sportinawoody
!@#$%^&*(
so back in 2014 I built a stout bottom end that I also blueprinted because the usual stock block cutting a window from boost.
fast forward 4 years and 31k miles extremely hard miles and probably only 30 passes on manual, 7 passes on built 6r80 swap, issues were light bearing tap under light throttle cruising, popping back under decel, changed plugs and ran a bore scope down just to be noisy and found one piston oiled down, "ironically it was the same cylinder that had the brand new dead bosch 1000cc injector I bought as a set from bobby at s&h and went thru a shit storm over" and a timing chain rattle at cold start-up. basic run down of the build was:
oliver stroker rods
Kellogg 3.75" crank
diamond 17cc pistons
total seal ap steel rings
tss gears
arp everything
stock heads with chamber work, comp 127300's.
Got it tore down tonight and found bearings worn but all journals good, mains looked worse than the rods and appeared to be wearing more on the edge than across the entire surface. I do run a dedicated 10 rib drive on a whipple that sees 17 lbs. one of my tensioner arms studs was broken and laying in the oil pan, one piston pin seized in the piston, milky shit on 5 heads studs, and one piston hole full of surface rust. Also a few of the head studs were extremely tight in the holes and I ran them down by hand and didnt tighten when assembled. wondering if I even trust the block now. Ive got a brand new set of stage 3 heads with manley beadloc oversized valves and 127550's. you guys know if its possible to check head bolt threads for cracks ? pistons have a little scuffing on skirts. going to go back with billet arms, tensioners, reluctor wheel, and adjustable gears and degree cams this go round. Any ideas on bearing wear or the bolt holes ?
fast forward 4 years and 31k miles extremely hard miles and probably only 30 passes on manual, 7 passes on built 6r80 swap, issues were light bearing tap under light throttle cruising, popping back under decel, changed plugs and ran a bore scope down just to be noisy and found one piston oiled down, "ironically it was the same cylinder that had the brand new dead bosch 1000cc injector I bought as a set from bobby at s&h and went thru a shit storm over" and a timing chain rattle at cold start-up. basic run down of the build was:
oliver stroker rods
Kellogg 3.75" crank
diamond 17cc pistons
total seal ap steel rings
tss gears
arp everything
stock heads with chamber work, comp 127300's.
Got it tore down tonight and found bearings worn but all journals good, mains looked worse than the rods and appeared to be wearing more on the edge than across the entire surface. I do run a dedicated 10 rib drive on a whipple that sees 17 lbs. one of my tensioner arms studs was broken and laying in the oil pan, one piston pin seized in the piston, milky shit on 5 heads studs, and one piston hole full of surface rust. Also a few of the head studs were extremely tight in the holes and I ran them down by hand and didnt tighten when assembled. wondering if I even trust the block now. Ive got a brand new set of stage 3 heads with manley beadloc oversized valves and 127550's. you guys know if its possible to check head bolt threads for cracks ? pistons have a little scuffing on skirts. going to go back with billet arms, tensioners, reluctor wheel, and adjustable gears and degree cams this go round. Any ideas on bearing wear or the bolt holes ?
Last edited:
