Piecing together a custom roll bar

Dubstep Shep

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After doing a bit of research, I decided a roll bar would be a good investment.


I've looked around at every pre-made roll bar for our cars, and they all have at least one thing I don't like.

At first I was looking at the Wolfe Racecraft six point, but unfortunately it mounts to the floorboards.

I then looked at the Maximum Motorsports bar, and I must say, the main hoop mounting system is A+++. Unfortunately, the rear bars aren't offered in an x-brace, they don't mount the shock towers, which is somewhat of a big deal as I'll be doing a Griggs coil-over kit, and it's made of mild steel instead of chrome moly.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Street-4-point-Mustang-Roll-Bar-no-door-bars-no-harness-mount-2005-hardtop-P1289.aspx

Then I checked out Cool Tech LLC and their Boss 302 roll cage. I really like their design, but like the MM bar, it isn't offered with a rear x-brace and it's mild steel. It does, however, have rear shock tower brace mounting system that looks fantastic.
http://www.cooltechllc.com/Boss/Boss_Roll_Bar.shtml


After this I pretty much decided that a custom cage was going to be necessary. That said, I'm by no means an expert in cage construction or design, and there are plenty of companies and cage builders that have that kind expertise.


So first things first, I established what exactly I wanted in a roll bar.

Mounts to the main B-pillar gussets, NOT the floor pan.

The rear braces are in a x-brace and mount to the rear shock towers.

Made of Chrome-Moly tubing. I haven't figured out what diameter, thickness, or material spec yet though. I figured I would research some different class requirements for roll bars and go from there. Opinions welcome on this one. I did find this page though, which looks like a great guide:
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/support/welding-how-to/pages/chrome-moly-detail.aspx

Completely removable door bars. Really these aren't a big deal; I may not even end up doing door bars, but if I do I would like to be able to take them out.

I'd also like to be able to do most of the welding outside the car and then put it in the car to finish it. I know the MM bar does exactly that because it's a bolt in design, but I'm not sure if I want that or a weld in design.


Next I did was take a closer look at the various cage designs and look into how I wanted mine to be made.

As far as I could tell, the tubing design and construction is a pretty standard process and could easily be done by a competent cage builder easily.

That said, attaching the tubing to the chassis seems like an area that is a bit more complex. Something that I'd rather rely on a major company to design and test specifically for my car rather than a custom piece.

I called Maximum Motorsports and explained my situation. I asked if they would be willing to sell me a pair of the replacement gusset plates separately. Lo and behold, they actually sell those plates individually! They told me it was a recent decision though, so it isn't up on their website. I went ahead and ordered them. $190, plus shipping. Not a bad deal at all.

Next I called up Cool Tech. They said they would have to call me back however. I'm interested in finding out if they'll sell me just the mounting plates for their shock tower brace, as the actual brace is mild steel. That or see if they could make me one in Chrome-Moly unpainted.

I haven't decided who I want to build the cage though. Someone local would be nice, so if you guys know of any in Oklahoma, let me know. The one recommendation I did get was this guy:
http://www.mickeyschassisworks.com/


Anyways, that's where I'm at now with this project. Hopefully I'll have a better idea of what exactly I want in a day or two. I'll update then.
 
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zeroescape

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I believe watson racing could do this. Dont look at the pre-made ones listed on internet, but call them. I would think they could sell you the rear part of a road race cage. My understanding is the watson made 302s and r rear shock towers are tied together like cooltech.
 

Dubstep Shep

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I believe watson racing could do this. Dont look at the pre-made ones listed on internet, but call them. I would think they could sell you the rear part of a road race cage. My understanding is the watson made 302s and r rear shock towers are tied together like cooltech.


I'll check them out as soon as I get home tonight. Thanks!
 

Dubstep Shep

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Scratch that. Quick Google image search confirmed you were correct.

Here's the pic I saw:
yda2yzu6.jpg
 

5.ohmygod

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If you use chrome-Moly tubing, you need to make sure your welder is familiar with the post weld heat treating that is required. Otherwise the heat affected zone of the weld is brittle. In my opinion, you're better off with a slightly heavier wall dom tubing than you are with chrome-moly if you're not able to heat treat it.
 

Dubstep Shep

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If you use chrome-Moly tubing, you need to make sure your welder is familiar with the post weld heat treating that is required. Otherwise the heat affected zone of the weld is brittle. In my opinion, you're better off with a slightly heavier wall dom tubing than you are with chrome-moly if you're not able to heat treat it.


There's a link in the original post to a write up on welding chrome moly tubing that says a post weld heat treatment isn't necessary on thin walled tubing.

I'm not an expert by any means, but if done properly it doesn't seem like it would bad idea to heat treat after.
 

5.ohmygod

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I just read the link, and I see what you're saying. DOM vs chrome-moly tubing is a hotly debated topic among a lot of builders. Chrome-moly definitely has its place, but it's not always the best choice. Ultimately this deserves a lot of research and thought, a cage is something that could save your life someday.
 

