Tires for 19x9.5

[sheizasosay]

Stock (street) category autocross is a piss-poor basis for judging proper wheel to tire widths. Wheel width is limited to OE, while tire sizes are limited only by what you can squeeze on and expect to hold air.

Ultimately, you end up with people running tires for which the minimum recommended wheel width is well over an inch wider than the OE wheel width that you're stuck with. Think 295/xx on 8.5" wheels (but please don't run that combination anywhere except at an autocross event).


FWIW, every car of mine that has ever been autocrossed has run on wheels at least an inch wider than the originals and which weren't any narrower than 1/2" below max recommended for the tires fitted to them. The more heavily modified cars have ended up with wheels 2.5" to 3" wider than the original wheels they came with, and a couple of times that's stepped half an inch past max recommended for a subsequent set of tires.


2008 V6 - the first guideline I ever heard was to choose a wheel width from 1" smaller than the tire's measured tread width to 1" more than the tire's tread width. That was 40+ years ago, and my point is that there's no reason to turn your nose up at wheel widths greater than the measured tread widths of the tires you intend to fit to them.


Norm

Funny. I was just prancing around the interwebz for more info. Trying to find hard data actually; laptimes etc/test....blah blah. Ran across a thread and then a guy that worked at a tire company and then as I scroll down....Norm Peterson lol!! Norm is everywhere.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/wheels-tires/432951-widest-tire-9-5-a.html

 

[Norm Peterson]

Not trying to be rude so take it that way BUT
– Who gives a waxed albino’s whiteish ass about section width unless your rubbing or on too small or large a rim. Tread width is what contacts the surface and keeps your car glued to the ground. The sidewall is going to float all over the place trying to keep the tread in contact with whatever surface it’s on.

Section width as-installed does have something to do with how well that tread is supported. I think you already recognize this.

BTW, my track wheel/tire package has roughly 1 mm tire to strut clearance.

The more you bulge the tire on a small rim the more it floats. Just like a taller profile tire.

Pretty much why I don't want to see any more than just a hint of sidewall bulge.

Too wide a rim stretching that tire out trying to look like a ricer

Don't confuse intent here just because of what's probably the more commonly seen application. Hell, I was running tires on wheels out around max-recommended width before there was any real interest in modifying little Japanese sedans, so I suppose I could claim that they're copying (and exaggerating) what I've always done. Never was afraid to do things my own way.

There is no give and the tire will break LOOSE unpredictably. So it’s a balancing act on how you want the car to behave – Just like setting up you suspension.

There is still some "give", just less of it. Yes, breakaway will tend to be slightly more abrupt, but it's not going to be beyond human skill levels to cope with. Trust me.

I still stand by my basic rule set - Tread width ½” wider than rim width max for best communication on a high performance street tire.

People are different, and apparently that's what you're currently most comfortable with. To me, that's about where the average OE sedan belongs.


Norm

 

[2008 V6]

Section width as-installed does have something to do with how well that tread is supported. I think you already recognize this.

BTW, my track wheel/tire package has roughly 1 mm tire to strut clearance.



Pretty much why I don't want to see any more than just a hint of sidewall bulge.


Don't confuse intent here just because of what's probably the more commonly seen application. Hell, I was running tires on wheels out around max-recommended width before there was any real interest in modifying little Japanese sedans, so I suppose I could claim that they're copying (and exaggerating) what I've always done. Never was afraid to do things my own way.


There is still some "give", just less of it. Yes, breakaway will tend to be slightly more abrupt, but it's not going to be beyond human skill levels to cope with. Trust me.



People are different, and apparently that's what you're currently most comfortable with. To me, that's about where the average OE sedan belongs.


Norm

Thank you Norm -

Well – My communication skills seem to be lacking so example is given.

Norm – I agree with just about everything you say as usual.

I said MAXIMUM ½”larger than rim size (Not Optimum) for best communication for a street tire.

Yes my car is set up like a sedan – Street car that has to survive Kalifornia streets, pot holes, curb jumping, squirrel squishing, and train track crossing without bending a rim or popping a tire – Wife’s beater / transport to & from work grocery getter that I beat when I have time and opportunity – rarely - unfortunately. I use the same multiple heat cycled tires on track that my wife uses daily driven on the street until no tread left - literally. Why, I’m not racing for money or braggin rights – I do HPTDs now. I am out to have fun and to re-learn the basics of car control in a safe environment. I don’t need race tires or a huge contact patch. Waste of money for me now. What I do need is alota seat time practicing. I do trust the tires I use even when almost corded because being an idiot I corded 2 at speed.

So – that being said, (I) wouldn’t put a 225mm (225/25.4 = approximate 8.858” width) on a 10.5+” rim. I see this in LA Kalifornia. I also wouldn’t run a 295mm (295/25.4 = approximately 11.61” on a 8.5’” rim) I have seen this also in Kalifornia. Will the work – YES – but not nearly Optimum for going around a corner.