Replace "base" radio/CD, speakers, etc

drwells42

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All,

I'm working on a "long term" plan for audio in my '07. I currently have the "base" audio system, not Shaker 500 or 1000.

When and if I do this, I'm wondering if I need to replace the door panels with a set from one with the "Shaker" system. (i.e. including the big woofers in the door) If so, how would I go about wiring up the extra speakers? I'm assuming that I will have a new "head unit", probably a "double DIN".

Any information would be helpful

DRW
 

cavero

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Yeah you'll definitely need a new radio/head unit. Doesn't have to be double DIN, that's just the size. There are single DIN units (half the height) that should have the subwoofer outputs you'll need.

Do you need the door panels with the shaker system? Not necessarily, you can also get a subwoofer box that goes in the trunk.

But the main thing is you'll need a new radio with subwoofer outputs on it. And the other catch is you'll need an amplifier to drive the subs too. There's two kinds of audio outputs, line-level and speaker-level. Line level are you're pre-outs, they're like hooking in your DVD player to your TV. They're low voltage (2-5V) and aren't strong enough to move the speakers at a volume you can actually hear. They're just there to send the audio signal to something that can.

Then there's the speaker-level outputs, which are a higher voltage and stronger signals that actually can move the speakers at listening volume.

Most radios have a small built-in amp that gives you the speaker-level outputs to drive the 4 main speakers (you'll see this in specs as 4 channels, usually ~ 15W RMS/50W peak power) but I've never seen one that has a built in amp to provide speaker-level outputs for the subwoofers. All I've ever seen is having the pre-outs/line level outputs for the subs, meaning you'd need an external amp to amplify them up to speaker level. Even the factory Shaker 500 has separate amps for the subwoofers (on the left wall above the driver's side footwell).

So you might be looking at one of the following options:
- new head unit
- Shaker 500/Shaker 1000 door panels with subs
- small 2 channel amplifier for the subs (you have to be careful about the power level of the amp -- too strong and you can burn out the subs)

Or a more OEM-like setup (if your car already has all the wiring under the dash for the Shaker system)
- new head unit
- Shaker door panels w/ subs
- OEM subwoofer amplifiers

Or go completely aftermarket
- new head unit
- shaker door panels, no speakers
- new 6x8 speakers for the upper doors and rear deck
- shallow mount 8" subs to go in the doors (Kicker used to make a compatible set)
- 6 channel amp (4 channels for the main speakers, 2 for the subwoofers)

Hopefully this helps get you started. Ther're a few threads on the forum about different pieces of this. Also check out Crutchfield, they've got a great site and great advisors too.
 

drwells42

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Or a more OEM-like setup (if your car already has all the wiring under the dash for the Shaker system)
- new head unit
- Shaker door panels w/ subs
- OEM subwoofer amplifiers

Many thanks for the advice. I'm kind-of inclined to go with the OEM-like system if practical.

FWIW, I'm actually a classical music fan, (OK, some jazz too) so I don't need earth-shaking bass, but I'm also a lower brass guy, so I want to hear the trombones and tubas.

Is there an easy way to determine whether my car has the existing wiring for the Shaker system?

DRW
 

MrBhp

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I think my shaker 500 said such on the head unit. Does yours have any writing on it?
 

cavero

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Not 100% sure off the top of my head but could start by looking to see if there's any connectors in the driver's side foot well, or you might need to pull the radio and look at the connectors that go into the back of the head unit. Probably gotta dig up the wiring diagram and look for the right pins and color wires in the plugs on your car
 

Miker

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Yeah you'll definitely need a new radio/head unit. Doesn't have to be double DIN, that's just the size. There are single DIN units (half the height) that should have the subwoofer outputs you'll need.

Do you need the door panels with the shaker system? Not necessarily, you can also get a subwoofer box that goes in the trunk.

But the main thing is you'll need a new radio with subwoofer outputs on it. And the other catch is you'll need an amplifier to drive the subs too. There's two kinds of audio outputs, line-level and speaker-level. Line level are you're pre-outs, they're like hooking in your DVD player to your TV. They're low voltage (2-5V) and aren't strong enough to move the speakers at a volume you can actually hear. They're just there to send the audio signal to something that can.

Then there's the speaker-level outputs, which are a higher voltage and stronger signals that actually can move the speakers at listening volume.

Most radios have a small built-in amp that gives you the speaker-level outputs to drive the 4 main speakers (you'll see this in specs as 4 channels, usually ~ 15W RMS/50W peak power) but I've never seen one that has a built in amp to provide speaker-level outputs for the subwoofers. All I've ever seen is having the pre-outs/line level outputs for the subs, meaning you'd need an external amp to amplify them up to speaker level. Even the factory Shaker 500 has separate amps for the subwoofers (on the left wall above the driver's side footwell).

So you might be looking at one of the following options:
- new head unit
- Shaker 500/Shaker 1000 door panels with subs
- small 2 channel amplifier for the subs (you have to be careful about the power level of the amp -- too strong and you can burn out the subs)

Or a more OEM-like setup (if your car already has all the wiring under the dash for the Shaker system)
- new head unit
- Shaker door panels w/ subs
- OEM subwoofer amplifiers

Or go completely aftermarket
- new head unit
- shaker door panels, no speakers
- new 6x8 speakers for the upper doors and rear deck
- shallow mount 8" subs to go in the doors (Kicker used to make a compatible set)
- 6 channel amp (4 channels for the main speakers, 2 for the subwoofers)

Hopefully this helps get you started. Ther're a few threads on the forum about different pieces of this. Also check out Crutchfield, they've got a great site and great advisors too.


I had to take my radio apart in my 2005 as it didn't like the CDs I fed it. They were some I had burned. They skipped and jammed it up. Funny thing is in my 2004 F150 they work perfectly. It still skips at times and it is annoying. If I could find a better player that would fit and be somewhat plug and play I would change it out. A back up camera would be a bonus but it would have to play CDs. Also mine is a 2005 so no AUX capability. If the radio would take my Ipod another bonus. CDs, Ipod, stuck in the past I am.
Mine is the Shaker 500
Any recommendations?
 

cavero

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Ah yes, the Skipper 500. I ended up swapping out mine in 2008 after it skipped the entire way home one day. Might've punched it. A lot of people have issues with it draining their batteries even w/ the ignition off too.

For reco's, check out Crutchfield.com, they've got filters that really help you drill down to what's going to best fit your needs. I like Pioneer and Kenwood but most things they sell will be pretty decent. You can also email their advisors who are pretty good. CD players are getting harder to get but still reasonable, finding ones that support backup cameras are easy. Ipod? Goooooood luck. :shrug: I think they've been completely replaced by CarPlay at this point. You might be able to find an older aftermarket.

I think our cars are still simple enough that any aftermarket radio is going to be fairly straightforward, but it's still going to mean splicing up an adapter harness. Crutchfield lists two options when you pick the radio. One is free and one is $65. It looks like the $65 one lets you keep some factory features. I think either one you'll have to splice the adapter harness into the new radio's harness. After that, you plug one side into the radio and the other into the car's wiring harness.


There's also one of these Android-based head units (no CD player though). My wife has one on her Mazda (different brand, Eonon) and it was pretty much plug and play. She got it on a black friday sale too, so saved some money. These are expensive, but you're replacing the entire panel, not just the radio. That's how they can give you 9" touch screen (vs the biggest touch screen I've seen for a double-din radio replacement is 7").
 
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