been having to tear into it after work and put it back together so I can drive it the next day. Any help would be appreciated.

There is a chance that you replaced bad plugs with bad plugs. It's happened more than once on this forum. It's always involved Brisk whenever it's happened.
 

Jnip87

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My battery is currently holding at 12.56 volts when the engine is off, and 14.2 when running, the plugs are the E3 diamond fire type with less then 1,000 miles on them. i have seen that some people with the P035x codes have changed one or two coils and had the problems resolved but i cant seem to pin point which coil if any is bad, i feel like it is an electrical issue like a bad alternator but cant explain why the donor one that was used did the exact same things
 

Gabe

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E3 plugs are crap

Throw some OEM Motorcrafts in there
 

Jnip87

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i just load tested the alternator and the positive cable at the terminal just about burnt my hand
 

BruceH

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My battery is currently holding at 12.56 volts when the engine is off, and 14.2 when running, the plugs are the E3 diamond fire type with less then 1,000 miles on them. i have seen that some people with the P035x codes have changed one or two coils and had the problems resolved but i cant seem to pin point which coil if any is bad, i feel like it is an electrical issue like a bad alternator but cant explain why the donor one that was used did the exact same things

The only plugs that consistently survive forced induction in the high thread heads are Autolite HT0 gapped at .030-.032. Even then it's suggested to change them at least once a year.
 

Jnip87

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i do know that the plugs should be changed around every 12 to 15k, unfortunatly i did not know that the E3s are junk, i will have to get some new ones that Bruce has recomended, as far as the hot battery cable, that doesnt seem normal to me, during the load test the volts were from 13.9 to 14.09 with one spike to 18.1 then right back to aprox 14 volts. I know that the pcm uses the cam sensors to adjust the engine speed at idle to compensate for engine load, is it possible that i have a sensor going bad and i just not getting a dtc for it? could my tune be blocking it?
 

Jnip87

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So I am still struggling to figure out what is going on with my car, I have been going through the trouble shooting guide in the PCED book and I have a 11.8v draw on my battery, I am currently on step JF7 checking the suspect cool driver circuit for a short to VPWR in the harness, and I shouldn't have any more than 1v but I am showing 11.8v so now I need to find the short but I can't seem to find a good wiring diagram. Also on step JF8 check the suspect cool driver circuit for a short to Ground in the harness, I should have over 10k ohms but I am only showing 280 is it possible to have a short to ground and power on the same circuit?
 

HG6283

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To me, the headlight-dimming at idle is a potential clue.
Check that the ground wire connections from the battery negative to both the engine and to the chassis are clean and tight.



.
 

Jnip87

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Thanks for the links! And I'll have to climb under it and check those grounds today when I get off work, as far as the codes there are three that will be listed twice, I believe it's p0351 355 and 356, and then it will have all eight listed again. I will try to see which exact ones are listed twice and which ones are first. Thanks for that thought I didn't even think to focus my attention on those.
 

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