To add Boss Intake or Not....

[Seer]

But numbers don't mean anything if talking about different dynos. JJ did a back to back test with the parts to show the true gain.

Some dynos just read happy but they are a great tuning tool; and in this case as it was the same dyno; shows a good comparison of before/after.

I haven't bought into the boss manifold making street cars faster at the track. I met some of the members from this site out at the track that had the IDENTICAL setup as I did other than him having a boss manifold. We both even had Kona blue GTs on 15" racestars and I ran quicker and even had a better trap. I believe the boss can be paired with a right combination but most mildly modded cars don't fall into that. Yes the boss makes more power at 7000 rpm, i understand that, but it loses power before getting there. It's a questionable mod to say the least but does look great.

I also did the same tests. Anyway, its all in the driver as well. I've met drivers who can crank out amazing times with minimal mods, and have seen SC'd cars run shitty times.

If you look at my mod list, youll see why I went with the boss.

 

[D98GT]

Boss + nitrous is a great setup and has been shown by AM to take care of business on their 10 second car.

I believe an o/r midpipe would be a great modification for the OP if he doesn't plan to do headers anytime real soon

 

[Seer]

Boss + nitrous is a great setup and has been shown by AM to take care of business on their 10 second car.

I believe an o/r midpipe would be a great modification for the OP if he doesn't plan to do headers anytime real soon

Yep, I feel you'll probably see bigger gains with the OR pipe as well.

 

[JJ@WMS]

But numbers don't mean anything if talking about different dynos. JJ did a back to back test with the parts to show the true gain.

Some dynos just read happy but they are a great tuning tool; and in this case as it was the same dyno; shows a good comparison of before/after.

I haven't bought into the boss manifold making street cars faster at the track. I met some of the members from this site out at the track that had the IDENTICAL setup as I did other than him having a boss manifold. We both even had Kona blue GTs on 15" racestars and I ran quicker and even had a better trap. I believe the boss can be paired with a right combination but most mildly modded cars don't fall into that. Yes the boss makes more power at 7000 rpm, i understand that, but it loses power before getting there. It's a questionable mod to say the least but does look great.

Yes we did back to back comparisons of several products as we are not biased one way or another because its your hard earned money that should be spent wisely and we feel that our input may help you make the right decision.

As far as the boss is concerned you need 3:73's for a stick or 4:10's for an auto to maximise the gains and our results dont lie. 11.1's on several occasions with a best MPH of 123 all N/A with a few bolt ons and 3550 race weight. No tricks, no gimmicks just what works and works well.

Dyno's dont mean anything in the real world and we have a brand new Dynojet that we use on a daily basis, just like we use our torque wrenches when tightening lug nuts, its a tool and a tool that is used correctly will help you do a better job. Our own car only makes 436hp on its race tune but can deliver 1.4 60fts and 11.1's with ease. We are shooting for 10's N/A soon and will hopefully deliver the goods. No special bling this or carbon fiber that just plain and simple stuff that works and if you dont believe me compare this mod list to some of the "big boys" who go slower....

Boss intake
3:90 gears with true trac
JLT CAI
WMS tune
Metco LCA's with relocation brackets
front swaybar delete/rad support
bigs and littles, full slick
Dynatech LT's with catless mids
Pypes supersytem
Dynotech alum driveshaft
Mcleod RST clutch
Barton shifter (only recently added)

Stock shocks/struts/springs/UCA and a Cervinis hood that added weight.

The driver is also doing his job so that helps as well.

JJ

 

[D98GT]

Well said JJ; I like seeing when you post up threads with dyno results as you lay it out there rather than padding numbers to help sell a product that you might offer/install.

It's always best to shop with someone that runs the items that they sell.

 

[Seer]

Well said JJ; I like seeing when you post up threads with dyno results as you lay it out there rather than padding numbers to help sell a product that you might offer/install.

It's always best to shop with someone that runs the items that they sell.

yep, agreed. 11.1 is smoking though for a 1.4 60' and only 436rwhp.

What track is this? MIR? I also wish I could get a 3550 race weight, WOW

 

[JJ@WMS]

yep, agreed. 11.1 is smoking though for a 1.4 60' and only 436rwhp.

What track is this? MIR? I also wish I could get a 3550 race weight, WOW

This past weekend was MIR and our best times have come there. I didnt 1.4 60ft this weekend but had a 1.56 on the 11.15 run. (friday night TNT)

During qualifying on Sat I lifted at 1000ft in hopes of running 11.5's for the class but went 11.26@113 and the very next qualifying pass I lifted earlier to and 11.24@113 I couldnt even slow the car down like I wanted to and I really didnt want to "go for a number" Sat because they take .1 off your best qualifying effort as your dial for Sunday.

Here is how Sunday worked out.
http://www.mirdrag.com/v2/results/2011/11-10/11-10-16/COYOTE_COMP_2011-10-16.html

Our car stock was 3695 with me in it.

