Audio controls on steering wheel not working

[Firefighter46]

I have a 2013 Base model, non-sync, V6 (I know it's in the wrong forum, but I figured this would get seen more here), the vehicle is new to me and I'm fixing things one at a time. Right now I'm trying to fix the steering wheel audio controls (mode, volume up/down, channel-track up/down). They don't do anything. I currently have the airbag out, there are no audio DTC's either using a scanner or accessing thru the Shaker head unit, and the wiring looks unmolested.
When I use Forscan and pull up the steering wheel audio control PID's in the ACU they say "Inactive" with no change when the buttons are pushed while watching live data.
All the buttons on the left side of the wheel work fine, cruise, display, reset.
The buttons physically feel a bit worn, but I'd expect to get something out of at least one of them. The concerning part is the "Inactive" response when looking at the individual channel in Forscan.
Does anyone know what that term actually stands for?

 

[DieHarder]

In my book "Inactive" means there is No connectivity. Sounds like the circuit is open which means either switch/connector/cabling most likely suspects. I'd take a VOM and test the switch for continuity (using ohms) by removing the switch and probing the connector; then compare to the other side. If you get readings from one but not the other the problem is likely the switch itself. If both switches show readings most likely it's a connector or cabling which you can test for continuity end to end. A new/used switch online shouldn't be that much.

 

[Firefighter46]

I think I like the idea of checking the cable first. I can pull both sets of switches and the main cable out and get them on the bench and continuity test both sets.
I'm still leaning against it being a clock spring since it's strictly one side/one set of switches.

 

[DieHarder]

I think I like the idea of checking the cable first. I can pull both sets of switches and the main cable out and get them on the bench and continuity test both sets.
I'm still leaning against it being a clock spring since it's strictly one side/one set of switches.

Roger that.

 

[Firefighter46]

UPDATE:
Took steering wheel out of vehicle. Checked steering wheel harness, switches to clock spring/all good.
Checked right side audio switches for function/all good, switches function as should.
Reinstalled steering wheel, plugged harness into clock spring, left side switches function as before/all good, right side switches still INOP.
It's honestly acting like the radio doesn't know the switches are even there.
I'm at a loss....

 

[DieHarder]

Any idea if the radio has ever been out or messed with?

Are the switch connectors the same? If so, is it possible to connect the left side switches to the right side connector at the steering wheel and recheck what Forscan says? That will tell you if the problem is with the right side switch/connector/cabling though the test you preformed appears to indicate the switches work as they should. Just thinking that may be the easiest test available.

Otherwise, you'll need to isolate where you're losing connectivity. To do that remove the connector at the back of the radio where the audio switches come in and preform the same ohms/connectivity test. That should tell you whether the switches and cabling are providing the signal/ground needed to change channels from end to end.

 

[Firefighter46]

As it turns out the As Built file wasn't right. The radio didn't know the switches were even there.
I reloaded the factory As Built and everything is working now.

 

[DieHarder]

As it turns out the As Built file wasn't right. The radio didn't know the switches were even there.
I reloaded the factory As Built and everything is working now.

How did you determine that?

 

[Firefighter46]

Compared the file loaded in the ACM with the factory As Built file and noted differences.
My car was pulled apart at some point, instrument panel included, and I'm not 100% sure the original parts were used to put it back together.