Dubstep Shep

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I just read the link, and I see what you're saying. DOM vs chrome-moly tubing is a hotly debated topic among a lot of builders. Chrome-moly definitely has its place, but it's not always the best choice. Ultimately this deserves a lot of research and thought, a cage is something that could save your life someday.


I completely agree. If you're going to take one thing seriously, it's safety.

As far as the comparison, a lighter and smaller cage will suit my needs better, even if it is more troublesome to install.
 

ddd4114

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If you're interested, Cool Tech can probably add a diagonal support between the main hoop and a shock tower. I've also seen a version of their main hoop that includes a diagonal brace, so that's definitely possible to get. They're pretty accommodating of custom orders (within reason). However, since it's a bolt-in design, it might be a total pain in the ass to install in the car with an extra joint. I have their standard design installed in my car, and it took 2 friends, some minor trimming, and a lot of elbow grease to get everything bolted together.
 

ArizonaGT

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Forget the chrome-moly if you're planning on doing any racing with NASA/SCCA or any other reputable racing organization.
 

Roadracer350

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I'm doing this now also. If you ate going to piece one together and do most or all of the welding yourself like me then you need the right size bar. Most all of the racing orgs want 1.750" di with at least a .090 wall. The Jegs prebent cages are to small in di but at .130 wall their good BUT if you start out with one of their 4pt you weld it bars their the right size at 1.750/.130 then add your door bars, halo etc. grab a rule book from each org and make sure you do it right. You will also prolly need to take your front and rear glass out so you can weld the bars all the way around. My local Safelight auto glass said they will come out and remove/install my glass for 100 each.
 

Roadracer350

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There's a link in the original post to a write up on welding chrome moly tubing that says a post weld heat treatment isn't necessary on thin walled tubing.

I'm not an expert by any means, but if done properly it doesn't seem like it would bad idea to heat treat after.

I have welded a LOT of Chrome Moly and if you weld it correctly with the right TIG rod then you won't need to pre or post heat. Any CM tube .125 and below you can run with CR70/1018 rod and as long as you use the correct settings, post flow gas and come off the pedal nice and slow with no crater you will get no cracking and no post heat is needed. :thumb:
 

Dubstep Shep

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Forget the chrome-moly if you're planning on doing any racing with NASA/SCCA or any other reputable racing organization.


Why is that?


What kind of racing are you planning on doing (if any)?


Road track. Maybe some drift and drag events just for fun, but nothing serious.

I have welded a LOT of Chrome Moly and if you weld it correctly with the right TIG rod then you won't need to pre or post heat. Any CM tube .125 and below you can run with CR70/1018 rod and as long as you use the correct settings, post flow gas and come off the pedal nice and slow with no crater you will get no cracking and no post heat is needed. :thumb:


Kinda what I thought. It's not very thick tubing at all so the force of the cooling pipe tugging on the weld is pretty minor.
 

Roadracer350

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He is prolly saying forget the CM tube because most racing orgs specifically tell you what they want as far as material which is usually mild steel seamless DOM tubing. At least that's what I'm seeing. IMHO CM tube is overkill for what most of us are doing unless your doing a full tube chassis and want to save some weight. It's easier and WAY cheaper just to do seamless DOM steel
 
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Dubstep Shep

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He is prolly saying forget the CM tube because most racing orgs specifically tell you what they want as far as material which is usually mild steel seamless DOM tubing. At least that's what I'm seeing. IMHO CM tube is overkill for what most of us are doing unless your doing a full tube chassis and want to save some weight. It's easier and WAY cheaper just to do seamless DOM steel


Don't a lot of organizations have requirements for both materials?

The way I understand it CM is stronger, so you can use less of it, which is why it's lighter and smaller. Price wise, I looked at tube by the foot at it was $4.40 for DOM steel and $5.87 for CM in the same exact sizing. That doesn't account for being able to use smaller CM either.

Eventually, when I make this a dedicated track car, I'll be going back with a full cage, but for now it's just unnecessary and inconvenient. I figured at that point I would take this cage out and either sell it or use it as a base for the rest of the cage. Probably the former as I've seen recommendations on adding to a cage once it's designed.
 

Dubstep Shep

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Though I'm not opposed to a DOM tubing depending on price and weight differences. I just want to get the best product I can, you know?
 

neema

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Road track. Maybe some drift and drag events just for fun, but nothing serious.


If you're going to enter into any organization's event, including HPDEs, start by looking at their rulebook and work backwards. It's easy to build a car to your liking and come to find out it is mis-classed or won't pass tech. NASA and SCCA rules are typically referred to as the norm for road course racing. Start from there
 

Dubstep Shep

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If you're going to enter into any organization's event, including HPDEs, start by looking at their rulebook and work backwards. It's easy to build a car to your liking and come to find out it is mis-classed or won't pass tech. NASA and SCCA rules are typically referred to as the norm for road course racing. Start from there


Sounds like a good idea.

I'm guessing that information is probably available on their websites?
 

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