Turbo Saleen S281

[JeremyH]

Drain is gravity, crankcase pressure(ensure the vent lines and breather etc are large enough to prevent excess crankcase pressure under boost), windage and oil in the pan will slow the flow of oil back into the pan. Increasing pressure in the center cartridge from the oil feed, causing seal leakings, smoking issues etc. Drain should be 1/2" to 1" from the top on the foward part of the pan, either the front or the front sides where oil doesnt sit.

 

[Bobby]

agreed. also the sensor want work properly. it is suppose to be in the oil to let you know when it is low. this way you will always see oil coming back into the pan even if you are low on oil. bad design.

 

[retfr8flyr]

Listen to Jeremy, the drain on our 3v's is one of the biggest problems with turbo kits. The oil pressure and flow on the 3v makes the drain critical. You can't have a large enough drain line and it can't be too straight of a drop to the pan. You need to realize the drain is just gravity fed as opposed to the pressurized oil coming into the turbo. You want it coming into the front of the pan with as few bends as possible and no level sections.

I can't think of a much worse place to try and return oil to the pan then the one shown in that picture. The reason it's was called an oil level sensor is that the oil level is supposed to be above that port. Then when it dropped below that level it would signal low oil quantity. You would be trying to return your drain oil into the pan against pressure of the oil in the pan. In fact the oil in the pan would probably travel part way up the line, until it was level with the pan quantity.

I upgraded my setup to oil less turbos because I got tired of fighting the oil problems on mine.


Earl

 

[Saleen S281]

Drain is gravity, crankcase pressure(ensure the vent lines and breather etc are large enough to prevent excess crankcase pressure under boost), windage and oil in the pan will slow the flow of oil back into the pan. Increasing pressure in the center cartridge from the oil feed, causing seal leakings, smoking issues etc. Drain should be 1/2" to 1" from the top on the foward part of the pan, either the front or the front sides where oil doesnt sit.

Ok, i get what you're saying, thanks!

 

[Saleen S281]

On the upside, i guess the sensor would let me know if the turbo is dry right?

 

[Dillon Dollar]

if you build a boss block i can give you a good deal on a set of pistons

 

[Saleen S281]

Listen to Jeremy, the drain on our 3v's is one of the biggest problems with turbo kits. The oil pressure and flow on the 3v makes the drain critical. You can't have a large enough drain line and it can't be too straight of a drop to the pan. You need to realize the drain is just gravity fed as opposed to the pressurized oil coming into the turbo. You want it coming into the front of the pan with as few bends as possible and no level sections.

I can't think of a much worse place to try and return oil to the pan then the one shown in that picture. The reason it's was called an oil level sensor is that the oil level is supposed to be above that port. Then when it dropped below that level it would signal low oil quantity. You would be trying to return your drain oil into the pan against pressure of the oil in the pan. In fact the oil in the pan would probably travel part way up the line, until it was level with the pan quantity.

I upgraded my setup to oil less turbos because I got tired of fighting the oil problems on mine.


Earl

Ok, thanks for your input, I might have to just get it going the way its designed and change it later if I start having problems. I'll ask JR Granatelli about this and see what he thinks. I do have plans on building a motor, just not sure what itll be at this point. Thanks though.

 

[Saleen S281]

Ok, Im not sure how to route the boost lines. I'm using a Hallman mbc, 6# spring in the wg, electric boost gauge. I think the boost gauge will get it's signal from a tee tapped into the line that hooks up to the fuel pressure regulator. The boost controller gets is feed from a pressurized source then to the side wg port? What about the bov?
Thanks in advance, v44 tial wg, hks bov.

 

[JeremyH]

Guage and bov needs a vac/boost source from the manifold.

You need a pressure only source to the mbc then from there to the side port on the wg. Top port open.

 

[Saleen S281]

Guage and bov needs a vac/boost source from the manifold.


You need a pressur eonly source to the mbc then from there to the side port on the wg. Top port open.

There's a plug on the turbo itself (compressor side of course) should i use that one?
For the boost/vac source, any suggestions?
Thanks!

 

[retfr8flyr]

What MBC do you have? Yes, you can use the port on the turbo for the boost source. Like Jeremy said, run the line from your source to the in port on your MBC and then from the out port on the MBC to the side port on your W/G.


Earl

 

[Saleen S281]

Hallman pro mbc, ok, thanks!

 

[retfr8flyr]

On the Hallman run the line from your turbo, or wherever you are tapping for your boost source, in the end of the controller and run the side port of the controller to the side port on the W/G.


Earl

 

[Saleen S281]

Yeah, that's what i figured, i bought it used so i took it apart and cleaned it. So i can see how it works.
What do you use for a boost/vac source?

 

[retfr8flyr]

I tapped into the intake pipe after the intercooler for mine because my turbos don't have a port and with twins I would rather read total boost after the intercooler. I have the EBoost2 now with dual solenoids but I originally had a Hallman also.


Earl

 

[JeremyH]

 

[Saleen S281]

Gotcha, opening a huge can of worms... Earl, you asked in modular forums how i was going to do about the pcv system, I'm 35 Saleen S281 btw. I responded that i would just do it however the instructions said to do it, well, that may change. The kit says to run a line from the pass side vent tube to the intake part that goes to the turbo, no big deal, I'll do that. The problem it's that my kit is missing the check valve that gets spliced between the stock vent tube on the drivers side. I can call GMS and buy it, $45 plus shipping, don't want to do that if i don't have to, a bit pricey for what it is imo. The kit did come with a breather that assuming the previous owner used on the drivers side and just capped the port on the intake manifold. Can I do this or should i buy the check valve?

 

[JeremyH]

If you run a breather on one side you need to run one on the other side. Then you dont have to worry about oil vapor being sucked in by the turbo and oil collecting in your coldside and getting on the maf etc. That kit out of the box doesn't have the best design. Is it setup for drawthru or blowthru?

 

[Saleen S281]

Blowthrough, ok , I could also go with a catch can with a breather that connects to both vent tubes on the can covers right?

 

[DRock]

ok i have been watching your build and am really excited to see the outcome.

1 question though. Why are you repping 281 motorsports in your sig?