Proper lowering setup/components

[Whiskey11]

So if I go with some taller ball joints I would be able to get some more negative camber?

Thanks for the info

Quite the opposite... You will lose some static negative camber by going to taller ball joints but you will not lose negative camber during body roll as quickly and shouldn't need as much either.

The other purpose is as SoundGuyDave said, which is to raise the front roll center above the ground again which helps combat body roll geometrically which also helps keep the front suspension in the good part of the camber curve.

 

[BigRed06GT]

Nope. All the ball joints will do is change the front roll center, which I don't think is something you need to worry about if your main goal is to slam the car, and not focus on handling.

Quite the opposite... You will lose some static negative camber by going to taller ball joints but you will not lose negative camber during body roll as quickly and shouldn't need as much either.

The other purpose is as SoundGuyDave said, which is to raise the front roll center above the ground again which helps combat body roll geometrically which also helps keep the front suspension in the good part of the camber curve.

Not a fan of slammed cars . I would much rather my car handle better.

Info is greatly appreciated from both of you and I will start looking into ball joints after I do the brakes. Thanks

 

[Roadracer350]

Just because a car is slammed does not mean it does not handle. I have seen an FR500S where the splitter was dragging the ground (almost) and the tyres were tucked in the fender wells a little handle better than ANY other car on the track. I just dropped mine and so far it handles almost as good as a buddies full blown track car I drove and the apex of my fender wells are 26.5". Granted it may be to low but after the holidays I am going to let Vorshlag set her up and if she gets raised a smige then oh well.

 

[Roadracer350]

My head hurts.

Hmmm..........you guys have me concerned about the J&M camber plates now, even if I run them flipped 180. With my Roush setup I'm at spec with no camber plates (but there is no wiggle room to go any further). I was thinking of going no more than -1 to -1.5 with the J&M plates. At spec with the Roush springs I've been really happy with tire wear in terms of 'daily driver' and haven't seen any significant wear on the tire. Maybe slightly more on the inside but still getting good life out of the tires. In terms of 'running the course' I've been on the fence about the Eibach's (wondering if they were too low). Right now I get a pretty good ride from my setup with the Roush springs and stock struts/shocks............but...........I've got way too much rebound, especially out back. I don't recall any significant times when I "bottomed" out. As much as I'd love to close up a little more wheel gap maybe the best bet is to stick with the Roush springs and look into an adjustable shock/strut. With the Roush springs I'd think the J&M camber plates would still work??

If your going to buy some plates go with the Vorshlag plates.