Stock Caliper problem (still)

[latch5]

Trying to live with stock calipers which I know some of our more experienced members say can be done. Using Cobalt XR2 pads. Stopping well but disintigraded my second set of caliper pistons. I assume I am buiding too much heat. Problem seemed to start when I start running slicks (NT01). Since I am using 17" stock rims I am limited to most big brake kits.

Does anyone make a an upgraded caliper that can be uses on Mustang stock rotors? Is there astainless piston that can be used in stock rotors.

Would appreciate any help you can provide. I'm losing my will to fight and starting to eye Miatas (Uhhhhgggggggg)

 

[DusterRT]

Hmm. Well, I've heard of titanium shims used as a thermal barrier in brake systems..do you have any sort of cooling/ducting setup?

 

[latch5]

Should have mentioned that I do have ducting to the rotors already

 

[DusterRT]

Should have mentioned that I do have ducting to the rotors already

What's your ducting like at the knuckle? Any air directed at the caliper?

 

[pcdrj]

Willwood might have something that fits over 17" wheels.

http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitList.aspx?year=2006&make=Ford&model=Mustang

 

[latch5]

Using Quantum mounts at the hub - hose is abt 1" away from rotor hub. Not at the caliper (looked for a mount like this but could not find one). Not using the stock inner rotor gaurd.

 

[DusterRT]

At under $90, these may be something worth trying..

http://tispeed.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_7_137_697&products_id=96

I ask about the ducting because some guys call a hose pointed vaguely towards the brakes "ducting" so...just thought I would cover that base first.

 

[pieperz06]

At under $90, these may be something worth trying..

http://tispeed.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_7_137_697&products_id=96

im confused about where that actually goes on the caliper

 

[Captain_Stangin']

Looks like a backing plate for the pads. I think you'd put them behind the pads. I'm going to take a better look at these, because I was able to melt my front piston dust boots on the factory pirelli tires, even with brake ducting and DTC70s. I am now running r888s, so I expect even more heat.

 

[Vapour Trails]

Could melting the piston dust boots lead to a loss of fluid and braking?

Are we talking about melting dust boots the front and rear brakes?

 

[Captain_Stangin']

Could melting the piston dust boots lead to a loss of fluid and braking?

Are we talking about melting dust boots the front and rear brakes?

I just melted the fronts a little bit, rears are O.K.

I have tested the brakes again, on the street and did 1 auto-x, brake fluid level is perfect.

 

[pieperz06]

my front brakes look like shit i think all but maby one boot is not ripped to shreds

 

[Captain_Stangin']

my front brakes look like shit i think all but maby one boot is not ripped to shreds

That makes me feel a little more confident. I guess I won't be replacing the calipers at the end of this track season then.

My caliper boots have a few tears in them due to the melting, I think I will just pack them with brake caliper grease, and that should stop random crap from getting in them.....until I hit the open track and burn all that grease off, crap, back to the drawing board...

 

[pieperz06]

my car has 70k miles on it and i have been tracking it for 40k of them useing the dt70/60

i think i will need calipers soon

 

[Kaldar142]

Could melting the piston dust boots lead to a loss of fluid and braking?

Are we talking about melting dust boots the front and rear brakes?

No, but i'm sure it would effect the longevity of the caliper pistons and probably eventually the performance of it.

I've actually popped out a piston before, just popped it right back in and had no leaks.

 

[Gray Ghost GT]

Compress your brake zone - get on them hard to the threshold of ABS activation - then release. This will allow them to cool more between application. A common mistake is to ride the brake or apply them twice in the brake zone, which creates more heat and reduces cooling time between application. You can smoothly but aggressively engage the brakes - its quite a rush especially as you threshold brake to transfer the weight of the car and pivot the rear around to allow you to get on the throttle quicker as you throttle steer to progress through the apex. It's one of the best moments for me on a road course! Straight aways are boring.

 

[latch5]

Yr msg makes a lot of sense. I'm still taking an instructor every other track day (Porsche of BMW club). They always stress smooth transitions but the car does feel better with threashold braking and a little bit of "tossing" the back end. Coincidentialy, I seem to have less brake/tire wear whe I treat her rough.

PS Just came across a brake system from Strange Engineering. Looks like it might be more of a Drag Brake application. Anyone have any experience with this company.

 

[Gray Ghost GT]

Yr msg makes a lot of sense. I'm still taking an instructor every other track day (Porsche of BMW club). They always stress smooth transitions but the car does feel better with threashold braking and a little bit of "tossing" the back end. Coincidentialy, I seem to have less brake/tire wear whe I treat her rough.

PS Just came across a brake system from Strange Engineering. Looks like it might be more of a Drag Brake application. Anyone have any experience with this company.

Threshold braking and throttle steering are more advanced techniques, but its good to keep them in the back of your mind as you progress with your instructor by mentally picturing the process in your mind. They are correct - you don't want to upset the car by harshly applying brake or throttle. You can smoothly squeeze the brakes to threshold and smoothly apply throttle as you accelerate - think of it this way - the brake and gas pedal is NOT an On/Off switch, they are a rheostat switch.

 

[TheKurgan]

I think you'd spend more money on a Wilwood setup than just going ahead and buying wheels and Brembo's. I burned up a couple set of stock calipers, but they never leaked fluid. That was with the Quantum brake ducts too. Still, they were baked bad enough and I decided I didn't want to buy a new set of calipers for every event. My home track(Hallett) is very brake intensive and the Brembo's without backing plates work great.

 

[Thevesh]

Does anyone make a an upgraded caliper that can be uses on Mustang stock rotors? Is there astainless piston that can be used in stock rotors.

Would appreciate any help you can provide. I'm losing my will to fight and starting to eye Miatas (Uhhhhgggggggg)

Griggs has some quality calipers which may be used on stock rotors as I recall. Am I correct?