True Trac issue??? Need some opinions

Konablue10Gt

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Hey everyone, Im looking for some insight on the True Trac differental.

I did my DD and searches before purchasing the unit, but now am concerned I made the wrong choice.

I installed it in my 2011 5.0 shopcar with 3.73 gears. The car makes 500 rwhp, is a stick and has been in the high 1.4's for 60 foots.

The problem is that with the new differental installed, the car is very unstable at the track. It launches pretty straight, but as soon as I powershift 1-2 or 2-3 the car with turn hard left or hard right for no reason. Its scary enough for me to abort the runs and change my drawers.

I have been dragracing for over 15 years in primarily stick cars and have never experienced this. I checked all of the obvious stuff, equal tire pressure, suspension components, track surface, driver error( im not yanking the wheel inbetween shifts) ect, ect. But everything points me back to the differental.

FWIW the car never did this with the factory trac-lok and the differental has been the only change made to the car.

Has anyone else experienced this?

I appreciate any feedback!!!

Thanks

Adam
 
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gtcs07

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Is the back of the car stepping out or does it feel like it's actually pushing the front over? I have a true track with 4.10s and I've never had this issue.
 

Konablue10Gt

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Its def the rear of the car causing it. It feels like there is no panhard bar, and the rear is just floating under the car.

I drive it on the street quite a bit too and have never felt it on the street tires.

My guess is that on the slicks its transfering power back and forth to the rear tires causing it to steer the car.

Thanks
 

94tbird

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happened to me once on the track. every time i hit the gas pedal, the car would veer left. if i took my foot off the gas pedal, the car would straighten out. did it on 2 passes at the track, then never again.

3 years and many track passes later, the diff got stuck in a locked position and would bind gonig around turns and make awful popping noises.


I am now running a wavetrac diff and couldn't be happier. The warranty also covers competition use, ie drag and road/autocross racing whereas the Tru Trac specifically states no warranty if used in any type of competition use. Personally the extra $$ was worth it to me. I now have a truly bullet proof rear end setup.

www.wavetrac.net

• 1100RWHP limit
• Innovative:
Patent pending Wavetrac® design automatically improves grip in low traction conditions. This feature is truly innovative and unlike any other torque biasing diff design.
• Superior Materials:
9310 steel gears run in case-hardened billet steel bodies. ARP® fasteners used throughout.
• Maintenance Free:
As supplied new, the Wavetrac® differential will perform a lifetime of service without maintenance or rebuilds.
• Customizable:
If desired, you can alter the diff’s behavior to suit your needs using optional components.
• Limited LIFETIME Warranty:
All Wavetrac® differentials include a transferable, Limited Lifetime Warranty.
 

stkjock

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on the KISS principle - have you checked all the rear suspension components for damage?
 

thunderstang

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I had an issue with mine one night at the track. It just felt like the rear end was moving around on me. Looking at the control arms everything looked good, but knowing that something was wrong I started to take stuff apart. What I found was on my left LCA the rear poly bushing was split all the way across. Easy fix.
 

94tbird

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I had an issue with mine one night at the track. It just felt like the rear end was moving around on me. Looking at the control arms everything looked good, but knowing that something was wrong I started to take stuff apart. What I found was on my left LCA the rear poly bushing was split all the way across. Easy fix.

That was my thought exactly when I had the issue myself, but all bushings checked out
 

confuzed

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If it's the eaton style with all the little slider gears (or whatever ya call em), toss it. When you shift it'll slightly unload the diff. Then try to lock back, making it pull. Auto car won't have that problem with it tho. Just my experience with em. Put the ole traction lock back or spool.
 

rojizostang

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If it's the eaton style with all the little slider gears (or whatever ya call em), toss it. When you shift it'll slightly unload the diff. Then try to lock back, making it pull. Auto car won't have that problem with it tho. Just my experience with em. Put the ole traction lock back or spool.

i haven't encountered any problems
 

confuzed

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i haven't encountered any problems

You show detroit tru-trac, that's why I Was specific about the Eaton one. They are different.
.PSSS, i do need to correct myself. i was comparing the torsen style(one i had problems with) to detroit tru trac. they are both on same design but torsen will not hold up well under hi HP drag use. especially a stick car.
 
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Blackblurr2007

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I have not had any problems, but mine is an auto! 1.37 60ft 9.20s @ 150.71mph... =)
 

jodadejss06gt

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I think my clutches are worn out in my rear. I'm trying to figure out what I want to do. I don't drag race a lot but recently i've been putting down good hooks, so I don't want something that is going to shit out on me. Adam did you ever get this straightened out?
 

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