Stock Radiator Fan CFM?

[SUHleen]

I tried searching on Google and on here for about 2 hours and could not find what the specs are on the stock radiator fan. Trying to decrease under hood temps.

 

[Mustang Mark]

A cooler thermostat may help, and would be much cheaper.

 

[JUSTA3V]

I'm running a 160 stat and a mishimoto rad with the pro charger fan and I'm having issues.

224 in stop and go traffic. No AC. it's like the stat didn't help at all with temps

My ambiant was 110 though.

 

[702GT]

Dude it's been 108-112 in Vegas, my coolant temps hang out at 194/204 no AC/AC on. I'm running the procharger slim fan, stock radiator, 180 T-stat.

No offense, but most of my mustang friends that have run the Mishimoto radiators have had all kinds of issues with them. They all have gone back to OEM radiators. The procharger fan sucks without a doubt, but it does a decent job considering. I just can't stand how loud it is.

I don't have the stock specs, but I have seen the FRPP GT500 fan modified to fit for a procharger setup. You could try searching the archives for it.

 

[JUSTA3V]

So this rad may be my issue?

 

[702GT]

So this rad may be my issue?

Could be a contributor. I also feel a 160 t-stat is steep for a daily driver. Most track cars run low temp t-stats at the drag strip so they are wide open and get the most initial cooling, particularly PD cars who suffer heat soak enough as it is. These low t-stats on the street make it like running with a t-stat that is stuck open all the time, so there is no regulation in flow. Once the car is hot, you are at the utter mercy of your radiator and fan. A higher temp t-stat like a 180 or 195 allows the t-stat to function as a regulator, coolant below 195 will replace coolant that is over 195, the t-stat restricts flow and allows the hot coolant to slow down in the radiator and give more time to transfer heat.

A 160 t-stat can work in a full open loop, but you *must* have the radiator capacity and fan CFM to remove enough heat for as fast as coolant will flow at full open.

I'm not saying you should get a higher temp t-stat and that will fix it, but the 160 is basically "stuck open" as the coolant is hot beyond its ability to regulate.

As far as the mishimoto radiator, the only way to know is to put the stock one back in and see what happens. Or get a massive cfm fan that fits a procharger system.

 

[JeremyH]

Around 2000cfm for stock fan and shroud.

Fan should only be running when your going slow or stopped though so that's not going to be your root cause.

If your seriously about lowering underhood temps. First step should be venting the hood, then open the grill, then cooling system mods such as radiator and t-stat.

The mishimoto radiator works great, been running one for 6 years. Made a noticeable difference in coolant temps coming up and going down.

 

[SUHleen]

I have an Afco radiator, so that is why I am surprised my under hood temps are what they are. I do need a cowl hood, which will help vent air out, but I feel like I could take advantage of a better fan setup. I just do not remember what kind of t-stat was put in when I had everything done 4 years ago. I guess I can change it out since it does not cost very much and it would be good piece of mind. Even 20 minutes of running idle and the engine coolant tank will burn my finger just barely touching it seems like. Afco makes great products so I do not think the radiator needs swapped.

And thats even with ambient temps being about 85 and no AC

 

[JUSTA3V]

Makes total sense. Thanks. I have had cars that overheated after I removed my stat. That was years ago.

As for the car. It's one sneeze away from being racecar... So it's not a daily anymore.

I'm on the hunt for a big ass slim fan I think.

 

[JeremyH]

I have an Afco radiator, so that is why I am surprised my under hood temps are what they are. I do need a cowl hood, which will help vent air out, but I feel like I could take advantage of a better fan setup. I just do not remember what kind of t-stat was put in when I had everything done 4 years ago. I guess I can change it out since it does not cost very much and it would be good piece of mind. Even 20 minutes of running idle and the engine coolant tank will burn my finger just barely touching it seems like. Afco makes great products so I do not think the radiator needs swapped.

And thats even with ambient temps being about 85 and no AC

A larger capacity radiator just keeps the engine colder longer and is more efficient at cooling down when hot. The T-stat is an easy thing to check and swap first.

Contrary to popular belief a cowl(induction) hood does not vent air out the back, it actually pulls air into the engine bay from the back of the cowl at the windshield as its a high pressure area. Not the same thing as a vented hood or hood scoop. You need to promote flow through the engine bay this will get more air through the core and transfer more heat, but the key is giving it a place to go.

A higher flowing fan will just simply run full time to try to correct the issue you have. When driving at 30-40mph+ the fan should not even come on.

 

[SUHleen]

A larger capacity radiator just keeps the engine colder longer and is more efficient at cooling down when hot. The T-stat is an easy thing to check and swap first.

Contrary to popular belief a cowl(induction) hood does not vent air out the back, it actually pulls air into the engine bay from the back of the cowl at the windshield as its a high pressure area. Not the same thing as a vented hood or hood scoop. You need to promote flow through the engine bay this will get more air through the core and transfer more heat, but the key is giving it a place to go.

A higher flowing fan will just simply run full time to try to correct the issue you have. When driving at 30-40mph+ the fan should not even come on.

So the cowl wouldn't even work if I opened up the grill area? So air would flow in through the grill and make a straight path out of the back?

