Stuck Rich codes (P2196 and P2198)

Macman45

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Went to move my 07 out of the driveway, first time in about 3-4 weeks. Started fine, moved jr and shut it off. Went back an hour later to move into the garage and met with a check engine. Scanned to 4 codes: all about stuck rich. Both banks, both O2’s reporting. Can’t be both sensors have failed, so something is triggering them. Any ideas? Car seems to run ok.
Codes:
P2196
P2198
 
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Edqe

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Clear the codes. Shut off all accessories: radio, A/C blower fan, lights. Start car. Just let it idle until it reaches normal running temp. Next turn on all accessories and let it idle for 10 minutes.
 

07 Boss

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Have you data logged the situation? I mean it could be a lot of things like too much fuel pressure to a bad MAF.
 

Edqe

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Test the voltage after start up and after reaching normal running temp with all accessories on. Drive it around for a bit and test again. Your test results should read between 13.8-14.1+ the entire time. If not, your alternator is starting to go. A weak alternator can cause the issues you’re experiencing.
 

Pentalab

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I had a similar scenario pop-up one morning in the middle of the Wuhan virus lockdown era. Resources and logistics were fractionally available to properly address the sudden anomalies.
Erratic DTCs, but the very long, bizarre story was simple: the $50 plastic fuel rail pressure sensor disintegrated and sent full boogie fuel to the cylinders, throwing O2 bank codes, etc. The motor hydrolocked during the KOEO diagnostic cycles, gas flooded the intake, and the epilogue was my motor being replaced by a local Ford dealership.
I wish you the best, sir.
And what's to stop that from happening again ? This is like an accident waiting to happen.
 

Macman45

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I had a similar scenario pop-up one morning in the middle of the Wuhan virus lockdown era. Resources and logistics were fractionally available to properly address the sudden anomalies.
Erratic DTCs, but the very long, bizarre story was simple: the $50 plastic fuel rail pressure sensor disintegrated and sent full boogie fuel to the cylinders, throwing O2 bank codes, etc. The motor hydrolocked during the KOEO diagnostic cycles, gas flooded the intake, and the epilogue was my motor being replaced by a local Ford dealership.
I wish you the best, sir.
Did the regulator look physically bad?
 

Edqe

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Try cleaning the MAF sensor or replace with an OEM part. Stick with common issues related to the codes involving both sides of the engine. Keeps us posted!
 

collum

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Nope. Alternator is checking out fine. Takes a while for codes to return but the sluggish start is present. Doing plugs here soon. Maybe parts cannon’ing that FPRS.
Did you find out what the problem is I got the same issue but mine don't smell rich it's got new maf new oxygen sensors new coils new spark plugs new fuel filter new no vacuum leaks the only thing I figured it could be is fuel pump.my psi is 31 at idle when car is warmed up and when I accelerate it goes to 27 psi
 

Pentalab

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Did you find out what the problem is I got the same issue but mine don't smell rich it's got new maf new oxygen sensors new coils new spark plugs new fuel filter new no vacuum leaks the only thing I figured it could be is fuel pump.my psi is 31 at idle when car is warmed up and when I accelerate it goes to 27 psi
My 2010 GT sits at 40 psi, idle or accelerating. With key on, eng off, it's 50 psi.
 

Macman45

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Did you find out what the problem is I got the same issue but mine don't smell rich it's got new maf new oxygen sensors new coils new spark plugs new fuel filter new no vacuum leaks the only thing I figured it could be is fuel pump.my psi is 31 at idle when car is warmed up and when I accelerate it goes to 27 psi
I did actually. Forgot to update the thread. The EVAP purge valve was bad and stuck. Traced back to a botched tape job on the evap canister line under the trunk. Looks like PO ran over something, taped the line up poorly and over time the purge solenoid failed as a result. New junkyard purge valve solved all problems instantly. Haven’t had a code since.
 

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