JJ

 

[Seer]

This past weekend was MIR and our best times have come there. I didnt 1.4 60ft this weekend but had a 1.56 on the 11.15 run. (friday night TNT)

During qualifying on Sat I lifted at 1000ft in hopes of running 11.5's for the class but went 11.26@113 and the very next qualifying pass I lifted earlier to and 11.24@113 I couldnt even slow the car down like I wanted to and I really didnt want to "go for a number" Sat because they take .1 off your best qualifying effort as your dial for Sunday.

Here is how Sunday worked out.
http://www.mirdrag.com/v2/results/2011/11-10/11-10-16/COYOTE_COMP_2011-10-16.html

Our car stock was 3695 with me in it.

JJ

just amazing. Now granted I had some nitrous bottle issues (it was mounted upside down, meaning pickup tube was facing up and the bottle was also sideways)

So my shot was basically cut in half. I also race at a slower track with a higher elevation than those east coast maryland and jersey tracks but wow. So I'm estimating my 11.3 (also a 1.49 60') was with a 75 shot or so.

I'm hoping to pickup maybe .4 or so running at MIR next month.

LOL, should have you bang some gears in my car, I'm betting youre a bit smaller than me.

Although I'm heading to the track saturday, with lighter 15's (had 17s now have weld rt-s on the back), fixed the bottle mounting, and added a boss intake and kept the 125 jets.

10's or bust.

 

[Sky Render]

If you don't track or race your car, then putting a BOSS intake on will make absolutely no difference other than lightening your wallet.

Unless, of course, you routinely hit 6,500 RPM on your way to work.

 

[assasinator]

Well said JJ; I like seeing when you post up threads with dyno results as you lay it out there rather than padding numbers to help sell a product that you might offer/install.

It's always best to shop with someone that runs the items that they sell.

ive personally been against this manifold. but im getting one anyway. i already backed out previously, but i think folks are seeing great runs with it. i dont drag race my car at the strip, but hate to lose on the street to equal cars. im always looking for an edge. i guess ill get on soon. i also want it just to have it in case it gets cancelled.

 

[Seer]

ive personally been against this manifold. but im getting one anyway. i already backed out previously, but i think folks are seeing great runs with it. i dont drag race my car at the strip, but hate to lose on the street to equal cars. im always looking for an edge. i guess ill get on soon. i also want it just to have it in case it gets cancelled.

Here is a way to justify it. If you plan to shift past 7000,it is worth it. The intake also increases the peak power not only past 7000 but over 5500. So you are basically creating more HP on the top end and extending your power band, essentially making better usage of your gearing.

I'm not going to lie, I was in your shoes before, I only went back to the Boss because I added a nitrous kit into the mix and would feel a benefit of the extra revs + the spray.

 

[kystang615]

Yes, no, yes , no, I gotta make my mind up

 

[jayman33]

Just buy my manifold and get an O/R X pipe and call it a day!!

 

[kystang615]

I would like to add a OR X Pipe but am wondering if it would make my Borla SType cat back exhaust way to loud...

 

[Seer]

I would like to add a OR X Pipe but am wondering if it would make my Borla SType cat back exhaust way to loud...

You'll see a larger power gain for the money with an ORX than headers with just a bolt on car.

Boss intake is good if you're going in the upper RPM constantly. I personally do not feel any torque loss down below but I also feel it is all in your tune.

 

[VTXFrank]

I was set on getting the BOSS Intake myself. Then, after thinking about it long and hard and knowing that I would need to go from the 3.55's currently in my car to 3.73's, plus rev my motor to 7500rpm to take advantage of the total RPM range of power this intake is meant for, I decided against it. If I ever pull the cams and put in better springs, I'll go with the BOSS intake and rev the motor that high. But as it is now, I don't like going too much over 7k. I want this engine to last and the higher you're shifting it, the harder it is on the motor. I'd rather just go F/I and be done with it.

If you plan on a positive displacement super charger in the future, it's a waste of money. If you plan on a centri, you'll still be able to use the BOSS intake.

Ultimately, it's up to you. I don't see a dragstrip very often, and plan on a positive displacement blower, so to me, that's the nail in the coffin of my decision to not get one.

 

[Seer]

I was set on getting the BOSS Intake myself. Then, after thinking about it long and hard and knowing that I would need to go from the 3.55's currently in my car to 3.73's, plus rev my motor to 7500rpm to take advantage of the total RPM range of power this intake is meant for, I decided against it. If I ever pull the cams and put in better springs, I'll go with the BOSS intake and rev the motor that high. But as it is now, I don't like going too much over 7k. I want this engine to last and the higher you're shifting it, the harder it is on the motor. I'd rather just go F/I and be done with it.

If you plan on a positive displacement super charger in the future, it's a waste of money. If you plan on a centri, you'll still be able to use the BOSS intake.

Ultimately, it's up to you. I don't see a dragstrip very often, and plan on a positive displacement blower, so to me, that's the nail in the coffin of my decision to not get one.

Even if you shift at 7000 the boss is a good investment. It does make more peak power over 5500 vs. the standard intake. The standard intake starts to drop power around 6850,the boss carries it to about 7500 but like I said, it carries a higher number over to 7500.

 

[kystang615]

Well i went ahead and orderd the OR X...

 

[808muscle]

Save cash for the blower!

 

[squidzx6]

Interesting thread great read