So are you recommending I don't change the fan out? I figured if I throw in a better tstat and better fan that should help out until I get a better hood put on. If I did a better fan, it would be wired to the factory harness so it would kick on whenever the stock fan would just move more air and move it quicker

 

[mustangtcs]

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...engine-and-IAT2-temps-with-free-mod&highlight=

I read the above from beginning to end last June. He proved that on our cars the hood does vent out the rear while stopped and on the road moving. He made a video and attached strings to the back of the hood so you could see them blowing outward from the hood. So I did this to my car and it actually made a big difference. I never had any cooling problems as my car cools immediately when the fan comes on and has never ran hot. The biggest difference was stop and go traffic when your IAT's want to creep up. And it made at least a 20 degree difference from a Hot start. Before I would go out to eat lunch. Shut the car off. A half hour later come back and the IAT's were thru the roof. Not now as the hood vents heat out while it sits. I did also put one washer on either side to help the venting.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

The answer is to either swap in GT500 hood vents into your existing hood, or just swap over the whole hood from a GT500. The vents are positioned behind the radiator, which is optimum for allowing the hot air that's pulled through the radiator to escape both at idle and at highway speeds. The fan can thus work more efficiently as you'd no longer have hot air "stacking up" under the hood.

 

[JeremyH]

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?873526-Lower-engine-and-IAT2-temps-with-free-mod&highlight=

I read the above from beginning to end last June. He proved that on our cars the hood does vent out the rear while stopped and on the road moving. He made a video and attached strings to the back of the hood so you could see them blowing outward from the hood. So I did this to my car and it actually made a big difference. I never had any cooling problems as my car cools immediately when the fan comes on and has never ran hot. The biggest difference was stop and go traffic when your IAT's want to creep up. And it made at least a 20 degree difference from a Hot start. Before I would go out to eat lunch. Shut the car off. A half hour later come back and the IAT's were thru the roof. Not now as the hood vents heat out while it sits. I did also put one washer on either side to help the venting.

Nothing to prove really that's common sense, when sitting still or moving it will absolutely let heat out just like opening the hood. Goes for most hood/car designs. I personally didn't like the idea of this method and took it a step further and made my hood scoop functional lol.

Its hood design that pulls the air in the back, a cowl induction hood is designed to pull air in the back when the vehicle is at speed. And then the heat is all pulled out the bottom of the engine bay under the car as it normally is.

So the cowl wouldn't even work if I opened up the grill area? So air would flow in through the grill and make a straight path out of the back?

So are you recommending I don't change the fan out? I figured if I throw in a better tstat and better fan that should help out until I get a better hood put on. If I did a better fan, it would be wired to the factory harness so it would kick on whenever the stock fan would just move more air and move it quicker

Cowl hood will not give you the style benefits your looking for, while it will pull cooler air in the back, a vented hood will is more suited to extract the hot air pulled from the radiator core..

It will help yes, but like I said the fan is only for when using ac or sitting still otherwise it doesn't even run. It's the airflow through the radiator and engine bay that removes the heat while driving. So the fan will help when sitting still to pull more heat from the core but now your putting more heat into the engine and the fan has to have some where to push the air.

Lowering coolant temps and underhood temps isn't a onesie twosies kinda of thing its all these mods working together. Vented hood being most important from my experience. The rest all help as well. But the biggest gain is from getting the heat out easier in the first place.

 

[JeremyH]

Just remembered I did this awhile back here is some numerical data vice touching things with your hand etc.

I tested hood scoop open vice taped closed.

Got a nice thermal temp gun for christmas so finally got around do doing some testing of the open hood scoop mod I did years back.

To see info on this mod and how I and others have done it look here:

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22443&highlight=scoop

(on mine I left the stock honeycomb in place and opened up the back of it)

I will do another run this summer on a hot day as well and add it to the thread later on.


Intial conditions for todays "wintertime" test. 45 degrees outside. Let the car warm up to 190 degrees before testing (where my high speed fan kicks on). I then drove for 15 minutes on the same route before each test which involved a mix of city and highway driving. Then I came back home immediately opened the hood and took the temps with engine still running.

Run 1 - Hood scoop taped shut.

Turbo compressor cover

Intake pipe

Thottlebody

Intake manifold

Fuel rail

Run 2 - Hood scoop open.

Turbo compressor cover

Intake pipe

Thottlebody

Intake manifod

Fuel rail

So results for "wintertime" 45 degree day test are:

-----------------------------Closed Scoop-------Open Scoop---------Difference-----
Turbo compressor cover------ 141.5 -------------- 115.5 ------------- -26.0
Intake pipe------------------- 98.0 --------------- 78.5 ------------- -19.5
Throttlebody----------------- 85.0 --------------- 68.5 -------------- -16.5
Intake manifold--------------- 101.5 -------------- 87.0 ------------- -14.5
Fuel rail---------------------- 114.0 -------------- 106.0 ------------- -8.0


So big difference! And overall average underhood temps were 13 degrees cooler with the scoop open. Not bad for a free mod.

 

[mustangtcs]

Just remembered I did this awhile back here is some numerical data vice touching things with your hand etc.

I tested hood scoop open vice taped closed.

Jeremy that is a great test you did. I thought about making my scoop functional like you did. It would put fresh air directly on my Kenne Bell while moving and also let it vent while sitting still. I am worried at speed the scoop may rip off though. I have the Roush style scoop on my car. Any comment on that whether or not you think the scoop will rip off at speed?

 

[JeremyH]

Never heard of one ripping off the 3m tape and bolts are pretty damn strong.

 

[JUSTA3V]

This is the hood I'm running. Best of both world in my opinion when I got it.

Yet I still saw 224 engine temps with it.



How important is the plastic valance that goes under the rad ? I removed it to put the BMR k member in and never reinstalled it.

 

[roberts]

sub as im woundering what to do to, but I have a 3in cowl hood ready to be painted.

 

[JeremyH]

I got the new stalker hood from cervini with scoop and extractors as well.